Aggressive Wheel Fitment Thread
12-26-2012, 09:46 PM
That Duralast jack is a piece of ****. Damn near dropped the 8 when I used it. Returned it within 5 hrs of purchase, granted it was on sale for $19.99. 2 ton rating my ***.
12-26-2012, 10:34 PM
Danny Rotstein
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12-26-2012, 10:39 PM
Danny Rotstein
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I'll repost this since we're on a new page now. 
Yeah I have the Rezax I. I'm not gonna rock the waffle though. So they'll look similar to a vs-xx without it. AND I MADE PROGRESS TODAY. Actually did some test fitting. I'll post the few pics I took.
Turns out when I measured I forgot to include 1/2" for the face (noob mistake) the the lips I ordered are technically too big. Fortunately It didn't make a difference in front, I can still run the 18x10.5 -4, rather than 10 +4 like I had anticipated. The 4" front lips came in so I was able to test direct size, no issue there.
Thank God the rears were special order and haven't shipped yet because if I was stuck with those 5.5" lips I'd be running a 18x12 -4 rather than the 11.5 +4 like I thought it would be. So I'm going with a 5" lips instead to make it right again. Good thing the lips mount over the faces on these wheels so if measured from the front they're still about 5.5".
So lets start with the rear fitment: Since I had no lips to test with the actual size I used a Work Meister S1 in 18x10 0 offset with 255/40 tires. Car is on stands, so the wheel is jacked up touching the fender, measuring to the lip of the wheels from the fender was about 48mm of poke. But, these wheels are about 15mm less aggressive then what mine will be. But then we also have to consider camber; on the ground my rear camber is -4.5, jacked up like this its probably a little less, close to -4 or even lower. I'll be running -6 in the rear on the ground so that new difference should take care of about 25mm of poke. So it would be 48mm -25mm from the camber, then +15mm for my wheels being more aggressive. That puts my rears to poke about 40mm from the fender when sitting on the ground. Keep in mind I'll also be running 255/35, smaller sidewall then the tire pictured. Realistically, I can probably pull my fenders about another 15mm without repainting, that's the plan. I'll have about a 25mm, an inch, of poke from the pulled fender
Moving on to the front, I have to apologize for not taking a picture of the wheel jacked up. This pic is just of it mounted without the jack underneath it. but for the sake writing a **** ton I'll paraphrase: After a similar pull in front it will poke as much as the rear, and that was the goal. Having different amounts of pull and poke looks off, as with running really different amount of camber from front to rear. I don't plan on running more than -5 degrees of camber in front.
And here's just a shot of the fronts with the 4" lip. Only being held on by 4 bolts since the faces are being refinished. They look massive! Can't wait for the rears!
Yeah I have the Rezax I. I'm not gonna rock the waffle though. So they'll look similar to a vs-xx without it. AND I MADE PROGRESS TODAY. Actually did some test fitting. I'll post the few pics I took.
Turns out when I measured I forgot to include 1/2" for the face (noob mistake) the the lips I ordered are technically too big. Fortunately It didn't make a difference in front, I can still run the 18x10.5 -4, rather than 10 +4 like I had anticipated. The 4" front lips came in so I was able to test direct size, no issue there.
Thank God the rears were special order and haven't shipped yet because if I was stuck with those 5.5" lips I'd be running a 18x12 -4 rather than the 11.5 +4 like I thought it would be. So I'm going with a 5" lips instead to make it right again. Good thing the lips mount over the faces on these wheels so if measured from the front they're still about 5.5".
So lets start with the rear fitment: Since I had no lips to test with the actual size I used a Work Meister S1 in 18x10 0 offset with 255/40 tires. Car is on stands, so the wheel is jacked up touching the fender, measuring to the lip of the wheels from the fender was about 48mm of poke. But, these wheels are about 15mm less aggressive then what mine will be. But then we also have to consider camber; on the ground my rear camber is -4.5, jacked up like this its probably a little less, close to -4 or even lower. I'll be running -6 in the rear on the ground so that new difference should take care of about 25mm of poke. So it would be 48mm -25mm from the camber, then +15mm for my wheels being more aggressive. That puts my rears to poke about 40mm from the fender when sitting on the ground. Keep in mind I'll also be running 255/35, smaller sidewall then the tire pictured. Realistically, I can probably pull my fenders about another 15mm without repainting, that's the plan. I'll have about a 25mm, an inch, of poke from the pulled fender
Moving on to the front, I have to apologize for not taking a picture of the wheel jacked up. This pic is just of it mounted without the jack underneath it. but for the sake writing a **** ton I'll paraphrase: After a similar pull in front it will poke as much as the rear, and that was the goal. Having different amounts of pull and poke looks off, as with running really different amount of camber from front to rear. I don't plan on running more than -5 degrees of camber in front.
And here's just a shot of the fronts with the 4" lip. Only being held on by 4 bolts since the faces are being refinished. They look massive! Can't wait for the rears!
12-26-2012, 10:42 PM
12-26-2012, 10:53 PM
Yeah its safe to say those small jacks suck big time. I had the same problem with a 2 1/4 ton craftsman sears jack. The 8 used to literally drop slowly as I was lifting it. Now I have a huge 2.5 ton low profile jack with rapid pump from Harbor Freight (got it because it was on sale). Lifts the car quick and flawlessly. Wonder if I can still return the craftsman now
lol
12-26-2012, 11:46 PM
OMGITM!
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Are Rezax sandwich mount? If not, face won't effect width.
Are you measuring from bead seat -> bead seat, or from edge of lip -> edge of barrel?
Keep up the rad work, looking forward to results.
12-27-2012, 01:19 AM
Danny Rotstein
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Thanks a lot Matt, and yeah they are sandwich mounted, which is nice since I get more lip. The wheels themselves should be done within the next few weeks or so pending arrival of the rear lips. Once I rewire the harness my front tire tore though (hopefully I motivate myself to do that tomorrow), I'll be able to drive my car to the shop to start the pulling.
12-28-2012, 11:17 AM
![mike[piston eater]'s Avatar](https://www.rx8club.com/avatars/mike%5Bpiston-eater%5D-48728.gif?dateline=1334247180)
For the torque specs I'd tighten all the bolts to 15ft/lbs then go around and retighten them all to 20ft/lbs, and don't forget to use red loctite. thats if you are reusing old hardware, with new hardware is fine with slightly lower torque specs around 12ft/lbs.
I did lots of research on rebuilding multi piece wheels before deciding and actually doing my own. I have had no problem been running them for over 7 months, countless trips to San Diego and two trips to northern California later, no issues yet. I did check them after 100 miles and none were out of spec.
I'm sure you will be fine with the bolts that is the easy part. sealing them is the bitch part hav to really rub it between the cracks an apply plenty. let them cure for 24 hours. Don't be frustrated if one of your wheels has a slight leak i think it happens to almost anyone.
12-28-2012, 09:30 PM
Danny Rotstein
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12-29-2012, 10:23 AM
Danny Rotstein
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12-29-2012, 11:10 PM
looking good danny, i'll tell you the front are not gonna be easy thing, lots of camber and forget about full lock...my +14 give me just enough rooms to full lock
12-29-2012, 11:37 PM
Danny Rotstein
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also remember your tire sidewall is gonna be significantly larger than mine!
also... give us more pictures.
12-30-2012, 07:46 AM
12-30-2012, 10:57 AM
Danny Rotstein
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