an RX8er's rebuild thread
#901
Registered
iTrader: (3)
before you tear it down--get a compression test and see if any faces are giving good compression. You can do this with a normal auto part store compression tester---see if you have equal numbers on all rotor faces. the numbers are not important right now--just that they are equal-or very close to equal.
before you jump on a tear down--MAKE SURE THIS IS THE PROBLEM.
I still wonder why it cranked so well the first time.
before you jump on a tear down--MAKE SURE THIS IS THE PROBLEM.
I still wonder why it cranked so well the first time.
#905
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
I'm sure your vacuum at idle hasn't changed much.
The better test is to see how much faster is the engine sucking in the 2 cycle oil through the service ports.
#906
The fact that it is starting on its own is a testament to that. Even if its not every time its still getting better.
I'm sure your vacuum at idle hasn't changed much.
The better test is to see how much faster is the engine sucking in the 2 cycle oil through the service ports.
I'm sure your vacuum at idle hasn't changed much.
The better test is to see how much faster is the engine sucking in the 2 cycle oil through the service ports.
#907
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Well Hoss-05 and I did unscientific test last night and used gorilla super glue and and glued two bolts together and then heated it up after it dried with a lighter and the SG almost immediately burned off and the bolts separated. So I highly doubt it stays put when the engine is fired up.
Just drive it man!
Just drive it man!
#908
part of me that wants to drive it to houston but there is a "small" responsible part of me that says......"are you sure you want to do that"
being that it runs great leads me to belive it would make it just fine but I would hate to ruin brand freaking new housings, irons, cryo seals, cryo springs
from all the conversations I have had there is 1 consistency. The car should be working as expected if I did everything correctly. That is obviously not the case
being that it runs great leads me to belive it would make it just fine but I would hate to ruin brand freaking new housings, irons, cryo seals, cryo springs
from all the conversations I have had there is 1 consistency. The car should be working as expected if I did everything correctly. That is obviously not the case
#909
well after an unplanned day on the lake yesterday I am wipped smooth out..... my "office job" legs are like jello and I dont think I could actually do any work on the 8 unless it was from my back.
I iwll get compression/vacuum results posted tomorrow but I am pretty convieneced (and accepting of) the motor has to come out
I iwll get compression/vacuum results posted tomorrow but I am pretty convieneced (and accepting of) the motor has to come out
#912
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Sucks--but you are learning a lot. I guess thats something positive to focus on?
Always learning---i am tearing my ignition harness apart and upgrading those coil skinny wires. I am also installing a kenne bell boost a spark . Cant decide to solder or to use high quality crimps. As far as i know no other rotary engine has used one of these.
Always learning something-- for me-- sometimes it is the hard way.
Still sucks
Always learning---i am tearing my ignition harness apart and upgrading those coil skinny wires. I am also installing a kenne bell boost a spark . Cant decide to solder or to use high quality crimps. As far as i know no other rotary engine has used one of these.
Always learning something-- for me-- sometimes it is the hard way.
Still sucks
#913
I am good with learning just wish it didnt take so long....
I have a meeting that I scheduled otherwise I would have skipped it, then I am off to get a compression tester and post some results...probably right after lunch. then I will start disassembing my baby again....glad I saved the baggies.....
kenne bell boost a spark is a cool concept, good luck! and btw....when possible....solder....lmao
I have a meeting that I scheduled otherwise I would have skipped it, then I am off to get a compression tester and post some results...probably right after lunch. then I will start disassembing my baby again....glad I saved the baggies.....
kenne bell boost a spark is a cool concept, good luck! and btw....when possible....solder....lmao
#916
I think no matter what after 400 miles the thing should start on its own
I will get the compression results and if confirmed I will start to tear the motor down and we can yank it out this week/weekend. While I wait on seals to get here I will re-clean everything and go from there.
I will get the compression results and if confirmed I will start to tear the motor down and we can yank it out this week/weekend. While I wait on seals to get here I will re-clean everything and go from there.
#917
well now that I have procrastinated due to being way out of shape I finaly got the compression tester this morning and plan on leaving a little early to see what comes of it.
so basically I screw this in to the leading plug, crank over the motor and record the result from each face (I assume I will have a read a bouncing needle???)
I dont assume the motor will run like the instructions say so that wont really work (and of course my compression issues are not at higher RPM)
so basically I screw this in to the leading plug, crank over the motor and record the result from each face (I assume I will have a read a bouncing needle???)
I dont assume the motor will run like the instructions say so that wont really work (and of course my compression issues are not at higher RPM)
#920
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
I can guarantee you that your compression is low. The only question at this point is if it's coming from the cryo seals initial wear in period, or is something fubar in there?
I'm still thinking the compression is getting more solid overtime. I'm thinking this because you are able to start it occasionally and the oil is being sucked through the service ports at a faster rate.
That said at what point will the compression stop increasing?
I'm still thinking the compression is getting more solid overtime. I'm thinking this because you are able to start it occasionally and the oil is being sucked through the service ports at a faster rate.
That said at what point will the compression stop increasing?
#921
Registered
Cryo seals? Are you not using only Mazda seals in this engine? I have a general rule in regards to engine building. If you can't afford Ianetti, you need to use factory Mazda. Nothing else exists.
#922
I can guarantee you that your compression is low. The only question at this point is if it's coming from the cryo seals initial wear in period, or is something fubar in there?
I'm still thinking the compression is getting more solid overtime. I'm thinking this because you are able to start it occasionally and the oil is being sucked through the service ports at a faster rate.
That said at what point will the compression stop increasing?
I'm still thinking the compression is getting more solid overtime. I'm thinking this because you are able to start it occasionally and the oil is being sucked through the service ports at a faster rate.
That said at what point will the compression stop increasing?
#925
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I read a ton of stuff on seals and ultimately decided on OEM's (except coolant seals) even though Pineapple was pushing Ianetti's. No one has put more R&D into them than Mazda. But you know what they say about opinions.