Renesis engine issues finally identified?
03-06-2008, 06:47 AM
#201
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It's impossible to predict how much greater longevity these improvements will provide the 2009 engines or how many fewer engine problems, but presumably Mazda is fixing what they feel to be a problem. For me, the longevity issue is important, because I like to keep a car as long as I can--hence my 1993 daily driver Miata!
03-06-2008, 07:07 AM
#202
Honestly, even if Mazda made no recommendation as to which type of oil to use, I'd probably still use conventional over synthetic. This is because of the simple fact that the engine is designed to BURN some oil, not just be lubricated by it. Seems to me that synthetic isn't made to burn, it's made to lubricate...it may be perfectly fine, but seems to me, regular old petroleum would be the best for burnin'! 
The desire to use conventional oil over synthetic is similar to touting the advantages of using a Zinc carbon battery over Alkaline. It's cheaper, but that's virtually the only positive.
03-06-2008, 07:21 AM
#203
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You can believe your theory and go on your merry way, or you can research the topic and find out that synthetic oil burns cleaner than conventional and come to the correct conclusion.
The desire to use conventional oil over synthetic is similar to touting the advantages of using a Zinc carbon battery over Alkaline. It's cheaper, but that's virtually the only positive.
The desire to use conventional oil over synthetic is similar to touting the advantages of using a Zinc carbon battery over Alkaline. It's cheaper, but that's virtually the only positive.
Such hostilities in the oil debates....it's usually why I skip even reading these threads.
I could research it, but conventionals have gotten many a well-maintained and nicely-driven car to 200,000 miles or more. The question remains that which is better for THESE cars...may never be answered. NOW I'll go on my merry way.
03-06-2008, 07:27 AM
#204
03-06-2008, 07:31 AM
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I am happy you used the correct "you're" though...beers?
I'm just Mr. Pessimism, you know? I know the oil companies are after my money, that's all. I probably don't keep cars long enough for it to even matter anyways!
I'm just Mr. Pessimism, you know? I know the oil companies are after my money, that's all. I probably don't keep cars long enough for it to even matter anyways!
03-06-2008, 07:35 AM
#206
hehe. BTW, no hostility intended on my part. Just typing quickly between showers and getting dressed before going to work.
03-06-2008, 09:07 AM
#208
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4 stroke oil aren't designed to burn. 2 stroke oils are. Synthetic 4 stroke oils just happen to burn cleaner than conventional oil. It's a myth that they don't.
03-06-2008, 07:42 PM
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Probably so. I'm not basing by statement on any info or anything...just one of those weird things that you would think...just seems like petroleum-based would burn easier/better. Not that I fully believe that anyways...
03-08-2008, 02:54 AM
#210
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That aside, and the expectation that all owners maintain their oil regularly (3k miles) or by Mazda's recommendation of every 6k (Yeah wtf..) on 5w20.
The sources or methods of resolving heat spots come up. So with oil being left out of the equation with 'my' assumpetion they've done benchmark tests with mineral oil. What other methods could they have 'changed' to manage this? (PCM Reflash to OMP settings)... because there's no way in CAFE (HECK) that Ford is going to sway and bump their 'recommendation' to 5w30, and get a 1-2mpg rating lose...
Now here's an odd question, Will this revision be world wide or just USA? Are japanese owners & UK Owners experiencing the same thing?
03-09-2008, 07:11 AM
#212
Redline SI-1 is a very good Poly Ethyl Amine (PEA)-based cleaner like Techron and Gummout Regane, so it cleans very well with the added benefit of some lubricity included.
On using the RL 2-cycle - they make excellent 2-cycles (like everything else), but most are made for motorcycles, boats, snomobiles that do NOT have cats and RL loves to use lots and lots of ZDDP in their 2-cycles. This high ZDDP levels provides great wear protection , but WILL kill you cat pretty quickly.
Before I would consider any RL 2-cycle, I would contact them to see if any of their 2-cycles are considered cat-safe as all of the ones I have seen oil analysis performed on are not.
On using the RL 2-cycle - they make excellent 2-cycles (like everything else), but most are made for motorcycles, boats, snomobiles that do NOT have cats and RL loves to use lots and lots of ZDDP in their 2-cycles. This high ZDDP levels provides great wear protection , but WILL kill you cat pretty quickly.
Before I would consider any RL 2-cycle, I would contact them to see if any of their 2-cycles are considered cat-safe as all of the ones I have seen oil analysis performed on are not.
According to Redline their 2-cycle oils are catalytic converter SAFE.
I will be trying my weird idea of mixing Redline 2-cycle oil with Redline SI-1 gas additive to get a bit of extra lubrication with cleaning. EDIT- Decided to go with Lucas UCL instead of mixing oils.
Last edited by sosonic; 04-23-2008 at 05:11 AM.
03-09-2008, 04:05 PM
#213
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I experimented with some pre-mix on my last trip to LA and back. I'd posted before that I hadn't seen any difference in performance or fuel economy, but this time I did. The difference, I premixed at the 200:1 ratio (actually added 10 oz per full fill up). While MPG only picked up 1/2 mile per gallon more than without premix (or even at a lower pre-mix level), the response and feel of the engine was quite noticeable. My best guess is that there's 3-5 horsepower difference between 200:1 premix and no premix.
My Renesis goes a LONG way before it uses 1 quart of oil... and is at 20,000 miles right now.
My Renesis goes a LONG way before it uses 1 quart of oil... and is at 20,000 miles right now.
03-09-2008, 06:09 PM
#214
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I experimented with some pre-mix on my last trip to LA and back. I'd posted before that I hadn't seen any difference in performance or fuel economy, but this time I did. The difference, I premixed at the 200:1 ratio (actually added 10 oz per full fill up). While MPG only picked up 1/2 mile per gallon more than without premix (or even at a lower pre-mix level), the response and feel of the engine was quite noticeable. My best guess is that there's 3-5 horsepower difference between 200:1 premix and no premix.
My Renesis goes a LONG way before it uses 1 quart of oil... and is at 20,000 miles right now.
My Renesis goes a LONG way before it uses 1 quart of oil... and is at 20,000 miles right now.
Of course it must be asked, how can you feel 3-5 hp?
03-09-2008, 10:07 PM
#215
We must remember that the oil injected never really burns, it dose not spend enough time in the combustion chamber. This is why when a car is burning oil you see blue smoke which is just vaporized oil. If it did burn you would not smell that oil smell. so I wouldn't worry about the premix.
03-10-2008, 05:42 AM
#216
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- The RENESIS rotary engine now provides an enhanced acceleration feel at middle to low-engine speeds due to various improvements such as new water and oil pumps. These changes also contribute to improved durability and stability.
Could you Rotarygod, tell us some more about that?
Pleeeease !
Cheers
jird20
03-10-2008, 09:14 AM
#217
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The oil metering pump as far as I know is now all electric. It's no longer mounted in the traditional place on the front cover where it's been for 30 years. I have no idea if the actual oil pump itself is different. The water pump has a new impeller design.
03-10-2008, 10:26 AM
#219
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Even the best Mazda waterpumps would cavitate about 7000 rpm without being under driven. Mazmart's doesn't suffer this fate. I'm willing to bet that while it's probably an improvement over the craptastic one that's been on the car, it's probably still not Mazmart's equal. There is an awful lot of middle ground to make up.
03-10-2008, 10:32 AM
#220
Do we know the flow rates for 2-5k rpm of the oem vs mazmart's?
I've stayed away from the mazmart water pump because I do not track and I'm not in the 8-9k rpm area for more than a few seconds, so captivation at those rpms does not bother me.
If there are improvements in the mid and low rpm ranges, then the pump would interest me.
I've stayed away from the mazmart water pump because I do not track and I'm not in the 8-9k rpm area for more than a few seconds, so captivation at those rpms does not bother me.
If there are improvements in the mid and low rpm ranges, then the pump would interest me.
