Adaptronic Select Rx-8 Standalone ECU
04-11-2012, 02:11 PM
#51
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
I read that too... it clears the CEL(s) on boot up if they are stored. This might present an issue for PA emissions as PA validates the DriveCyclesSinceLastCel(spl?) register.
This could also be the one thing that "drives" me to keep my AP with the base Cobb map loaded, assuming it doesn't interfere with the Adaptronic.
Otherwise it looks like I'll be running with my stock mid pipe 1 month out of each year.
This could also be the one thing that "drives" me to keep my AP with the base Cobb map loaded, assuming it doesn't interfere with the Adaptronic.
Otherwise it looks like I'll be running with my stock mid pipe 1 month out of each year.
04-11-2012, 03:49 PM
#52
Damn. I was thinking it wouldnt pass PA for that reason. Then I read this post and got excited. I figured NY would have similiar OBD scan test for emissions.
I have a Pettit s/c so I cant go back to a stock tune for the yearly test. I need the extra fuel for the motor. Its just running really rich for safety. 12/17 MPG is hurting with the gas prices going up.
For those wondering about how well the units work; I sent one of these boxes out to replace a Haltech on a greddy turbo Rx-8 a few weeks ago to a NY shop. Problem with the haltech was a slight random miss, which would throw an error code, and the car wouldn't pass inspection. The car has since been tuned with the adaptronic, shop owner is very happy. Car runs and drives like OEM, and no check engine lights. I also have 5 more in the field out of the country with happy owners too.
I have a Pettit s/c so I cant go back to a stock tune for the yearly test. I need the extra fuel for the motor. Its just running really rich for safety. 12/17 MPG is hurting with the gas prices going up.
04-11-2012, 04:14 PM
#53
Keeping the AP would likely be a good idea for emissions. I recently passed our emissions here that are quite strict with the stock CAT and the AP to block the CEL's
I will not pass without the readiness monitors being set...so you need to be able to set those...and they all entail more than one drive cycle to complete...as well as a specific set of circumstances to set. It isn't mileage derived either...you can drive for days or weeks and not set the monitors under incorrect circumstances
I will not pass without the readiness monitors being set...so you need to be able to set those...and they all entail more than one drive cycle to complete...as well as a specific set of circumstances to set. It isn't mileage derived either...you can drive for days or weeks and not set the monitors under incorrect circumstances
04-13-2012, 12:17 AM
#54
Boostin'
Thread Starter
Nitrous Answer;
There are two ways to do it. Both require setting up a digital input. Digital inputs 7 and 8 both appear on a header inside the ECU. Let's use digital input 7. That means that we need to open the ECU, connect a wire to that header and run the wire out through the hole in the endplate next to the loom connector. This wire goes to a switch, and the other wire goes to GND. It could go to the nitrous relay so it happens automatically - in that case we need need a way to switch it on - more on that later.
1) Overall enrich/retard function:
Set up the digital input (7 or 8) as type "Enrich / Retard". Under "Special functions", there is a setting for the percentage enrichment and degrees of ignition retard when the switch is active
2) 2nd map function:
Set up the digital input (7 or 8) as type "Alternate map select". Under "Tuning Modes", instead of selecting "1 = MAP, 2 = unused", select "1 = MAP, 2 = MAP, digital input to select #2). Then the ECU will look at fuel and ignition map 1 when the switch is off, and fuel and ignition map 2 when the switch is on.
If you want to have a separate arming function for the nitrous, eg only above 3000 RPM and above 80% throttle, you can select:
1) Select a logic only aux output that's currently unused - eg Green LED (which is #15) - and set that as TPS, 75/80, and Orange LED (which is #16) - and set that as RPM 2800 / 3000 - then set an unused aux output (eg aux output 5 comes out on the header) as AND with the output channels being 15 and 16. That means that aux output 5 will come on when TPS is > 80% and RPM > 3000 RPM.
2) Connect this output to one side of the nitrous switch
3) Connect the other side of the nitrous switch to the negative of a relay coil
4) Connect the positive side of the relay coil to +12V ignition power
5) The contacts of the relay then switch power to your nitrous solenoid
6) Connect the negative side of the relay coil (which already connects to the switch) to the digital input on the ECU.
This means that the digital input will be pulled to ground only when the output from the ECU is on (TPS > 80% and RPM > 3000), AND the nitrous switch is enabled.
There are two ways to do it. Both require setting up a digital input. Digital inputs 7 and 8 both appear on a header inside the ECU. Let's use digital input 7. That means that we need to open the ECU, connect a wire to that header and run the wire out through the hole in the endplate next to the loom connector. This wire goes to a switch, and the other wire goes to GND. It could go to the nitrous relay so it happens automatically - in that case we need need a way to switch it on - more on that later.
1) Overall enrich/retard function:
Set up the digital input (7 or 8) as type "Enrich / Retard". Under "Special functions", there is a setting for the percentage enrichment and degrees of ignition retard when the switch is active
2) 2nd map function:
Set up the digital input (7 or 8) as type "Alternate map select". Under "Tuning Modes", instead of selecting "1 = MAP, 2 = unused", select "1 = MAP, 2 = MAP, digital input to select #2). Then the ECU will look at fuel and ignition map 1 when the switch is off, and fuel and ignition map 2 when the switch is on.
If you want to have a separate arming function for the nitrous, eg only above 3000 RPM and above 80% throttle, you can select:
1) Select a logic only aux output that's currently unused - eg Green LED (which is #15) - and set that as TPS, 75/80, and Orange LED (which is #16) - and set that as RPM 2800 / 3000 - then set an unused aux output (eg aux output 5 comes out on the header) as AND with the output channels being 15 and 16. That means that aux output 5 will come on when TPS is > 80% and RPM > 3000 RPM.
2) Connect this output to one side of the nitrous switch
3) Connect the other side of the nitrous switch to the negative of a relay coil
4) Connect the positive side of the relay coil to +12V ignition power
5) The contacts of the relay then switch power to your nitrous solenoid
6) Connect the negative side of the relay coil (which already connects to the switch) to the digital input on the ECU.
This means that the digital input will be pulled to ground only when the output from the ECU is on (TPS > 80% and RPM > 3000), AND the nitrous switch is enabled.
04-13-2012, 07:47 AM
#55
YES!!!!
So we can do this, will need extra parts and the ability to solder the ECU. I wonder if I can get a replacement OEM ECU to replace the modded one if needed. Even if this costs 2gs in parts it is still 4-6gs cheaper than going turbo. With this we can break that 75 shot wall if we don't have to permanently retard the timing.
Great news brother! I am officially stoked. We are going to start with a basic 50hp shot kit and keep that going while the ECU gets its work on. Very exciting times!
Nitrous is the cheaper option and getting it to be reliable without blowing **** up is BIG! We got our work cut out for us at WW, but it'll be worth it.
Thanks again for getting that info for us Turblown. Now to see some Nitrous projects on previous rotaries. I think an RX-7 at WW had a 125hp shot installed at one point, much to be learned.
So we can do this, will need extra parts and the ability to solder the ECU. I wonder if I can get a replacement OEM ECU to replace the modded one if needed. Even if this costs 2gs in parts it is still 4-6gs cheaper than going turbo. With this we can break that 75 shot wall if we don't have to permanently retard the timing.
Great news brother! I am officially stoked. We are going to start with a basic 50hp shot kit and keep that going while the ECU gets its work on. Very exciting times!
Nitrous is the cheaper option and getting it to be reliable without blowing **** up is BIG! We got our work cut out for us at WW, but it'll be worth it.
Thanks again for getting that info for us Turblown. Now to see some Nitrous projects on previous rotaries. I think an RX-7 at WW had a 125hp shot installed at one point, much to be learned.
04-16-2012, 12:28 PM
#57
Boostin'
Thread Starter
The Adaptronic allows you to control the OMP output. The OMP must remain electronically plugged with this ECU, unless you want to change to a cable driven throttle body and put up with a check engine light on.
The Adaptronic allows controls of the fans if you wire them into one of the PWM outputs( there are enough to control each fan individually). By default you cannot change the fan settings( plug and play harness).
You must open the aux ports before the secondaries stage. You have complete control over when the aux ports open close.
The Adaptronic allows controls of the fans if you wire them into one of the PWM outputs( there are enough to control each fan individually). By default you cannot change the fan settings( plug and play harness).
You must open the aux ports before the secondaries stage. You have complete control over when the aux ports open close.
This previous post is wrong. The OMP controls only work for S5/S6 Rx-7s. I am currently working on getting a program written for the Rx-8.
I am also getting some other specific Rx-8 functions implemented, that will help with fine tuning...
04-16-2012, 01:42 PM
#58
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
The Adaptronic itself is USB flash upgradable? How do underlying firmware updates get rolled out?
Also want to confirm it can co-exist with an AP on the Mazda ECU. If so then one would still have control of the OMP tables, correct?
Also want to confirm it can co-exist with an AP on the Mazda ECU. If so then one would still have control of the OMP tables, correct?
04-17-2012, 08:27 PM
#59
Boostin'
Thread Starter
The only thing that may be required is that you disable the fault clearing option in the Adaptronic while you're reflashing the factory ECU but that's about it.
I am still waiting on several ECUS to arrive to ship for anyone wondering. Some of got their units, several are still waiting. I have 3 extra being put into our inventory also..
On the 1st I am hitting the dyno with a adaptronic powered top mount car..
04-19-2012, 02:50 AM
#63
I will not pass without the readiness monitors being set...so you need to be able to set those...and they all entail more than one drive cycle to complete...as well as a specific set of circumstances to set. It isn't mileage derived either...you can drive for days or weeks and not set the monitors under incorrect circumstances
04-23-2012, 08:44 AM
#66
Boostin'
Thread Starter
Shell,
Check your PMs.
I am now being told in the 3 week range to get any more ECUs in. I will ship the same day they arrive. I have put 3 extra units on order to put on our shelves to avoid future delays..
Check your PMs.
I am now being told in the 3 week range to get any more ECUs in. I will ship the same day they arrive. I have put 3 extra units on order to put on our shelves to avoid future delays..
04-27-2012, 09:04 PM
#70
04-28-2012, 06:40 AM
#71
Registered
... For those that are an the fence about this ecu, i can safely say that its a great product, very user friendly, Nice and responsive to tuning etc.. All in all great buy for a great price.
Yea Erik, after some racing today. I will get back in the shop change your spring out so that we are not hitting 15psi and running out of fuel and stuff.
Thanks
Chip U
