Audio Concepts ATL

I have read quite a few posts about the causes of my problem, and I think mine is very unique. I will attempt to give as much background on the problem and info as I can.....
I have a 2004 (July '03 production date) 1st generation 6 speed. The first day, back in April, that I bought it from a private seller, I drove it to Jacksonville Beach, FL, which is about 4 hours away from me in Atlanta. Before leaving Atlanta I had to take care of some things and drove the car around for about an hour without shutting it off when I made my brief stops. Had my two daughters (10 & 6) with me. Our last stop before getting on the road was at McDonalds to get them some food for the road. Pulled out from McD's and getting on the on ramp to the highway the car shut off and would't start back up... I thought that it may have had run out of gas. It had just under 1/4 tank so my first thought was that the gas gauge was inaccurate. The engine would turn over and crank, but it wouldn't fire up. Called the 511 HERO people to bring me some gas and they were there in about 15-20 mins. After pouring in a couple gallons it started right up and we were on the way. I, of course, filled up at the next exit... After about an hour of driving, I noticed the car having some acceleration issues while cruising and randomly losing power for a few seconds if I stepped on the pedal to pass someone. Eventually I had to come to a stop, and when I attempted to take off from the stop, I made it about 50 feet and the car died again. Same issue as when I thought it had run out of gas. Without knowing exactly what to do I opened the hood. {Now don't get me wrong, I'm pretty mechanically inclined, I've worked on most of my own vehicles and can do quite a bit, short of swapping engines. (Don't do anything with transmissions other than basic filter changes.) But when it comes to a rotary, I was a noob.} Looking around under the hood, I didn't see anything unusual. Get back in and turn it over and it simply cranks, but doesn't start up. It's about just under a half tank so I know it's not out of gas. Sitting there, my girls are asleep, so I pull up RX8club.com and start reading. After about 15 mins. I look under the hood again and take the radiator cap off. (No rhyme or reason, simply my mechanical curiosity.) Heard the pressure release when loosening it, but no antifreeze came out. The liquid inside the container looked very rusty. My first thought was "Wow, I need the change that when we get back." Put the cap back on and tried starting the car again and it fired right up without hesitation. Shut the hood and continued the trip... Made it to our destination and came back home the next day with the car shutting off a couple more times throughout........ skip forward to today...... Buying the car I knew it had 157k miles on the odometer. Previous owner put a new engine in it at 136k, and a new stock cat at 155k. The car now has 165k and I have done a tune up. (New plugs, wires, coils & cleaned the MAF.) New radiator, thermostat & replaced a few hoses. So obviously new antifreeze too. Original fluid was very rusty looking and smelled burned. Couldn't afford a new overflow container so I cleaned it out the best I could. New rear 02 sensor. (CE light was intermittently coming on and off. Had the code read at AZ to find out what it was. No more light after changing.) Have done most of the things suggested on this site, ie, cleaning and revamping the grounding contacts and cleaning the cabin filter (which was so clogged it looked like a flock of bird's had nested in there). The air bag lite was on when I purchased the car and this site helped me with getting it to go off. (Unplugging and replugging the harness under the driver's seat did the trick.) ..... After doing everything, I still had the issue of loss of power and cutting off after 1-2 hrs of constant driving. When I first start the car though, it runs great. (Instant start-up, speed, power, hyper-happy-over-enjoyment, it's all there.) From what I had read on this site, I thought what it needed was the MSP16 flash to fix it. So last week I took it to Jim Ellis Mazda off Cobb Pkwy in Marietta and they did the MSP16 flash recall and the airbag recall. A couple days later, I intentionally ran the car without shutting it off for over an hour and the stalling/shutting off issue is still there. The last thing I can think of to do would be to put on a new fuel pump. If the car shuts off, it won't start, it will only turn over. It will take about 15-20 minutes to sit before it will start up and run again. But what scares me is, if I loosen the radiator cap and relieve the pressure, the car will instantly start...... I would like to get a little guidance from the experts here before I spend the $300 on a new fuel pump.
Thank you in advance for the help + my apologies for the lengthy post,
Christian

learningdriver

I had a similar issue but without the shutting off a few months back when I first bought my 8, its an 04, and it only had about 94k on it, but it turns out that the previous owner was using a synthetic oil and it wasn't burning off like it was supposed to and it was causing some major issues with power, have you checked the oil? and if you are seeing rust in your antifreeze it may be a clog or something like that in one of the lines, I'd recommend checking that out, ive had cars simply stop running on the highway due to cooling issues before..

Colon Terminus

Sounds like fuel pump. When the stock fuel pump gets hot it just simply shuts off.

Audio Concepts ATL

I had first thought that maybe it could be the fuel pump. I was hoping that the MSP16 flash would have fixed it because some of the posts I've seen here have said that the flash fixed the "loss of power while driving" issues. But sadly it did not. It gets a bit better gas mileage tho. I'm now getting about 17-18 mpg instead of 15.
As far as the oil thing goes, I have just last week changed the oil for the second time since I bought the car. I use regular 5w30 oil. And there is absolutely no issues with power for the first hour of driving. Since my second gear's synchro is grinding, I will usually red line it in first and skip to third. One of the things I do love about driving this car is that at about 8k in third gear I'm doing 80mph. Getting on the highway last night I red lined the first 4 gears and was doing 105 in 4th. Heck, as long as I'm just driving to work or on a short 30-45 minute trip, there's never an issue.
I have noticed that the oil light comes on for (what I believe to be) no reason. I've been reading that the oil sensor needs to be changed. But since I need to drop the oil pan, from what I've read, I simply haven't gotten around to it yet. I don't know if that oil light is in some way related to the issue I'm having. My mind is thinking that maybe there's back pressure from the cooling system somehow getting in to and choking the engine, causing it to lose power. Then releasing the pressure by loosening the radiator cap is allowing it to start again. I've never heard of anything like that, but it's how I get my car running after it stops. Either loosen the radiator cap to relieve pressure or wait 15-20 minutes. That makes me hesitate to replace the fuel pump and leaves me scratching my head.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It's the fuel pump. Every classic symptom. Don't get distracted by the radiator cap bit. It's not related, i promise

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Longer: dying fuel pumps can easily provide 100% of pressure right up till they overheat and shut down. Longer highway driving usually exposes it, more time spent under load. Waiting for a bit lets it cool off, and it starts functioning normally, normally 15-20 min, though that is variable. Nearly all (but not quite all) of our fuel pump failures follow the same pattern, and nothing else does.

Audio Concepts ATL

Thank you. I just spoke with Paul at MazMart, which is who I went through to get my radiator for $60 less than AutoZone, and I'm getting a used fuel pump today with a warranty for $100, as opposed to a new one for $300. So I'll be putting that on this evening when it cools down.
I really do like living in Atlanta where I'm close to everything. It definitely helps.
Don't know how many people will read this, but if I could be a help to anyone on here or in the Atlanta area, I will share what knowledge I have acquired in my 41 years. I used to be a mechanic for 7 years before opening my own car audio company in 2003.

Audio Concepts ATL

Ok, almost a year later.... replacing the fuel pump fixed the issue. Yay! ..... but now there's something else.... of course.....
Riding down the highway, I passed over an object in the road which hit the gas tank as I went over it. Whatever it was, did not puncture the tank, but did partly tear one of the metal straps which holds the tank. Ever since my fuel gauge has not been working correctly. It moves, but when I fill up, it shows 1/2 tank. When I'm about 1/2 tank, it shows almost full. When I'm about empty, it shows about 3/4 full. Did the hard bump to the tank mess up the float somehow? Has anyone else ever had this issue?

NotAPreppie

There are actually two fuel level sensors in the tank; one for each side of the saddle.

The fuel pump is constantly drawing fuel from one side over to the other at the same time it pumps fuel towards the engine (some kind of venturi system). If fuel doesn't slosh over to the side without a pump, it will eventually empty before the side with the pump does.

Mazda's engineers did something odd with how the ECU treats the sensors to account for this.

If yours only shows half a tank when full and a full tank when at half, I'd bet one of the sensors was damaged.

Audio Concepts ATL

Well that sux. I haven't taken the passenger rear seat out yet to check for myself, but is there access to the other sensor in the tank similar to how you access the fuel pump on the driver's side? And would it be just as hectic to get to and change?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

It's basically the same...except there is a block off plate or lid instead of the pump. The level sensor is attached to the bracket on the lid

jerrymy

Hi everyone,

I am new here. Just curious about how many of you people here still owning the RX8? Do you still have the same passion for it as you have in the start?
... not sure if anyone still reading this thread?

Thank you.

New Yorker

Still have mine, purchased new in February, 2006. After 46K+ miles, still love her. And she seems more powerful than the day I brought her home.

jerrymy

Cool. Has she ever been sick all this while? I just bought mine (2nd hand manual) a year ago, a 2003 first batch model, and she has her engine overhauled at around 120000 KM. Other than the overhaul, all components are stock. The absorbers are weak, any recommendation? The coolant tank sensor float is bad too, so i have decided to modify an external capacitive sensor for the coolant level.

Actually mine has quite a bit of a problem. The Check Engine light is ON, I read it using OBD2 reader and showing P2008 code. I have searched online and it says something APV motor... anyone has experience on this?

New Yorker, did you modify your OMP with the SOHN adaptor?

UnknownJinX

I am still newish compared to most people.

I got bored of my Accord V6 in a year(thanks, 5AT), while I have my 8 for about 1 year 8 months now, so that's something.

Other than the gas mileage and maybe the more expensive parts(gotta pay to play.), I don't really have anything bad to say. Acceleration is reasonable enough. You can have fun without breaking the law.

Absorbers as in shocks? Then it depends on your needs. You can get some coilovers and tune them however you like.

APV motor controls the APV, which opens at high RPM to allow the engine to produce more power. Searching around the forums will likely yield you some answers.

jerrymy

I am glad that the 8 is still relevant till today even being on Earth for more than 15 years! I thought most would already have scrapped theirs but hell I'm wrong!
May I ask what modifications that you have for yours which improves its health and performance? Did you do the SOHN thingie?

UnknownJinX

Well, RX-7(all 3 generations) and BMW e30s have been around for way longer and you can still see them around.

I don't have much other than the BHR mid-pipe + HJS cat to shave off a bit of weight, and I don't want the ceramic unit to break or melt on me. You can do a full decat but you have to be able to live with that smell. Keep the OEM unit if it's good so you can pass emission tests.

Other than that, you can get some BHR coils. I currently just keep an eye on my OEM C coils.

I am also considering swapping a set of R3 Bilstein shocks to replace the softer GT units.

I can't install a SOHN adapter because I have a Series 2. I do add premix every tank, though, at the typical 1/2 ounce premix per gallon of gas rate.

jerrymy

That's cool. Being Series 2 means there's 3 oil injectors? Which also means a more reliable engine? I am not sure if my coils are weak, everytime during 1st gear, when i am about to move, the car will jerk at low throttle or low speed.. but after the car starts moving or at any other gear, the jerking goes away.. any ideas? My gearbox is the first version manual with the reverse next to the 6th gear..
Does decating the car hurts the gas consumption?

UnknownJinX

Theoretically, those help, but no one knows by how much extent. Some S2 engines still fail early.

If you jerk at low speed, it sounds like a problem with your driving techniques. How do you get off the line? You are supposed to release the clutch to the bite point and hold it there as you give it some throttle(about 1500 RPM will do it normally, go higher if you are on a hill). When you get to about 4 MPHish, you can slowly let the clutch out all the way.

The only problems with decatting are that it will give you a CEL(P0420) and it will smell pretty bad, but otherwise it won't affect your car negatively.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Welcome.
If you want to get more interactions, you should post in one of the discussion threads and not in a troubleshooting thread.

This is a good thread for discussions, if you haven't seen it yet;

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...-things-67045/

Brzenski III

algor54

I own a 2004 Mazda RX-8 and, lately, it's been an absolute money pit. Fun car to drive when it runs, but exceptionally unreliable. The check engine light went on about two months ago and the engine LOST POWER. The car has only 77,000 miles (I drove it to work, mostly, in California). Long story short, I shipped my beloved Blue Froggy (car is blue) to Germany, had it inspected by a Mazda RX-8 specialist, checked compression, ignition, the whole works, got a clean bill of health. Then, the check engine light came on as I was driving home one day, and the engine lost power, limped all the way home (scary moment). I took it to a Mazda dealership here in karlsruhe and, problem solved, right? WRONG. They changed the oil pump, the injectors, the plugs, the car ran for about 20 minutes and then the SAME THING HAPPENED. It's now at the mechanic, waiting for parts, the problem has been a head scratcher even for the mechanic (German), and I now own an expensive paper weight with no solution in sight. So, if and when it gets fixed I'm selling it, even though I love this car, as I've had it for 16 years, paid lots of money to have it shipped to Germany, and to have it die so soon after.