Spazzychaz

I haven't personally flooded the engine, but when I put the vehicle away for storage for the winter which is in my mother's garage she had to move it the day after to clear somethign from garage. She pumped the gas like you would an older vehicle and she flooded the vehicle.

starman

Hey Wolf:

Flooded the vehicle on 12/16/07. Actually out of warranty due to time. I have 40k but over three years.

The dealer says that Mazda has extended the warranty to 6yr/60k.

They de-flooded and replaced four burnt coils. All of this was FREE/paid by Mazda.

Don't let them charge you a dime. I was reading a post from several weeks back that someone says they were charged hundreds of dollars. Don't let it happen.

Good Luck. Also, since I don't drive the car, the wife does, I'm thinking it may be time to get rid of it. Any vehicle in the year 2007/2008 that actually floods and can't be restarted by the owner is unacceptable.

Good Luck

MrWolf

Well, good news on that front: they deflooded the engine, flashed the PCM, and did a few other assorted 'free' stuff relating to this and other recalls ...

... then recommended more services, which, as usual, I went ahead and did - I don't mind preventative maintenance. So it wasn't a free visit, but they probably would have suggested the other services next time I came in anyway, so ... shrug.

eclipsegsx

so here is my question:

If you flood and didnt wanna deal with towing it to a dealer, can the start be guaranteed if you:
put the car in 2nd gear, hold the clutch in, tow it to 15-20mph, dump the clutch, press on the gas after it catches and rev it to 6000rpm for 5 - 10 seconds?

will this work every time?

AJRX8

I live in Ohio and garage my Eight, but I like to start it periodically in the winter and drive it whenever the weather's good or there's no salt on the road. It's good for the car to do that. Anyway, I've had the cold weather flooding issue twice. Once it was so bad I had to pull my plugs and blow compressed air into the plug holes, an old drag racer's trick to unflood an engine. Flooding happens when there's too much liquid fuel in the engine & manifold; only vapors burn.

Whever I get in my Eight and it's cold outside, I pump the throttle twice to the floor. Then I take my foot off the gas and crank, it starts EVERY SINGLE TIME no matter the temperature. Maybe this is in the owner's manual or something (I don't have it with me right now) but the car fires right the hell up, every single time.

People kill me on chat boards... there's one guy who wants to sell his Eight just because it floods. There's another guy who "can't understand why people think this [flooding] is a problem."

Racer X-8

Poor battery power @ crank-up is just asking for it.

I tend to let my 8 sit from week-end to week-end since it's not anyone's daily mule.

About 3 week-ends ago, the starter wouldn't even crank at all, like the battery was dead. Sure enough, when I jumped it, it fired right up. After a nice joy ride to chrage it up, it acted fine all weekend.

The next week-end, it wouldn't crank again! Ah man, this battery must be in bad shape, I thought. It's the better battery that I got with the better starter about a year and a half ago. That's awfully new to be going bad already.

I got in there to check the electrolyte level, just to be sure, before I yanked it for a repacement. The level was perfect. I pulled on the ground cable and it moved! Not tight! It was snug, sorta, but not tight. I tightened it and buttoned it all up, and it cranked right up.

I'm not sure if I like the cable clamps. Y'all might want to check yours too. It takes 2 minutes, and the only tool you need is the wrench to tighten the clamp.

btw, I'm one of the first owners, a pre-order guy. Well over 4 years now (albeit, very low mileage so far), with not a hint of flooding ever. Just thought this thread needed a ray of sunshine...

OL!z RX8

iTrader: (1)

My engine just flooded saturday morning. I woke up to move spaces from my driveway, didnt let the engine warmup and i just shut it off quick and later that same morning around 11am when i had to go to work it didnt start. i tried jumping it and crankin it but it just wont start. called up mazda dealership and they cant take a look @ it till wednesday, so i have to wait till then...never thought this would happen to me since the latest recall was done to my 8 AND I ALWAYS let my engine warm up and just so happens that morning i didnt...THIS SUCKS!!...

reidnez

Firstly, I live in San Diego so the car doesn't normally see weather below 50 deg., which is probably why I haven't had this problem before. I drove home on vacation and started the car in about 35 deg. weather just to move it to another parking space, shut it right off not knowing better.

Three days later it wouldn't start...it was cranking fine but wouldn't fire. I hooked it up to a battery charger, same thing. Of course by trying to crank it over and over again I was only making the problem worse by dumping more fuel into the engine! There are no Mazda dealers in this area so I had it towed to an independent shop that I trust. They sorted it out, $100 later it's fine and I will NOT be making that mistake again.

It seems to me that this is a pretty big glitch for a modern, EFI, fully computerized car. Every car buff knows that it's bad to run your car for a short period of time, without letting it run through a heat cycle. But it isn't acceptable to me that it would run so rich as to leave the engine flooded when you shut it off and leave the owner with a car that needs maintenance to start again.

BlackRX82006

iTrader: (1)

I love the 8 and I do not plan on getting rid of it. But it's a valid argument to question why a brand new car has problems with flooding. Wouldn't mazda know and do something about it? Maybe something within in the car's computer?

I understand it's a sports car and you have to give it special attention. But they would have had to entertained the idea some bozo 16 year old, or some clueless woman would just turn the key on, smash it into gear, and hit the gas. And they wouldn't have the slightest idea to let it warm up.

Now, I always let my car warm up, and my girlfriends HATES me for it. If she's running late to work, and I'm parked in front of her, I wait for my car to warm up. She get's so impatient. So it's a small inconvenience, but it's well worth it for the joy I get out of the car. I usually let it settle to 1000 rpms, and 1500 if I'm in a rush. I let the engine settle a little bit so I know it's ready to go. And I wait until it completely warms up to DRIVE the car.

The point is, just do it

CERAMICSEAL

Generally speaking, brand new 8s aren't flooding. Mazda has taken care of it.

This may sound strange but you're better off NOT letting the car sit there idling to warm up. The enrichment (Fuel enrichment that is) that occurrs when a car is cold is extended by sitting waiting vs gently driving. Fuel enrichment causes fuel dilution of yor oil, carbon buidup on your sparkplugs and on engine internals (Rotors, exhaust ports, intake mechanisms etc) and can therefore even CAUSE flooding.

Unless you live in an area that is dangerous to drive gently when you leave home (Like close to a highway) you should start your car and drive mildly until full operating temps. Otherwise, if you're starting your car just to move it out of your girlfriends way, why don't you get out of her way and then let it warm up?

Seal.

PhillipM

It'll warm up far more quickly and more effiecently if you just drive around at low throttle openings + rpm, as ceramic says.

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

I concur with the last two.

...and you don't need your girlfriend to resent the car.

BlackRX82006

iTrader: (1)

Word

Delmeister

Having been the victim of two no-start situations, I now hold the accelerator to the floor for a few seconds before releasing it during cranking if I have any concerns about the car not starting. Examples of such situations are:
-after starting the car and not letting the engine warm up before shutting it off
-after a long period of not starting, such as a prolonged period in an airport parking lot
-under very cold conditions.

Holding the accelerator to the floor prevents the injection of fuel, with the expected benefits being
-helps clear out any residual gas in the chambers
-warms up the combustion chamber from compression heating of the air
-gets the rotors up to speed with hopefully better compression before the fuel is injected.

This has worked for me but there is no way of knowing if it was necessary. Also, it has been suggested that some of the latest flashes already hold off the fuel injection for a while. I believe the extra delay is beneficial for conditions such as mentioned above, but who knows.

ckrivin

Looks like I'm a victim of cold weather (11deg F) and too slow crank over. I've been charging the battery overnite for 3 nites, but I didn't know about holding the gas to the floor. My bat (oem) is being charged by bat shop now. Car is an early 04, but is supposedly up to date on recalls, had the plugs replaced as part of dlr 30K service this summer. Currently about 4oK miles. I'm careful about running the car until warm, and always 'rev" engine to 3-4K on shut down. Also use only name brand premium fuel, plus Lucas UCL additive, 2-3 oz per fuel fill. Thoughts/ suggestions? Kinda afraid of getting ripped off at the dealer.
Thanks!

wilsrx8

i took my turbo off my 8 and also the int. x and i try turning the car on with a home made intake, it started but as soon as i hit the gas it just turn off on me and made a back fire noise but very deep and smog came out, it smell just like it didnt burn the gas right. i put an aem intake and change to the oem spark plugs but it still wont turn on. does any one have any idea what to do?

zenrx8

iTrader: (4)

Couple of thoughts. First, you said this is the OEM battery; perhaps a silly question on my part, but is it the original battery? If so, might be time for a new battery; I'd recommend trying an Optima Yellow Top. Second, unless the coils have been replaced, they surely need it at 40K miles. Mine were already toasted and showing signs of arcing at 22K, and weak spark doesn't help with this problem. Third, you current plugs have 10K miles; I'd replace them with NGKs and drop the gap to .035.

Reading this thread seems to indicate that a lot of problems are cropping up at 30-40K even when owners are careful about shutdown/warmup. Knowing that the stock ignition components are essentially shot well before that time, I can't help but wonder if their demise is furthering the tendency of this motor to flood. And as far as the 08 models go, I hope that Mazda has fixed that problem, but it will be interesting to see what happens after these owners get some miles on their cars.

zenrx8

iTrader: (4)

Maybe, just maybe, this problem has to do with your "home-made intake" with regards to the postion of the vacuum fitting relative to the MAF sensor; the vacuum fitting needs to be as far downstream in the intake as possible from the MAF and of course, no leaks. As much as I hate to mention this, maybe the MAF sensor is damaged/shot. Best wild assed guesses on my part, good luck.

zenrx8

iTrader: (4)

Now there's a neat trick for the arsenal. AJ, do you remember what he plugs looked like when you pulled them?

ckrivin

Thanks zenrx8! OK to answer your questions. The leading coils were replaced by dlr when plugs were replaced, but the other 2 I dont know (bought the car used about a yr ago). Yes the battery is original panasonic but bat shop (who I'm sure would like to sell me a new one) sez there is nothing wrong with it. I noticed that the pana battery is quite tall, this is a good bat design since allows plate corrosion to fall to bottom without causing shorts between plates (shorter hight batteries fail sooner for this reason). But, when you say Optima yellow top is that the brand name? (I see Mazda recommends Interstate but that is nothing special IMHO). RE: Plugs. You mention NGK, agreed that is great brand. Any special size/ type? Mazda TSB shows pic of specific plug that is "hotter" (I assume hotter heat range) and also has notches cut into the metal housing, prob somthing related to flame propigation I assume. I don't know if the PCM has been flashed or the starter upgraded, gonna check that out now. When dlr replaced plugs they indicated some "special" adapter inside the engine or somthing was needed and charged outragous 70.00/plug, are they just full of s**t?

ckrivin

Hello
Just to update, early 2004 (before June 1) 6sp rx8 40K miles has all recalls (including PCM flash 4206F ) but has old starter (N3H1). Mazda roadside gives me the green light for covered tow. Since it is Sunday can't check w/ corporate, but will call them tomorrow (Mon). Will update list w/ result.

msrecant

Prior to 6/1/2004 the RX-8 did not come with the upgraded 640 CCA battery, which was considered a contributing factor to flooding (see the Engine cranks - no start service bulletin). If you still have the original battery you need to get it replaced ASAP for both age and generally improved starting reasons.

Also, definitely get the upgraded starter if you can have it done under warranty.

CERAMICSEAL

Why does anyone still have the old starter? Everyone needs to upgrade, whether or not they are in warranty.

Seal.

zenrx8

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for that bit. I hadn't yet become aware that the starter was also an issue. I'm starting to think it would be nice to have a "replace these parts because the factory stuff is crap" thread.


Wow, 70 bucks a plug, that's almost a 300% markup. NGK plugs are $25 apiece from Pettit racing. Your dealer is full of something. Check out the pics at www.pettitracing.com in the "ignition" section. As far as batteries, "Optima" is a brand name, the Yellow Top Model is high output/deep power model. Measure your box, make sure it'll fit; if it does, it will likely be the last battery you need if you keep a charge on it.

70 bucks for a spark plug. Sounds like the last time my GF had her Corolla serviced and was charged $55 for a cheap pressed copper replacement battery terminal... because the original was "corroded". I went back with a $2 battery brush and a $4 solid copper terminal and told them to stop ripping her off. I think maybe we go to the same dealer.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

The only parts I've had replaced on my '05 are:

1. One rear tailight that had condensation.
2. The runner clip on the center console.

I already had the new starter and plugs in my March '05 build.

So, aside from the above, the factory parts are pretty darn good!