Discussion of Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for RX-8
#126
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Groovy.
But I'm not stroked enough to receive this kind of info that is on a on a "need to know" basis. That might change now that I know of the option. And since I reprogram all of the MPV PCM's on my computer, I might have the service mgr boost my access or continue to buy me lunch on a daily basis.
Bonus to you my brother.
Tommy
But I'm not stroked enough to receive this kind of info that is on a on a "need to know" basis. That might change now that I know of the option. And since I reprogram all of the MPV PCM's on my computer, I might have the service mgr boost my access or continue to buy me lunch on a daily basis.
Bonus to you my brother.
Tommy
#127
FYI
Body and Accessories
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
09-004/04 RX8 - INTERIOR TIRE HOUSE TRIM LIFTING OVER BOTH REAR WHEEL HOUSINGS
APPLICABLE MODEL(S) / VINS
RX-8 - Prior to VIN JM1FE17**40112425
DESCRIPTION
Interior tire house trim over both rear well housings may lift due to the position of a wiring harness and metal clip on the back side of the tire house trim. Use the procedure below to first reposition the interfering wiring harnesses on each side of the vehicle using the modified "T" shaped clip and then reinstall the tire house trim using a redesigned resin clip to replace the metal clip on both tire house trims.
Customers having this concern should have their vehicles repaired using the following repair procedure.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Verify customer concern.
Remove the tire house trim from one side of vehicle:
NOTE: Use care when removing scuff plates and tire house trims as the tabs can break if pulled to the side or at an angle and not straight away from the vehicle.
Firmly lift the front of the rear seat cushion upward to disengage retainers. Remove rear seat cushion by lifting front of seat cushion up to disengage rear hook.
Remove 2 bolts at bottom of seat back, then remove the rear seat back by sliding upward and disengaging clips at top of seat back.
Remove seat belt from seat back guide and remove seat back.
Pull the outer edge of scuff plate upward to detach clips from the body and remove scuff plate.
Partially peel back the seaming welt weather-strip.
Pull the tire house trim outward and detach clips A and locator pins B.
Detach tabs C and remove the tire house trim.
Remove the "T" shaped clip from the harness:
Cut the Green electrical tape securing the "T" shaped clip to the wiring harness.
Pull the "T" shaped clip out of the body.
Replace the "T" shaped clip with a modified part:
Relocate the harness 15mm (0.6 inch) from the side body panel.
Tape the modified "T" shaped clip to the harness with electrical tape.
Secure the modified "T" shaped clip into its mounting hole.
Place the tire house trim upside down on a surface that will not scratch the tire house trim.
Replace the tire house trim existing metal clip with the redesigned resin clip. Place in location indicated in the figure.
Install the tire house trim. Reverse procedure outlined in Step 2.
Repeat entire procedure for tire house trim on opposite side of vehicle.
Verify repair.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Body and Accessories
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
09-004/04 RX8 - INTERIOR TIRE HOUSE TRIM LIFTING OVER BOTH REAR WHEEL HOUSINGS
APPLICABLE MODEL(S) / VINS
RX-8 - Prior to VIN JM1FE17**40112425
DESCRIPTION
Interior tire house trim over both rear well housings may lift due to the position of a wiring harness and metal clip on the back side of the tire house trim. Use the procedure below to first reposition the interfering wiring harnesses on each side of the vehicle using the modified "T" shaped clip and then reinstall the tire house trim using a redesigned resin clip to replace the metal clip on both tire house trims.
Customers having this concern should have their vehicles repaired using the following repair procedure.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Verify customer concern.
Remove the tire house trim from one side of vehicle:
NOTE: Use care when removing scuff plates and tire house trims as the tabs can break if pulled to the side or at an angle and not straight away from the vehicle.
Firmly lift the front of the rear seat cushion upward to disengage retainers. Remove rear seat cushion by lifting front of seat cushion up to disengage rear hook.
Remove 2 bolts at bottom of seat back, then remove the rear seat back by sliding upward and disengaging clips at top of seat back.
Remove seat belt from seat back guide and remove seat back.
Pull the outer edge of scuff plate upward to detach clips from the body and remove scuff plate.
Partially peel back the seaming welt weather-strip.
Pull the tire house trim outward and detach clips A and locator pins B.
Detach tabs C and remove the tire house trim.
Remove the "T" shaped clip from the harness:
Cut the Green electrical tape securing the "T" shaped clip to the wiring harness.
Pull the "T" shaped clip out of the body.
Replace the "T" shaped clip with a modified part:
Relocate the harness 15mm (0.6 inch) from the side body panel.
Tape the modified "T" shaped clip to the harness with electrical tape.
Secure the modified "T" shaped clip into its mounting hole.
Place the tire house trim upside down on a surface that will not scratch the tire house trim.
Replace the tire house trim existing metal clip with the redesigned resin clip. Place in location indicated in the figure.
Install the tire house trim. Reverse procedure outlined in Step 2.
Repeat entire procedure for tire house trim on opposite side of vehicle.
Verify repair.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by markpmm; 02-26-2004 at 10:40 PM.
#129
Stuck in a love triangle
Wowthere have been a lot of bulletins relatedto the wheels and tires lately. I wonder how longit will be till they issue one for owners whose brakes are squealing sometimes when slowing down the car. Its probably moreof a problem for automatic Rx8s then manual. Thats the only problem Im having with my Rx8.
#132
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Fellas...
While at the dealer a couple of days ago, the service manager suggested that with the high metallic content in brake pads these days, he finds that those that use their brakes aggressively have less squeal AND less of the rear brakes trying to seize after being parked over night. Apparently in the old days, heavily used brakes (causes heat) glazed pads where now the higher metallic content needs a bit of exercise.
Tom
While at the dealer a couple of days ago, the service manager suggested that with the high metallic content in brake pads these days, he finds that those that use their brakes aggressively have less squeal AND less of the rear brakes trying to seize after being parked over night. Apparently in the old days, heavily used brakes (causes heat) glazed pads where now the higher metallic content needs a bit of exercise.
Tom
#133
Originally posted by Omicron
Tommy, do you have a TSB list for the Mazda 6 too?
Tommy, do you have a TSB list for the Mazda 6 too?
http://www.mazda6tech.com/cms/index....890beac5988c3d
All Mz6 bulletins will be here
Last edited by markpmm; 03-11-2004 at 09:16 PM.
#134
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I just took my 8 over to my dealership today for the lastest recalls and I thought that I would get the 'L' reflash done. Shared with them the poor gas mileage, etc. What I found out was that my car has a VIN number prior to the one's on the TSB and he said that I couldn't get the reflash and that I should have the most up-to-date coding. I purchased the car 10/22/03 right of the truck. Build date must have been sometime late July or early August I would assume.
My question to those of you that have gotten the 'L' reflash; Was your VIN number after the *40132647 that was given on the TSB? Or did you still get the 'L' reflash with a VIN before that number?
Again, mine falls below that and the TSB says its applicable to VIN's after that number. I'm confused how the VIN #'s work. I figured anything before that number would be applicable. Therefore, the later VIN numbers (newer cars) would have the most updated coding. Thank you in advance for your help.
My question to those of you that have gotten the 'L' reflash; Was your VIN number after the *40132647 that was given on the TSB? Or did you still get the 'L' reflash with a VIN before that number?
Again, mine falls below that and the TSB says its applicable to VIN's after that number. I'm confused how the VIN #'s work. I figured anything before that number would be applicable. Therefore, the later VIN numbers (newer cars) would have the most updated coding. Thank you in advance for your help.
#137
Cones need lovin' too!
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Ohhhh.... I think the TSB used when they installed the "L" on mine was MIL with DTC P0128 and/or P0456 - Issued 11/07/03.
That was the one reported on my statement of work and it resulted in my "L" reflash. It appears that they were correct about the one you showed them... but strange that it is for AFTER vin.
That was the one reported on my statement of work and it resulted in my "L" reflash. It appears that they were correct about the one you showed them... but strange that it is for AFTER vin.
Last edited by ranger4277; 03-11-2004 at 05:38 PM.
#138
Prodigal Wankler
Originally posted by success07
What I found out was that my car has a VIN number prior to the one's on the TSB and he said that I couldn't get the reflash and that I should have the most up-to-date coding.
What I found out was that my car has a VIN number prior to the one's on the TSB and he said that I couldn't get the reflash and that I should have the most up-to-date coding.
#139
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New TSB posted:Engine Cranks/No Start.
#140
Mmmmm... Rotary Donut
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Originally posted by rx8cited
New TSB posted:Engine Cranks/No Start.
New TSB posted:Engine Cranks/No Start.
Seriously though- this verifies that Mazda must have done some serious leaning of the maps in the 'L' calibration if it's on the checklists of things to do if a vehicle floods.
#141
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Originally posted by Omicron
Tommy, do you have a TSB list for the Mazda 6 too?
Tommy, do you have a TSB list for the Mazda 6 too?
Tommy
#142
Originally posted by islandsoon
Fellas...
While at the dealer a couple of days ago, the service manager suggested that with the high metallic content in brake pads these days, he finds that those that use their brakes aggressively have less squeal AND less of the rear brakes trying to seize after being parked over night. Apparently in the old days, heavily used brakes (causes heat) glazed pads where now the higher metallic content needs a bit of exercise.
Tom
Fellas...
While at the dealer a couple of days ago, the service manager suggested that with the high metallic content in brake pads these days, he finds that those that use their brakes aggressively have less squeal AND less of the rear brakes trying to seize after being parked over night. Apparently in the old days, heavily used brakes (causes heat) glazed pads where now the higher metallic content needs a bit of exercise.
Tom
#144
Administrator
they wouldn't give me the L flash when i went in for the recall work. i have never flooded my car but now i'm thinking about flooding it on purpose just to get the new flash and the hotter plugs.
#145
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Folks, let's stick to discussing TSBs and not let this thread degenrate into another thread bitching about flooding, or (name the issue dejour). I have moved the flooding discussion into the stickied "Flooding" thread, here.
#146
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Just a regular person response here...no biz intended....
WHAT?????
That sounds like "I've never smoked crack and been busted but I always wanted 3 hots and a cot for free so I'm thinking about doin' it".....
Dood...I can't reflash your 8's 'puter but I'll give you a set of plugs if it'll keep you outta the joint...
Really...there's gotta be anudder dealer to help you out...I know it's a pain to go to one in the first place but...
<Work Mode Back On>
Send me your ECU - I'll get it reflashed.
EDITED - "i have never flooded my car but now i'm thinking about flooding it on purpose just to get the new flash and the hotter plugs."
WHAT?????
That sounds like "I've never smoked crack and been busted but I always wanted 3 hots and a cot for free so I'm thinking about doin' it".....
Dood...I can't reflash your 8's 'puter but I'll give you a set of plugs if it'll keep you outta the joint...
Really...there's gotta be anudder dealer to help you out...I know it's a pain to go to one in the first place but...
<Work Mode Back On>
Send me your ECU - I'll get it reflashed.
#147
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New 3/17/2004 bulletins
New 3/17/2004 Postings (Thanks Tommy):
Parts Flash: Accessory Theft Alarm Shock Sensor Kit
Service Bulletin: Dome Lamp Flashing and/or Clicking Sound From Rear Doors
Parts Flash: Accessory Theft Alarm Shock Sensor Kit
Service Bulletin: Dome Lamp Flashing and/or Clicking Sound From Rear Doors
#148
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Originally posted by Bigcat44
Yeah thats the first place I looked and while the sticker is there, the numbers are not!! Thanks for the info
Yeah thats the first place I looked and while the sticker is there, the numbers are not!! Thanks for the info
There are actually two stickers that I found...one on the driver's door sill-area (on the body without the pressures) and the other (with the pressures) in the driver's door itself.
They fooled me too...my car tires had 45 PSI in them when I picked the vehicle up.
#149
For those of you who have had problems getting the "L" Flash from your dealers, I WOULD NOT FLOOD your engine. Print out the TSB and go to your dealer and tell them you have difficulty starting your car sometimes. Tell them it takes 2 or 3 attempts when it is cold sometimes. Hand them the TSB and that is all they need to get flash covered under warranty. I watched my service writer log on to the Mazda Service site to get authorization for the Flash and all he needed was that info (Trouble starting once in a while when cold, takes 2 or 3 attempts to start car) and he will be authorized to flash your car.
#150
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I have noticed that my security sys light (Car with a key) flashes now. In that past i had noticed a clicking noise from my doors I tried to track it down. Could it be this? The Diode replacement TSB.
bill
bill