The only reliable method I've found for measuring mpg is the tried and true means of filling up, resetting the trip, driving till warning light, filling back up noting mileage and gallons and dividing mileage by gallons.

 

MM,
I know this is more in line with the AP on Turbo thread.

I still having the Extreme Richness @/near 100 Gm/S.
plugged the water/meth line. The BOV has no way to open. I looked at the plunger seat and it tight and seals againg the plunger.

Could it be turbulance from the outside arccordian Cold Air pickup hitting the MAF? I have ONE Screen before the MAF...
Oh I also changed the MAF out, did a reset and tried again. was able to reproduce the bog.

I'll take the CA tube off that connects to the K&N MAF tube tonight and see.

If thats not it,,,, any ideas?
I checked the couplers and all are tight. manifold bolts are torqued to spec. manifold hoses are all connected...

 

Well, on your setup, air is going somewhere.
As soon as you get anywhere near positive manifold pressure, the MAF reading jumps into the several pounds of boost range.

 

I've read 90% of this thread and I have a question I don't think has been asked before.

Would installing larger injectors for a NA Renesis have any impact at all? I'm thinking along the lines of adjusting the timing of the fuel injectors. More fuel in shorter time to get a better boom.

 

you have less control over larger injectors. think of it like a squirt gun vs fire hose. If you don't need more fuel delivery, you gain nothing from the swap.

 

If your current injectors can give you ideal injection the option of providing more would be waste uless you can provide it with more air to mix with it.

 

This is just silly.
Adjusting the "timing" of the injectors?

 

Well it sure as hell is not going where we want it !

 

Why so silly? I see significant gains advancing injection timing and extending injection duration on my diesel engine. Are the RX-8 injectors not electronically controlled or am I just spark plug stupid? Concept would be the same.

 

what kind of car is your diesel in? Is it a direct inject diesel?

 

It just doesn't work that way in a gasoline injected motor.
I'm not going to type out a whole explanation of EFI, so just do a search on the subject.

 

I want to AP my car. i was at the dealership today and my friend works there. i like my warranty... he said you can kiss it goodbye as soon as the AP is programmed. How true is that? Anyone had any problems with it?

 

First of all, they have no way of knowing you have it or use it.
When you go in to the dealer, just uninstall it.
Second, it does nothing to your car that will damage or modify it physically.
The only thing it will do is eventually destroy your CAT.
Unfortunately, that is why Mazda has crippled the performance in the first place - to make the CAT live up to Draconian EPA standards.
Of course, there are several ways to deal with that eventuality.

 

Like take the sucker off!

 

depends on your dealer. There are very few mods on my car that don't void warranty, but I have never been hassled over it.

Like Jeff said, worse case, hit UNINSTALL and your car is back to exactly the way it was prior.

 

Have you made the "UNINSTALL" video yet Jeef?
I actually showed my AP to a couple of Mazda Engineers. They thought it was great.

 

It's like the military...

Don't ask, don't tell.

 

Here's some fuel economy data. Sorry for no non-AP baseline. I didn't start collecting data until after I started flashing Jeff's maps.

All entries are PURE interstate highway driving... one or two stops, at most (pee/coffee breaks mostly).

All driving consisted of 70mph to 80mph average between Pottstown, PA, and Sevierville, TN.

 

That is some killer mileage.
If you were feeling adventurous, you could uninstall the AP for a few days and see what your mileage is like.

 

I just checked a couple of the dedicated fuel economy threads and I'd say my numbers are definitely high end "outliers"

The trick is go with a top tier fuel, fill up immediately before entering the highway, make as few stops as possible, use cruise control between 70-80 mph, and run as much of the tank as possible. Effeciency increases significantly the longer you can keep her constant on the road.

 

Also, because of the 50 - 75 g/sec economy tuning I've put in the AccessPORT, you are burning 15%+ less fuel at those speeds in 6th gear.

 

So...this brings up a good question...I've got to finish my break-in so I can take the car on a drive from TX to CA...

Can you possibly create a "economy" map for long haul cruising such as this?

 

25 mpg is pretty damn economical for the RX8 in my book! I think part of Jeff's point is that his base maps have an economy factor of sorts built into them just by providing for a more effecient high end map.

The above data was collected over 2 round trips consisting of approximately 2,400 miles total. During the course of the trips I put in a smidge over a quart of oil... started off full and ended up full. I'm assuming this is also a bit better than what we'd get stock. I REALLY like the idea of my rotors getting extra lube

 

Yeah, the only caveat to the economy tuning is that the calibration is the proper one for your car.
That means, get the car up to 4200 RPM or so in 4th, hold it at that RPM for at least 20 seconds and look at your AFR (equivalence).
If it is below 14:1, I need to adjust your injector scaling a bit.
This is especially the case if you are running one of the "b" series calibrations.

 

Extra lube is always a good thing...can never have enough lube...never...

heh