This actually does make a little since. When trying to ease it down to idle if i hold my foot barely on the throttle, it will idle at 1k or a smidge under all day long. but as soon as i take my foot off that extra bit, its toast.

 

yeah, your problem sounds the exact same as mine.

which plugs are you using? if i were you i would only replace the leading with some RX7 plugs. they are only $7 each. much easier to find and replace than the iridium ones. once you get your car fixed and tuned, then put the iridium ones in. the trailing ones don't really matter too much.

 

For plugs i am using a pair of NGK BUR9EQ-Ps in the lead position with a pair of RE9B-T in the trailing position. I put them in new before i tried to start the car.

 

actually several people (ray and dan at least) have mentioned the throttle. dan's last post mentioned making sure the tps is calibrated.

 

Sorry, must have missed it.

 

By "calibrated" what are you talking. I know that the TPS_CAL setting on the microtech is set as directed. Its set so that the first bar of the TPS indicator is lit up. If ther eis another calibratioin that i dont know about then yeah... this could be part of my issue for sure.

 

When you push on the accelerator pedal...you should see a smooth increase in throttle position indicated on the INTx....

No throttle and your engine won't have a clue what's happening at idle..or even if it is at idle...

All it will see is MAP..that can be the same at many load conditions

 

Agreed, nowwhen the car is running, there is a smooth increase of the throttle on the INT-X. When its not running and jsut sitting with the key forward. the first half of the throttle does not register on the INT-X. Is there some way to change this on the int-x or is there something that needs to be tested and replaced? Doesnt the Scanalyser show throttle position also? If i hook it up and it reads the throttle position fine, but the INT-x is not reading it correctly, then would hte problem be iwht the int-x?


ALso, the int- x is new ( now its out of its silver int-x box) so i woudl think the int-x is good. also, when this first started, i also tried starting it off the stock computer wiht no avail.

 

so wait. have you checked your spark yet? I thought you did that wayyy at the beginning?

 

I checked the spark at the coils by removing the plug wire off the coil and looking for spark, i had spark on all four. However, i had not checked it at the motor. There could be an issue with the plug wires so it may not be getting to the plug from the coil. So i am going to check it at the motor tonight. ..

That clear things up a bit?

 

YES!

I thought you did that, just wanted to check.

 

So have we moved away from the vac leak and onto injectors and ignition now?

Obviously this is starting to get old, even though it has had a major inpact on my post count haha

 

My money is still on vac leak.

 

You may still have a vac leak, or a stuck injector - but we gotta go one thing at a time. That is why you check ne thing before you start changing other things.....so we know there is no major vac leak based on your test, a small one will likely show up during tuning (if you have one) but it will still idle fine all else being equal.

 

How is the line to the lower fuel rail insulator? The one that controls the OMP squirters. it runs from the accordion to the insulator.

 

I originally forgot that line, but caught myself when i was hooking up vac lines and had to go back and install it. It now runs from the rail insulator (which i had to buy new) to the intake jsut infront of the MAF.

 

And all the vacuum lines are secure that go to the oil injectors?

Just checking because if you don't have enough vacuum lifting up those check valves on those injectors the engine will not start.

 

I will double check tonight.

 

Here are some pics to get everyone started :

These plugs were brand new when i put them in:









And here are some pics before i start tearing into it









Let me know your thoughts. I will be beakign this down again to mainly inspect everythign OMP related.

 

not sure why people are insisting on pics of the plugs. it is obviously a flooding issue caused by something else. of course your plugs are going to look like that.

 

people ask and i respond haha... thats all i can go off of now. working my way down to the injectors and OMP

 

Is that a check valve on that OMP line or just an adapter?

 

like i said. i have basically the same exact problem as you and i've been watching this thread like a hawk.

some things i found that didn't fix the problem:
coupler loose on the turbo inlet pipe. -tightened up
alternator nut loose. -tightened up
leaking transmission cooler lines. -hoses and clamps replaced

i would check your couplers on your turbo kit. i found one of mine loose and there may be others i haven't found yet. that could explain the rich condition. i believe it has been mentioned before too.

 

How long are you cranking it before you give up?

 

call me crazy but OMP line?