starting a full wire tuck
12-31-2010, 04:01 PM
#1
Resident Cool Guy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: MN and AZ
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
starting a full wire tuck
Hey guys, my car is in the garage all winter long and I'm thinking about undergoing a wiretuck for the engine bay. I haven't decided yet if I'm going to pull the engine yet, it would certainly make moving around a lot easier. Before I begin I have a few questions, am I going to need to worry about extending the wires for the ecu? In terms of their resistance/impedance? Does anyone have any pointers as to how they have done it? I know its rare to see an 8 with a tuck, I'm wondering if it is because there is a technical reason behind it.
Also on a side note, are there any other projects of relatively low cost I should do while the car is sitting until April?
Also on a side note, are there any other projects of relatively low cost I should do while the car is sitting until April?
12-31-2010, 04:11 PM
#2
There is a lot of wires that need to be altered...the good thing is that as long as you don't alter the engine harness to ECU wiring you shouldn't have too many problems. I wouldn't touch that harness if I could help it
It isn't as easy as it looks though..there are 2 big harnesses down each side that cross the frontl...so it takes a lot of work
It isn't as easy as it looks though..there are 2 big harnesses down each side that cross the frontl...so it takes a lot of work
12-31-2010, 04:31 PM
#4
Resident Cool Guy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: MN and AZ
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will definitely send him a PM, do you know if he is still using a wiring harness from the renesis or is he using some other type of ecu system
01-01-2011, 11:52 AM
#6
Super Moderator
Why?
01-01-2011, 09:51 PM
#7
Resident Cool Guy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: MN and AZ
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why?
I started to take the car apart today to get a better look at the wiring and to map out how I'm going to run the extended wires. It is very cold here in Minnesota, it was 0 degrees outside today and 35 in the garage with a space heater about 2 feet from the car. Here are a couple of pictures. Right now the fenders, bumper, hood, battery, intake, strut bar are off the car. I am going to order some spools of wire next week and I also have a bunch of other projects to do this winter also. I am installing nitrous, oil filter relocate kit, and battery relocation. Also in taking the car apart I noticed one of my cooling hoses from the coolant overflow bottle is cracking or already leaking, so new hoses for that are going to be ordered and I may install a grounding kit.
Last edited by boarderjosh10; 01-01-2011 at 09:54 PM.
01-08-2011, 08:18 PM
#8
Resident Cool Guy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: MN and AZ
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Started looking at all the wiring and mapping out how the main bundles are going to go, here is the first part of where I'm starting, do any of you know if I can disconnect the connector that originally went to the airpump? it seems like I should be able to, but I also know that not everything could be removed when you remove the airpump... next up is slicing through the wirewrap and cleaing up the bundle and tucking it in the inner fender wall.
01-09-2011, 11:47 AM
#10
The only wires I cut during my wire tuck is that for the MAF sensor and ABS connector. Instead of just snipping away at all the wires I decided to pull the harness all the way out and feed it back around the fenders. It's all one long harness from the passenger side, to the front frame rail, to the driver's side and through the firewall. I de-pinned all the connectors for every sensor and labeled and triple checked them. The most intimidating part is the de-pinning of all the connectors at the fuse box. There are a alot of wires!
When I was done, I turned the car on and checked to see if everything worked. Luckily the only thing that didn't work was the headlight, and it was because I didn't push the relay down all the way.
When I was done, I turned the car on and checked to see if everything worked. Luckily the only thing that didn't work was the headlight, and it was because I didn't push the relay down all the way.
01-09-2011, 11:56 AM
#11
Started looking at all the wiring and mapping out how the main bundles are going to go, here is the first part of where I'm starting, do any of you know if I can disconnect the connector that originally went to the airpump? it seems like I should be able to, but I also know that not everything could be removed when you remove the airpump... next up is slicing through the wirewrap and cleaing up the bundle and tucking it in the inner fender wall.
01-10-2011, 11:03 PM
#12
Resident Cool Guy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: MN and AZ
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just got done with the passenger side bundle, the wires for the fuel pump resistor were long enough to not have to cut them and the FPR is able to still fit inside the engine bay. The cable for the baro sensor is pretty short and I haven't figured out a good place to put the sensor since the bracket for the airpump where it was located, no longer exists.
Last edited by boarderjosh10; 01-11-2011 at 07:38 PM.
03-10-2012, 11:50 AM
#14
I did this the the passenger side and now it won't start. Will anything I did not make it start? I also don't have any coolant in the res. would that cause a no start? Help please.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Audio Concepts ATL
New Member Forum
21
09-26-2021 01:59 PM
Nisaja
New Member Forum
2
08-06-2015 01:27 AM
Touge
Canada Forum
0
07-28-2015 09:52 PM
dbarber
Series I Trouble Shooting
14
07-25-2015 01:34 PM
