i have it... and its pretty... ummm yeah there are all these maps... what one do i use?

 

Page one

 

yes.... ive read page one.... never underestimate the stupidity of a man with a shiny new toy... the hosue could catch on fire and i wouldnt realize it for hours to come...

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...00&postcount=1

read this, and if you have any trouble pm me and i'll help ya

 

Well, I installed the base _0 map. I drove around the block, but I wasn't quite sure what I was looking for. I had the readout on the stated page and it was reading -0 when I wasn't applying throttle then as I drove around the block it fluctuated always in the positive usually around 8 I believe. So I then loaded _1a as stated to do. Drove her around and saw less fluctuation and it was reading usually around 5 to 7. So I then loaded _2a and got I think less flux and a ave about more steady to 5. I then started to look at the long term and it read 3 most of the time. So I decided to drive around and eye ball the AFR. The off throttle was 20+ and the usual was around mid 14 but when I started to get on it a little I could see it go down to the 13s but then it started going into the 11s (I think the lowest I saw was 11.7 maybe it was a .2 couldn't eye ball that and the street at the same time). So when I saw that I reloaded _1a. After that the when I got up on it it would go down to mid 12s I think, except when I let off at high rpms and I would see it go as low as the 11s again, just for a split second and go back to 12 or 13s. Am I doing everything correctly? If not what did or am I doing wrong?

*Side note* heard a noise when I pulled up to my driveway again. I first heard it before I left on leave but not very much, but while I was on leave and driving down south for long periods of time starting off in first seemed like something wasn't right. Kinda like it's not grabbing and it sounds like when rubber is gripping but slipping slightly at low speeds. Well anyway, I can kind of hear the same noise when I am turning left as well, and it kinda sounds like the tires are just turning but I don't know as every other car I've had hadn't made that sound, not even my first 8. Any ideas? It seems to happen more when I have been driving for a long period of time and it's getting more profound now I think. Help

 

I started with 0.... went to -22 put in 2b ... went -1 to 15

put in 1b and drove it.. parked.. drove it soem more and now its between -7 and 7 the long term is at 1. is this my map?

 

Your giving it too much gas. Stop laying rubber.

 

The idea with STFT (Jeff please correct me if I've been doing this wrong all along) is as an initial configuration, start up your car from a cold state and connect your AP.

Drive around the block (gently) to get the engine warmed up and come back home.

Immediately after putting the car in park with the throttle at idle take a look at your STFT. If it is a negative number, apply a "b" determining which number based on the variance from zero. The same applies for a positive STFT but you use the "a" maps instead of the "b" ones.

Which numbered map to use depends on the variance from 0.

If your STFT hovers around -2 after your initial cruise around the block, in park/neutral with no throttle (idle) then apply the 1b map. That should get your STFT to 0. If it were +2 you'd apply the 1a map.

If your STFT hovers around +4 after your initial cruise then apply the 2a map.

Drive your car for a couple days. The idea is to get a number of drive cycles recorded by the car's computer. In doing so it is learning the dynamics of the new map and tuning your trims appropriately.

Once things have trimmed out you'll then want to focus on your Fuel Air mixture -- in the AP its founder under Equivilance Ratio. Under normal low to moderate throttle states it should be around 14.64. WOT (wide open throttle) -- 2nd and 3rd gears are good indicators for this -- you'll want to see your AFR drop to the 11 or so range.

That's as far as I've gotten.. hope it helps,

Shell

 

ShellDude - Thank you. That definiately makes more sense to me now. But my initial value was usually -0 when I would stop and put the car in nuetral/park brake applyed after I loaded the base map. But I will drive it for a few days and monitor the short trim when I first start the car and aftet the first initial drive. Thanks again!

 

I reloaded the base map _0 and am monitoring the short trim. I reloaded it today at lunch and when I first started the car it read between 5,6,7 usually ave on 5. Once it got warmed up I drove it and stopped it would sit around 1 to 2. Is it possible for the base map to be my map? I will continue to gently drive the car and monitor and see if there is any changes.

 

Not only possible, but desirable.

 

Jeff...

Any idea when you will have the AP ready for the '08? Really anxious to get one on the car

 

Good question.
We are working on European and JDM support right now.
I think that '08 support will be relatively easy since the '07 PCM is the same. Its just a matter of Cobb getting their hands on an '08 ROM.

 

Well, it's been ap (at) mazdamaniac.com every time someone else has asked, so I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's probably ap (at) mazdamaniac.com. But, I could be wrong, and he's changed it without saying anything because he doesn't have enough going on to keep him busy, and checking lots of different e-mail accounts and repeating the same contact info over and over would solve that problem.

 

I hope sooner then later Cause everybody knows I can't go FI with out my AP

 

Might be useful/relevant to people tweaking their AP's, to know if they have actually completed the minimum components of a "drive cycle" as far as the ECU is concerned. Correct me if I'm incorrectly applying this here....

Originally posted by Charles R. Hill:

"1) Start the engine and warm it up completely. This means allowing one full cooling fan cycle. During warm up, make sure all accessories are turned off.

2) Idle the engine for more than 30s after the cooling fan has stopped, then turn the engine off.

3) Re-start the engine and drive the car in the following fashion:
A) Idle the engine in neutral for more than 7m35s.
B) Drive in first or second gears, between 25-46 mph, for more than 30s.
C) Drive in second or third gears, between 38-62 mph, for more than 20s.
D) Drive in fourth or fifth gears, between 32-62 mph, for more than 2m.
It is said in the Mazda repair manual that this procedure allows the PCM to measure all that it needs to ensure no further CEL's unless there is an outstanding issue."

Although clearly making gradual adjustments over the course of a few days is better, theoretically it looks like you can do a complete "drive cycle" in ~10 minutes (not including a cool-down and warm-up).

EDIT/NOTE: This procedure was first described as a way to verify a CEL has been cleared and repaired, in that the car has covered a wide enough range of driving/engine conditions to say, "OK, everything's set". I'm making the (possibly incorrect) leap in saying that this is, by definition, a "drive cycle".

 

If you're turbo'd you should see 11's at WOT. If your NA they should be higher. 12.5-13.

My LTFTs are spot on with the V1c_0 map. idle LTFT=-1 and part throttle/WOT LTFT=2. So I'm leaving it there. Only problem left is my WOT AFR is 11.5 and Jeff is going to tweak my map to bring it up to his target.

 

Question:

Do I have to do the "drive cycle" every single time I load a new map?

I'm interested in buying a COBB for the economy map. Any idea what kinda mileage it gives?

I'm also keen to use MazdaManiac's offer to get a specialized map for my car (catless). What kinda extra power can I expect from this "specialized" map?

 

Same here. Hope you get yours tweaked quicker than me.....will hit the one month anniversary of my request on the 29th.

 

Only for tuning. Once you have the map dialed in, if you plan on switching between valet, economy, and power maps, you can do so without any further work.

 

Cel is gone, thanks for the help jeff

 

I know this doesn't show a lot but it illustrates AFR (Wide Range O2) for my 4AT up to 5K RPM (I had to back off due to traffic).

I'll try to put one up tomorrow that shows the AFR drop in the 5K to 7K RPM range. 12ish sounds about right for me.

 

For performance only, your money would be better spent in other areas. The AP is primary for tuning + information, power is secondary.

 

The combination of AP and midpipe is the most significant, short of forced induction.

It will go out next week.

 

Hey Jeff,

This was almost six days ago....what's going on? You don't like me or something??