It cuts fuel.

 

Ok so I have just had my car rebuilt with Atkins internals, full street port, using new d585 coils and 8.5mm leads, toyo decat and rear box baffles and air box walls removed from standard.

Now.....

Mazda edit + tactrix

Or

Versatune

To suit my engine and parts added/customised?

Looking for optimum safety and running day to day, whilst along side best performance for my mods.

Very little info for the seriesII and verstune but I have just stumbled across it myself.

 

Can one of you guys who are using VT validate that you have similar data from the basemap compared to what i have here w/ ME?

Series 2 (2009-2011) Base Map Data

Injector Scaling



Leading Timing



Trailing Timing



MAF Scaling

 

I will when I get home from work

 

much appreciated sir. If you could also get the OMP table that would be fantastic!!

 

OK here they are

 

awesome! How about the OMP? Sorry I am just validating that we have the same dataset

 

You're more than welcome. Definitely good to check it out.
And congrats on mod status!

 

Much appreciated sir.

One last question for the others in this thread. What is everyone reading for their idle maf voltage?

My car seems to sit at 1.18v ~ 4.9g/s ... looks like per all the tuning threads (putting maf scaling aside) we should be sitting closer to 1.21v ~ 5.5g/s

 

There should be 2 maps for the omp, would you mind to post the other one out as well?

Does vesatuner gives you access to all maps?

 

NYC, in ME i have 4 total oil injection maps:

Oil Injection (Load)
Oil Injection (Load) A?
Oil Injection (Throttle)
Oil Injection (Throttle) A

 

All that A stuff you guys are seeing - is that the limp mode I wonder?

 

I'm not sure ... the Oil Injection (Load) A? table has values almost 300% greater than that of the non-a ....

 

i know, but the throttle maps were all 0. so I think it's not the actual map it's something else.

Oil Injection Load A? is probably for the 2nd OMP pump. so just wanna make sure it IS the right one.

 

nah , it's just an order of the maps, like Map A, map B, map C, etc

the ? is when the coder wasn't sure if it is the right one.

but even if it doesn't have the ?, sometimes it could still be wrong, the Fan on temp on S2 is one great example, luckily I noticed it, and asked epifan to find the correct one.

yeah, that's why I gotta make sure it IS indeed the right map. Im leaving it alone for now and will check it out this coming Wednesday

 

Yup and i think the new definition file he gave me has been working quite well. I dont see my upper radiator hose temps get above 200F unlike before

Yup .. if there is anything I can do to help let me know.

 

Guys , I just finished installing a Greddy turbo kit onto my UK spec R3 and started her up today , install looks good so far , now onto tuning !
Idles at 15.7 but surges slightly .

 

How did you get on with the sump ?

 

With the sump itself I did the same as the guy in PR ( cut off the excess and welded in an aluminium plate , with the sump cover I left it original as it were ,just made an adapter to mate it with the sump I modified . Fits really good, no leaks so far .

 

At this point in time, is there any prevailing opinion for MazdaEdit vs. VersaTuner? Any advantages to using an Openport 2.0 with either vs. the DrewTech Mongoose cable that comes with the VersaTuner package deal? The Mongoose looks like the more professional-grade bit of hardware.

 

Honestly we haven't heard feedback from too many people that use VersaTuner. It was great when i was testing it before it was released, but I think only 1 or 2 people are actually using it here. MazdaEdit has been getting more feedback here. Great software, but I wish the developer was easier to get a hold of.

 

I just contacted a shop around here called tach motor works. They told me they could tune my car with an AEM FIC (fuel/ignition controller). Does anybody know if this would be a good option? My current mods include catless midpipe to RacingBeat CB.

 

Why bother, for the price you can just get MazdaEdit w/ the flashing hardware. No sense in wasting your time and effort with a piggyback when you can just try something that has been proven to work.

 

Have you had a dyno with Air/Fuel Ratio readout? That would tell you how close you are now. If you are not close, then you have a baseline for future changes to be sure they improve performance.

 

I haven't dyno'd the car yet, but thanks for the tip