Gotta love the reliability; to the tune of $698.00
06-04-2008, 12:15 AM
#26
Lubricious
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...Well, he calls me back a few minutes ago and says they ran some test on the cat and it was performing below specs so they had to replace it. I asked him how that could be possible without a CEL and he sputtered out some BS about having to reset the computer. So, I asked him how it ran after the cat replacement and he said it ran fine all the way to redline but that it was likely due to the ECU reset and not the new cat. Can you believe this BS?
06-04-2008, 11:08 AM
#28
10000 RPM
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My car has been at the dealer for a solid week I should be getting it back to day. I took it there because my CEL was on and had bad hesitation through middle RPM range.
After reading this thread I realized I experienced the same problems driving my rx-8.
the Dealer first replaced the MAF to correct the CEL and the told me I was all set. I got in my car pulled out of the dealership and it fell flat on it's face. I don't even think they testdrove the car
. So after 3 more days they tell me I had one leading plug fail and one trailing plug fail, replacement of plugs and wires to the Tune of $380 parts and labor. Then the service tech says that Mazda suggest that all 4 coils be changed as well, at $44 a piece. Mazda is covering this but they had to order the coils. I am currently waiting for them to call me so I can get my car back.
I will post with further details
After reading this thread I realized I experienced the same problems driving my rx-8.
the Dealer first replaced the MAF to correct the CEL and the told me I was all set. I got in my car pulled out of the dealership and it fell flat on it's face. I don't even think they testdrove the car
. So after 3 more days they tell me I had one leading plug fail and one trailing plug fail, replacement of plugs and wires to the Tune of $380 parts and labor. Then the service tech says that Mazda suggest that all 4 coils be changed as well, at $44 a piece. Mazda is covering this but they had to order the coils. I am currently waiting for them to call me so I can get my car back. I will post with further details
06-04-2008, 01:39 PM
#29
SARX Legend
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They never test drove my either so I did some spirited laps around the dealer lot before I left this time to make sure it was running right. They just jump right to the plugs and the coils. Tell them to run a "cat efficiency test" Ha!! This dealer has been great in the past but the service guy I used to go left to a really crappy mazda dealer on the other side of town. Besides, this dealer has all the free expresso you can drink and two Xbox 360's so you can bust out some rally action while waiting. Haha
06-05-2008, 09:10 AM
#31
10000 RPM
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Now they tell me my K&N filter is what caused everything from the MAF sensor failure to the fouled plugs. They said I can't run a wet filter because of this. Anyone else have this issue? I can't switch back easily because I bought the car with an SR Motorsports cold air intake and the original airbox is long gone. I recently had the filter cleaned and recharged and i think overoiling caused this.
06-07-2008, 10:13 AM
#33
10000 RPM
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I got my car. It runs great but the tech told me I can't run a wet filter and I should install a dry one. They stripped my overoiled filter so i could drive my car out of there. and I went around the corner and bought a new K&N. My question is has anyone had a problem with a pre-oiled K&N?
06-07-2008, 05:53 PM
#34
I got my car. It runs great but the tech told me I can't run a wet filter and I should install a dry one. They stripped my overoiled filter so i could drive my car out of there. and I went around the corner and bought a new K&N. My question is has anyone had a problem with a pre-oiled K&N?
beers
06-07-2008, 07:21 PM
#35
Well if you do over oil the filter the oil will get on the MAF.
Just pull out the sensor after a month and clean it.
Then you will be good to go.
If you still have problems it's due to how you fill up your engine oil.
Do the Mod in the DIY section.
Just pull out the sensor after a month and clean it.
Then you will be good to go.
If you still have problems it's due to how you fill up your engine oil.
Do the Mod in the DIY section.
06-11-2008, 11:40 AM
#36
10000 RPM
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I actually waited 2 months and cleaned everything several times but still had to bring the car to the dealership.
I Haven't had my car a back week and the DAMN CEL is back on. I am going to install a "dry" filter and bring it back. My car is still running fine not at all like the last time. so I don't know why the light is on now. This is getting kind of annoying and expensive.
I Haven't had my car a back week and the DAMN CEL is back on. I am going to install a "dry" filter and bring it back. My car is still running fine not at all like the last time. so I don't know why the light is on now. This is getting kind of annoying and expensive.
06-25-2008, 10:53 PM
#47
Smashing emo kids.
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At least your dealer told you it was bogging. Mine would have said, "um. it seems fine. Loose this or that. Thats completely normal."
As for rotary shops, Ive made the 2 hour drive to rotary performance several times. Its worth it to me.
As for rotary shops, Ive made the 2 hour drive to rotary performance several times. Its worth it to me.
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