Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

I think my coolant seals are starting to go or a freeze plug. Coolant fluid level is always low after a week of driving it everyday, goop(condensation) build up around the dip-stick, and a much pronounced white smoke at cold-start. The video linked below is something I took last month when I had a CEL pop-up for a week which lead me to change the wires and spark plugs, while the coils are still well below 5k miles, I just switched it around in different order. Took care of the misfires and CEL, not the 5-8 seconds rough start.

Initial rough start with misfire(blinking to solid CEL)

MariesRX8

Center Dash Speaker replaced at 84,000 miles (2004 MT)

ASH8

Yeah, sounds like your engine is due for renewal, you have got a very good mileage.
Anyway..this info is not for this thread..

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...97&postcount=1

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

2006 GT MT (built in February) purchased new early November 2006, currently @ 87k miles. Roughly in chronological order.

1. Driver's side sun visor cracked (twice I believe, both replaced under warranty).
2. Rattling moonroof in tilt mode (fixed under warranty; still rattles).
3. Condensation in passenger side tail light (replaced under warranty).
4. Overfilling gas tank (gas tank replaced under warranty).
5. Squeaky clutch pedal (fixed under warranty).
6. Driver's front seat plastic molding cracked (in front of electronic controls; fixed once under warranty, split again later).
7. Ash tray lid spring came out (easy self fix with a drill).
8. Intake screens (around MAF sensor) half-way ripped out over time (replaced with AEM CAI).
9. E-brake plastic tab cover snapped three times (each warranty replacement crapped out; gave up after 2nd replacement).
10. Hazing of headlights by 3 years.
11. Keyless entry system failure in trunk receiver (fixed under extended warranty).
12. Coolant sensor failed (replaced under extended warranty).
13. Center console lid (arm rest) sliding clips (replaced and very careful with it now; tis very fragile).
14. Battery positive terminal rubber flap came off.
15. Small hole in shift boot.
16. Engine mounts replaced (recommended replacement by technician's visual inspection; they were rusty looking, but didn't seem problematic. Regardless, I replaced them myself).
17. Battery replaced a month ago after too many slow cold starts (maintenance item at this point, I guess).
18. Front lower control arm bushings are rather shot and very creaky when cold.
19. Twitchy driver's side seat warmer switch (red) light; goes back on when I tap it.
20. Air pump is progressively getting louder on cold days; only a matter of time until I delete it.

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

I didn't directly read the requirements. But here are mine in order:

Driver side engine mount - replaced.
Catalytic converter - replaced.
Carpet wear where the heel rests below gas pedal - left alone.
Rear cup holder cover - left alone.
Passenger side rear window latch - Jerry-rigged.
Driver side sun visor - Jerry-rigged.
Hole on the shift boot - left alone.
Tab for the sliding center console door - Jerry-rigged.
Broken top radiator nipple - completely replaced.
Coolant sensor - unplugged.
Haze on headlights - buffed.
Water/condensation in the taillights - just kept emptying out water.
Worn trunk rubber weather seals - left alone.
2004 Key FOB - replaced with a switchblade.
Latch for glove box - Jerry-rigged.
Clutch braket - replaced.
Clutch release bearing - replaced.
Driver side door lock striker spring(not actuator) - Jerry-rigged.
Sticky, front-left brake floating rods - fixed.
Starter - replaced.
HVAC heater control - fixed.
Passenger side auxilary (small) bulb next to the high beam - replaced.
OEM Fatory Engine - replaced with MAZDA remanufactured engine.
Coolant reservoir(expansion tank) - replaced.
OEM Upper coolant hoses - replaced with SAMCO silicone hoses.
Driver side seat warmer - left alone.
Air Solenoid Valve(P2259 CEL) - replaced.
High-mount (third) brake light harness - fixed.
Fuel sending unit - left alone.
One elbow pipe on the Air Intake's accordion tube - replaced.
CD Player Stopped playing - fixed.
Radio antenna - fixed.
Driver side door light broke - replaced.

JantzenRX-8

iTrader: (9)

2004 MT GT 75k miles

The only true OEM wear and tear i've had:
Brake pads
brake rotors
Ignition coils

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Just as an observation, and definately off topic -

I have been on this forum for about 9 years, moderating virtually all the 'Parts Wanted' section, and I find it interesting that I've never seen anyone need either a door window motor or a wiper motor.......they just don't fail.

I had a Jeep that needed 3 of each!

RotaryTherapy

iTrader: (1)

2006 MT @ 60K

Driver side sunvisor
Vacuum elbow on top of the accordion tube
2 OE Wheels due to bad curb rash
TPMS sensor inside left rear wheel snapped. ( also brittle plastic )
Small plastic inlet piece on top of radiator. (snapped and brittle when taking off hose to replace with silicone ones)

The rest were either replaced for maintenance ( usual service ) or just for an aftermarket one to improve it ( not that there was anything wrong with the OE ones )

twistedwankel

iTrader: (6)

See attached pix. Mind you it was inspected last June and they said "No problem".

Fortunately I still have two months on the warrantee and they actually had one in stock FREE replacement in less than 24 hours and it lasted long enough to drive it to the Dealership too. 64,400 miles. These ALL should have been replaced under recall. BS waiting for it to self destruct. Amazingly it happened when I started the car in the driveway. "SNAP".

1. New Cat warrantee 63k miles FREE 2011.
2. New Radiator and overflow bottle @ 63k miles 2011.
3. Clean intake and replace control valve/code @ 63k miles 2011 + new crankcase due to failed sensor. $$$
4. Fan belt killed coil so made a "guard" for the next time $450 @ dealer due to stolen car code in CPU. GRRRRR. 63k miles 2011.
5. Pass side visor repair + rear tail light reseals.
6. New bigger starter 63500 miles 2011 (should have been a recall) $500.
7. Clutch pedal bracket assy snapped 64,400 miles FREE.
8. Replaced front Mazda emblem as glue let go?? Someone probably backed into the car??
9. Heater/AC fan circuit board speed controller replaced as quit working on low speed.
10. Seal on top of gas tank pump assy failed gushing out upon fill up 1/2013 @68k miles, cost $500 @ dealer to replace 3 parts. Frankly this is a dangerous failure.
11. Passenger airbag door cover cracked into H so I put a Mazdaspeed decal over it and picked up a very slightly cracked spare for when it gets totally unexceptible.
12. Fan circuit board as low speed burned out. Dealer item. $100
13. Power steering totally quit 69,200mi. 2/2013 Fixed better than original with cleaning plugs and relo overflow hose DIY fix Did the occassional wiggle when cold for years.
14. Replaced the total DS door gasket torn since I've had the car 11/13 @72,000 found a used one on this site. Trunk lid gasket is now torn too. Fixed with windshield sealer. Looks good.
15. Bolted custom fit aluminum floormats over hole worn in carpet from racing both sides for appearance sake. SCCA autocross is cool with it. Bolt sharp ends hidden into floor frame as no wires in there.
16. Ashtray spring finally broke - don't smoke don't care can still open and close it carefully.

This kind of sucks for a car I've primarily autocrossed and run fast for only 15k miles in the last 4 years. But hey it's now 10 years old!!!

Rx 8 is the prescription for anti-aging.

ASH8

bump..

SuperMod

I've enjoyed cruising this forum in the past and just signed on today..
I'm looking for Pwr. seat control info as the plastic pieces on my '05 GT have popped off..
Obviously a foolish design as exiting the car squeezes the side trim down and out thus popping the finger control pieces off the switch so was hoping to find a solution/update w/ part #'s here?.
I've found references to the same problem on other sites but would appreciate someone pointing me to any existing threads if this same situation has already been covered here in the past?.


Thanks!.
~ Pete

diabolical1

2004 GT

front main seal - (replaced)

MOP gasket - (replaced)

catalytic converter - (destroyed, will be replaced when it's convenient for me to get a race pipe)

left tail light (it had standing water, so i drilled 3 holes)

OEM tire pump (wires were dry-rotted. i will replace at my convenience.)

car seems to think the passenger door is open ALL the time - (not tended to yet)

rear plastic trim around the tailpipes - (pop out every so often. i'm thinking what to do to address it.)

inconsistent heating - (probably won't do anything about it, but who knows?)

lta_ds_fs7

iTrader: (2)

I'm going to have to ruin this for you...I need a window motor...It still works, but not properly.

missinmahseven

Hi Ash.

I really don't pay attention to who does what here, but if by chance you can get a comprehensive list of the sqwaks we've listed here directly to Hiroshima instead of MNAO, maybe they can be of use faster than if they went through "normal channels" of being reported up by service depts.. that could take.. fornever.



My sqwaks, as of today at 118,000, 2005 Shinka # 116, built 11/04.

1. Driver's visor, twice. Once under warranty when car was only 2 years old, and again it broke summer last year.. on my dime.

2. Throwout or pilot bearing at 80,000. Always shifted 1-2 a bit funny, but selling dealer said it's OK. Clutch itself was still very good. Both I and the replacing dealer think the selling dealer had savaged this car at delivery. Great! I've never done one single clutch dump or burnout... I learned my rotary lessons with a GSL-SE. That kind of stuff just breaks clutches, boxes and even engines.

3. Coils, sub-radiator bottle, hvac control head, all at 100,000.

4. Headlight covers yellowed by year 3. Unbelievable. Please make them out of glass or Perspex / Lucite -- those don't yellow. I'll gladly take the weight penalty of glass over Lexan, if it means I don't have to polish or replace the $1000 USD headlight assemblies.

5. Passenger airbag cover, at around 112,000 or so miles (summer last year)

6. Replaced (warranty) driver's tail light for moisture. Then it just kept doing it, so I just take 'em off and dry 'em.. one day I'll do the silicone. Nota bene: Water in the tails eat away at the fin's plating. The little fins where the side LEDs are.

7. Clutch pedal squeaks / groans a bit, I suspect it's the same crap as the MIata -- they forgot to either grease the fork, or something. I'll fix one day.

8. Sunroof driver's side pivot thing broke. Scraped up plastic and metal surface with coarse sandpaper, a dab of epoxy and clamped overnight with a 1-foot hemostat, and is all good.

9. Plastic spring inside the thingy that holds the free end of the driver's visor broke at 90,000-ish. Don't care.

10. Paint by the fake "B" pillar, the top forward corner of the rear door -- bubbling. Tiny spot, about 1/2 inch. I'll fix one day.

11. Mats are garbage. The ones in the miata were much, much better, with integrated heelpad for drivers. All I have on my driver's mat is a hole where my heels go.

12. Driver's outside door handle fell off. That's no joke. Came off in my hand, and I don't remember ever being abusive to it, or the rest of the car.

13. Passenger's side doorlock actuator at 115,000 miles. To it's defense, I barely carry pax. So now, every time before I take off for the 1st time in any given day, I cycle both locks and both windows to keep 'em limber.

14. Cabin blower stopped one day. Didn't start when car did. Cycled car and it came back up. o.O Ditto for pax-side parking lamp (the 194 in the little 'cannon')

15. Ashtray and lighter lamps (the funky little toshiba ones.) I think they blew early on, I just had quit smoking so who cares.. but I still enjoy a little cigar when on a long calm drive at night, so yeah.. I wanted my ashtray lights back.

16. Steering wheel airbag due to rattle. Warranty.

17. Rattles. Oh kami-sama this car rattles like the dickens! The sunroof rattles. The doors rattle. The trunk rattles. The aft section of the cabin rattles. I've been able to fix just one -- the little handle in the trunk, on the passenger side. Shimmed with a dime. The dealers I've been to, and myself, just can't seem to figure out where the rattles are coming from. No amount of prodding, touching, jiggling reveals the culprits.

18. Motor mounts, early on. Warranty.

It may sound like a lot, but it could be far, far worse. My interior still looks good after 7 years of FL life. By this time, the GSL-SE's red wine had faded to icky brown, all the rear carpet had rotted, etc. Good thing RX-8 has UV glass!

So there you have it. My list of sqwaks for this car so far.

What I find unforgivable isn't the long list of folks with blown engines, etc. That's a fact of rotary life, sadly -- and I exhort mazda to continue refining the rotary and gives more, and better, in years to come.

What I find unforgivable is all the little things you'd think a carmaker would've sorted out after making cars for how many decades now? C'mon folks.. it's a mazda, not a lotus. I suspect my car has a bit of Lotus in it, it gets funny in the head every so often, some things are intermittant, etc.

Still love her, and will only part ways when we're forced to -- but at the same time, compared to my Miata, which I owned from new for 10 years and 160,000 miles, this car is pretty much unacceptable, build-quality wise.

I may sound harsh, but for the $32,000 that a Shinka went for, I expected much better. I expected it to exceed my Miata's build quality -- it didn't. I think the '94 Miata was screwed together better than this RX8 was.

I hope Mazda listens and learns. If I even get half a feeling that the next rotary car will be built like this one, I simply won't buy. As much as I love the rotary, 32K for GM-level build quality and materials is crap. It's a mazda, not a lotus! A mazda, not a GM! C'mon!

On the upshot, I dunno if it's your switches or who you source your bulbs from, but this is my 3rd mazda, and other than one headlight (old-fashioned sealed-beam) in the RX-7, and the two ashtray bulbs in the RX8, I've yet to have one single "major" bulb blow on any of these.

So, I'm one of those that firmly believe the "X" in RX is eXperiment -- you may tell the Mazda folks that the great majority of their interior experiments failed.

However, I think the Shinka's interior is very upmarket-looking, and would like if other Mazdas going forward show the same elegant restraint. So different from the normal car. Like it much better with all the piano black instead of silver. I hear Maeda-san wants that too, so there it is -- one piece of positive thought. The cabin looks like a million bucks.

Looks.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

2004 @ 136,450

Both visors are busted.

Compressor side of the AC line bolt got loose and leaked all the freon out over several weeks.

The Metal RX8 logo strip by the door came off.

HVAC Fan **** busted.

Sometimes when I press the power button for the radio is turns off and on.

Leaking neutral safety switch (took it out lined threads and plug with RTV no more issues)

Shoe print on roof liner from a female... oh wait...

That's all she wrote, my 8 has given me less problems than anyone I know. Maybe becuase I do all my own work I dunno.

ASH8

'missin'

I will get around to the list..one day...which was/is purely for our owner information.

I have no intention of forwarding anything to Hiroshima as it is really pointless, why...because they already know what falls apart or breaks, they analyze every warranty claim long before I ever started this thread.

Almost everything you listed was updated or changed in the Series 2, that is how Mazda works.
Not necessarily 'better or fixed'.

And almost everything you listed is not made at Mazda or by Mazda but for them.

You will never see glass headlamps again, safety and design, you can't get glass to go that (shape) without a lot of extra weight.

Part of all this goes to what the consumer expects in a car and at what cost, America (USA) gets cars cheaper than any other market and you still complain (no offense), you want and expect more for less...don't delude ourselves the Miata is no better than any other Mazda, yes it is reliable, but obviously if it is not used during winter it is going to last longer, therefore seen as more reliable.

There are a few of us here who remember Mazda in the 'old school' days, yes they were great for what they were, but when you work in Parts you see and touch EVERYTHING, back then they were simple and very basic, todays Mazda's have twice the parts in them and 3 times the amount of wiring/electrics...AFIAC there is no comparison on which is the better drivers car, old school or the 2000~ vintages....the ones made in the 70's, 80's were good, but not that good...some were just bloody woeful....the RX-7 started to change it all...then the MX-5.

SPHINX144

My fuel pump is malfunctioning-already ordered a new one-- that's the only major thing that has broken besides the alternator.

Evilnissan

Orginal engine died on the interstate 2 weeks ago and finally got the car back from Mazda with a warrenty motor. It didnt come cheap.

Maf - Killed by oil pumped up in the intake by #2 rotor.
Front O2 - Killed by oil pumped out the exhaust from #2 rotor.
Wire harness had a bad repair job from either rodent damage or some sort of removed mod.




Thanks god I got that all at cost and no labor.

Going to replace brake pads tomarrow.

Still need to fix.
Busted fog light.
worn shocks
a few spots of rust on fenders from bad rock chips.

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

Check my signature...

missinmahseven

They all had their moments. My NA popped clutch slaves every 75,000. I think they were allergic to DOT3 fluid. One caliper locked up at 140,000 or so. Waterpumps went at around 90 -- I just replaced 'em out of habit when I did the timing belt. To mazda's credit, the latest crop of such things seem to work just fine.

Rust in the 80's and 70's cars was bad -- but so it was for everyone else. Some worse than others. My gsl-se despite being an outdoor Alabama car which was never garaged had very little rust, all of it just the normal surface rust, none of that car-eating cancer from the 70's and before.

But in 10, 20, 30 years, all we'll remember out of all of these were the miles with smiles. Al least for me, I just remember the good times with that gsl-se, or the miata, or the 323 one of my friends had, or the rear-drive GLC another had, or.... I think I've always liked mazda. Always thought they were just a little crazy.

I remember that suitcase car they cobbled together in the 90's I think. It's a folding go-kart. I want!

Oh, and to keep this on-topic.. forgot before:

20: Shift boot, the upper part (the vinyl, I think) not much left of the bottom folds at 118,000. But that's actually better than most. I'm putting in the redline leather one. Someday. Shift boots die, it's what they do. This lasted about 3x better than whatever Leyland put into my mgb. I dunno, that one was threads with scraps of alleged fabric of some sort. You got to smell the gearbox.

21: the metal around the top of the shifter -- looks like it's been chewed up by thumb rings -- but I wear no such thing, and I shift with just 3 fingertips on it. Hmm.

On the whole, I'd rather drive modern cars. The old days weren't as brilliant as we remember -- they were actually kinda dismal, we just sift the bad crap out over time. I don't miss rust. Or carburators. Or wet ignitions. Or bias-ply tires. Or the three-inch dead spot in my rx-7's steering box. Or having your tape deck eat your favorite tape. Or rounding the corner and watching your hubcap outrun you -- going the other way. Or vinyl seats. Ewwwww.

I know mazda doesn't make a lot of the stuff -- but they do seem to have a knack for selecting bulb makers, belt makers, etc. Never really had any belt issues, other than extreme old age in the rx-7. It looks like the alternator's never changed over the decades -- why bother? Seems to be a good unit.

On the whole.. this could be a lot, lot worse. It could be 1970's bad. Let's all be glad that isn't the case.. even when we're swearing at the visor hanging from a wire for nth time

PeteInLongBeach

Well, FWIW, almost 50,000 miles.... and still nothing. Not one screw, bulb, clip, rattle, nothing.

Just regular consumables and maintenance. Of course, this could all change tomorrow....

Jake33

iTrader: (2)

^hey im at 49k and didnt have anything break or go bad on me either

diabolical1

you might want to get that to a dealer. they sent out a bulletin last year. it's one of the things they actually copped to. do it before it breaks.

dude, you just jinxed yourself.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Update; 102k miles.
-Radio fixed
-DSC malfunctioning
-Suspected clogged omp oil lines, flushed out.
-Suspect Oil pan leak, but have not investigated it, I think its just some oil from the last oil change (Spilled some on top of the engine by mistake.) Leaves no drips on the ground.
-Coolant Light seems to come on when my thermostat opens, which is kinda cool.

Burning lots of oil and gas, no real complaints.

Boeuf

iTrader: (2)

2005 GT 112000 km (purchased it at 69000 km)
I don't know what if anything was repaired before I bought the car but since I've owned it.
- replaced front and rear headlight level sensors 85k km
- replaced battery 95k km
- replaced starter 95k km
- replaced clutch pedal bracket under Mazda warranty program at 105k km
- replaced pilot bearing 105k km. (replaced about 600 km after dealer replaced the clutch bracket which they needed two attempts to do, they forgot to replace the clutch position sensor and I got stranded the day after they did the clutch bracket.)