God I love his answers

 

I am ready to order a data logger. I am tired of flying blind.

Would you guys agree that the EFIdude is a good choice?

 

I prefer the Scanalyzer (sp?), it gives you so many more options becauses it hooks to a laptop. However the drawback is that you have to have a laptop to log.

 

It's also $100 more.

I don't mind spending more if the added features are worth it.

 

SCANalyzer rocks.

 

i was also thinking about getting the efi dude one too..mostly for price, is it enough info to work with...esp if i wanted MM to see how the car runs?

 

From the man himself :P

Hey Jeff, I responded to you mass e-mail yesterday with three scans, sorry it was so late getting to you, the military has had me running all over the world here lately...

It looks to me to be running very rich, stock numbers kind of rich. When I was tuning the canzoomer I was aiming for 13.5 up to 6k and 13.3 the rest of the way so I'm not sure if I should go back to the 1a series. I was seeing much better numbers there but the LTFT was -12 where now its -10. I'm running the 1b-5b map as of now. Let me know what you think

 

Talk about cracks.....

That's how I got my new G8 GT.

Under the car the anti freeze was dripping for 15minutes and the water was still coming out of the drain plug for over an hour.

Poor Buick met its last day.

Now my DD is faster than my 8 ! 13.5 in the 1/4 mile. It either sucks gas @ 15 around town or 27 Freewy.

 

EFI dude is cheap, simple and logs a lot of data, it records 2 hrs of data and you don't even know its in the car, pretty convenient.

The only problem is Jeff's PC doesn't like the software required to run the EFI dude data viewer.

You will have to take screen shots of the data, or if you can convert it to a spread sheet, that will work too.

The EFI dude people are also very good people, they refunded my next day air shipping rate because because they are located in FL and said I would get it quick anyways. They did this without me saying anything, I just got a notice from Paypal telling me $10 was refunded.

 

Cool. I've already sent you an email to find out what you needed to make adjustments. I'll send you an excel file with my WOT 3rd gear AFRs.

 

I see on the site that it says that it won't work with JDM models...Why is that??? And what will work with mine? :S

 

Thanks

 

I have the EFIdude and it works well other then the fact that the viewer needs to download the drivers from the efi website. Not sure why MM's CPU can't download it. So the that's one limitation to it, the people you send it to may not be able to view your log. I spoke to them last week and they are working on a way to export the data to excel. E-mail them, the more people they see that want that function, may light a fire under their asses. The log it self can show upto 6 paremeters at the same time. Price is good to.

 

Give me two weeks and I will have the AP w/ Greddy kit and stock ignition system.

 

background...

in the past i experienced the 'marbles in a can' on a regular basis under certain conditions... when its very hot out, after sitting at a red light(heak soak) etc

today i had the opportunity to test out my flash... i sat the car idling until it heat soaked THOROUGHLY..... intake air temps got up to 161 degrees!!!

i was able to immediatly hammer the car with ZERO sign of marbles in a can, misfire, or detonation



happy time

 

I'll send them one tomorrow.

I wrote to EFI dude about converting the data.

Also I saw on their website that they aren't getting very much RX-8 business so they are now doing Porsche and Mercedes as well.

 

On a rotary engine, the leading plugs must ALWAYS fire before the trailing.
Dwell time is the charging period for the ignition system.
If the dwell is too short, the coils may fire weakly or not at all.
Should a shortened dwell time cause the leading coils to not fire but the trailing does fire, the results can be catastrophic detonation.

 

the problem with that situation is that even if my car was setup the way it was prior, it wasn't something that would happen each time i went into boost. It took a while before I had detonation. So to properly replicate and test would be a matter of driving around for a few weeks to see if your engine blew up or not. Not exactly something I'd volunteer for.

 

One way I can think of checking for the lead coil firing is getting a multimeter that has the capability to connect to a PC and connect it somewhere in the signal path after the coils. The PC could be used as a data logger so the capability to look back over your ignition firing and basically looking for a bad voltage spike should be rather simple. As for the trailing firing before the leading if you wanted to get crazy you could use two meters and just compare.

 

Or you could just scope the plug wires inductively.
Or, you could just use a timing light for the quick and dirty verification.
However, this is going to be a "once in a while" event for most people.
Of course, once in a while is all it takes to nuke a rotary...

 

Just got back from putting 1600 miles on the car since thurday. The car runs quite well except for the richness. am still very happy with the ap

 

So on a N/A car the coils work fine right???
so far everything has run fine for me no detonation for me..

Hmm

so turbo would be out of the picture to run on these mazsport coils???

Si o no?

 

No problem for N/A applications and they will support 380rwhp without an external ignition box! We delivered a 340rwhp @10psi car last week and a 356rwhp two weeks before that. They are excellent for turbo, you simply use your engine management system to dial in how much spark you need!

 

You guys switched to internal-ignitor coils?

 

I actually meant an MSD, Jacobs or similar unit Jeff.

Cards on the table...We were testing internal igniter coils last year and opted not to use off the shelf units because some of the cars at track days were having problems. We tested several OEM and even the MSD units, N/A and turbo, no thanks.