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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 10:14 PM
  #1226  
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Originally Posted by lennon
In you case is different, you blow it while you're over-reving it straight after oil change....... There're heaps of ways to blow it....
Can share some tips ar?
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 10:20 PM
  #1227  
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Originally Posted by clarencel
how much would it cost just to change the seals ?
Below RM4500 if housing still ok....
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 10:36 PM
  #1228  
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BTW lennon, do you use 2T?
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 10:43 PM
  #1229  
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Originally Posted by csl
Can share some tips ar?
1)Look at the compression first...... New engine can get 100 KPA of compression, old engine that has 75 KPA still consider ok...... Last time Wood's engine reaches 50 KPA but no blow, he choose to rebuilt the engine wisely....... So he pay less...

2)Look for the air-fuel ratio, do a dyno..... 12.5 AF is considered normal, Amemiya's remap spec say 13.5 AF(but still consider risky, becos our petrol is low grade compare to Jap, easy to face knocking)...... 14 AF is ......

3)Check oil metering pumps condition, carbon can clog the hose...... If OMP not working, then no lubrication.....

4)Try pre-mix, it can help further lubrication..... Ask Goober for more info..... Some may not agree, but wth, i gonna do that later...

5)Rev it once a while to get rid carbon.....

6)Run in engine properly..... You need luck in choosing second hand car.....

Last edited by lennon; Jun 18, 2007 at 10:46 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 11:28 PM
  #1230  
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yes and most importantly, don't trust the milage on your cluster.
It's probably altered.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 03:40 AM
  #1231  
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Originally Posted by lennon
I calculated RM11,500 (apex seals, gasket, 2 NEW rotor housings, 1 NEW middle section housing, 1 NEW rear housing and labour) without shipment and flight..... If Ah Choy gonna get more from you, you might just ask for local help.......
lennon. if without the rear housing and middle housing how much it would be? if i got lucky and they are still ok. the air ticket + hotel would cost me at least 2k

ah choy just sold his 6MT to my friend here who blow his engine same day for RM10k only.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 04:21 AM
  #1232  
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wood! adrian! warm! i want eat penang, Japan street "Ko chung"!!!
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 05:42 AM
  #1233  
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Originally Posted by lennon
1)Look at the compression first...... New engine can get 100 KPA of compression, old engine that has 75 KPA still consider ok...... Last time Wood's engine reaches 50 KPA but no blow, he choose to rebuilt the engine wisely....... So he pay less...

2)Look for the air-fuel ratio, do a dyno..... 12.5 AF is considered normal, Amemiya's remap spec say 13.5 AF(but still consider risky, becos our petrol is low grade compare to Jap, easy to face knocking)...... 14 AF is ......

3)Check oil metering pumps condition, carbon can clog the hose...... If OMP not working, then no lubrication.....

4)Try pre-mix, it can help further lubrication..... Ask Goober for more info..... Some may not agree, but wth, i gonna do that later...

5)Rev it once a while to get rid carbon.....

6)Run in engine properly..... You need luck in choosing second hand car.....

With pre-mix, will it be more carbon or less or the same? It is my concern to try something out of the factory recommended way.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 07:55 AM
  #1234  
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come come the boy....
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 08:11 AM
  #1235  
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My question will be. does removing the catalyc converter reduce carbon deposit? it reduce the back pressure.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 08:29 AM
  #1236  
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found this in the forum. LOL!

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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 07:59 PM
  #1237  
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Originally Posted by theboy
lennon. if without the rear housing and middle housing how much it would be? if i got lucky and they are still ok. the air ticket + hotel would cost me at least 2k

ah choy just sold his 6MT to my friend here who blow his engine same day for RM10k only.
If you don't want those housing, minus RM4500...... I got 2nd hand rear housing and my used middle housing.... actually....
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 08:02 PM
  #1238  
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Originally Posted by csl
With pre-mix, will it be more carbon or less or the same? It is my concern to try something out of the factory recommended way.
Pre-mix is rotary expert's recommendation....
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 10:04 PM
  #1239  
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From: PJ, MY
Originally Posted by lennon
Pre-mix is rotary expert's recommendation....
While it is, a member here had some issues with pre-mixing. (though others don't)

Read more here:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aftermarket-performance-modifications-23/hold-pre_mixing_surprise-find-108224/ . The first post by OD was referring to this thread:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aftermarket-performance-modifications-23/interest-fix-fuel-starvation-issues-105156/
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 11:27 PM
  #1240  
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Originally Posted by lennon
If you don't want those housing, minus RM4500...... I got 2nd hand rear housing and my used middle housing.... actually....
bro ah choy quote me already. RM11500 with labour, without hotel and ticket. so if take out engine see those 2 rosak or not. if rosak then change. if not then its a cheap repair i guess.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 01:24 AM
  #1241  
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theboy, good luck fixing your 8.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 02:25 AM
  #1242  
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Buy a new engine la. Few K different only. You usable old parts can keep for spare.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 02:55 AM
  #1243  
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wah bro if my middle engine housing and rear engine housing no scratch. then i only need to pay around 8500 for the whole thing ler. where as new engine RM20000 ler. big different lo.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 06:11 AM
  #1244  
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Originally Posted by theboy
wah bro if my middle engine housing and rear engine housing no scratch. then i only need to pay around 8500 for the whole thing ler. where as new engine RM20000 ler. big different lo.
If like that, you won't be so confident to ram your car next time wor.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 08:19 AM
  #1245  
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Originally Posted by theboy
bro ah choy quote me already. RM11500 with labour, without hotel and ticket. so if take out engine see those 2 rosak or not. if rosak then change. if not then its a cheap repair i guess.
Same amount as i expected...... you better pray middle and rear housing is ok.....

Last edited by lennon; Jun 20, 2007 at 08:29 AM.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 08:25 AM
  #1246  
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Originally Posted by csl
If like that, you won't be so confident to ram your car next time wor.
It's at least can get another half engine, and much faster no-time waste than Japan.... Ah Choy had built hundreds of 13bt for last 15 years and dozens of Renesis...... So far no bad feedback......
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 08:58 AM
  #1247  
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Originally Posted by lennon
It's at least can get another half engine, and much faster no-time waste than Japan.... Ah Choy had built hundreds of 13bt for last 15 years and dozens of Renesis...... So far no bad feedback......
Well, I don't know how to rebuilt an engine. But put a used part together with new parts, the old parts will reach its life span faster than the new one. So, the next rebuilt will be sooner than an all new engine. So, you may save for the initial cost. But may pay more (2 times workmanship $$) at the end. If buy a new engine, any usable old parts can be sell for recovering some cost. Of cause, rebuilding the engine without changing any parts other than seals/o-ring/gasket is different story.

* in theory
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 09:42 AM
  #1248  
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Originally Posted by csl
Well, I don't know how to rebuilt an engine. But put a used part together with new parts, the old parts will reach its life span faster than the new one. So, the next rebuilt will be sooner than an all new engine. So, you may save for the initial cost. But may pay more (2 times workmanship $$) at the end. If buy a new engine, any usable old parts can be sell for recovering some cost. Of cause, rebuilding the engine without changing any parts other than seals/o-ring/gasket is different story.

* in theory
thats what i was thinking at 1st. but in theory it is not as bad as what u think bro. cause the engine housing is protected by the rotor ring. so worn out is minimal. well, rotor housing sure need change. seal and gasket. then its good to get 8.5
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 10:37 AM
  #1249  
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Originally Posted by csl
Well, I don't know how to rebuilt an engine. But put a used part together with new parts, the old parts will reach its life span faster than the new one. So, the next rebuilt will be sooner than an all new engine. So, you may save for the initial cost. But may pay more (2 times workmanship $$) at the end. If buy a new engine, any usable old parts can be sell for recovering some cost. Of cause, rebuilding the engine without changing any parts other than seals/o-ring/gasket is different story.

* in theory
It seems you don't know which parts to change when rebuild...... Do you know that when you rebuilt, you usually need two new rotor housing, a set of apex seal, corner seals and water gasket, that's all...... Those are common change items, side seals and intake & exhaust housing can still be reused..... If rebuilt wasn't good enuff, why we don't all just get new engine, why RE-Amemiya, RotorMaster, Mazfix, FEED and KS rebuilt so many engines a year?????? Rebuilt is so freaking common, maybe you don't realised....

Last edited by lennon; Jun 20, 2007 at 07:25 PM.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 01:05 PM
  #1250  
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I agree with kean..... Rebuilts are very common...... Very seldom ppl buy completely new engines.... Not saying buying a new engine is not good.... of course if can afford its good, BUT...... its just not nessesary if all u need are 2 new rotor housings, apex seals, corner seals. side seals (if needed), overhaul kit (gasket set)......

And yeah, RE-Amemiya, Knight Sports, FEED etc etc etc all rebuild engines...... Its just more cost efficient.......
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