I'm a Sailor so I curse like one :lol:

Im trying out 1/8" Viton tubing for my OMP lines since I had to do a relocation. Ill let you guys know how that goes. Seems to be ok sofar. As for that check valve, I looked at a schematic and it looked a little more like a pop off valve. Im not totaly sure, gotta look around for that schematic again.

Bump :)

Greeting rotor heads.

Well, if it is doable, I would like to replace those tubes from omp to injectors, too.
They aren't that flexible as I thought before I moved them around until I installed mop adapter, and they are touching/contacting with coolant hose clamp, which I don't like.

P.s. Just installed mine two days ago, the air in tubes would that be clear away while I am driving the car? I premix approximately 8 oz for whole tank for safe when there aren't any oil to lubricat and burn.
Thanks

I squeezed my two stroke tank until the line to the adapter was full. I wouldn't drive around until it fills up, that's for sure. At least you premix though.

Just squeeze the line like a pump, the air bubble should rise up the line assuming your reservoir is mounted the right way. You want a direct path down from the reservoir to the SOHN as possible.

Good thread. Thanks 9k.

plus 1, this is definitely a must read thread.
I will go try and squeez the tank, see if i can get thos air out or not.
I placed my tank next to windshield fluid tank, that's the only space I could find to squeez in a 1.5 qt tank for oil.
Thanks again for your help. Beodude and 9krpmrx8.

Just asking...but would using seafoam clean up the oil lines? Seafoam states it can be used for cleaning oil systems.

Just do the OMP adapter, and you'll be good to go. Nice clean oil will start flowing through the lines pretty quickly.

Not unless you remove the lines and run seafoam through them. Otherwise there is no way to get seafoam in them. And if you are going to remove them you might as well replace them and the oil injectors.

id be a little worried abotu running seafoam through there not sure how it would react to the diaphragms in the injectors.

Yeah and If you are going to remove them to clean them then you might as well replace them anyway.

Now that I remember correctly I did blast mine with carb cleaner so Seafoam would be fine. Actually it would be better since it wont dry out the seals as much.

But even then only one of the 3 stuck ones got slightly un-stuck, so I had to replace them anyway.

So is there going to be a DIY step by step? That will help me a lot since it will be the first time I really work on something in the rotary engine bay.

My oil consumption dropped from normal to 0 after the last oil change. I am guessing this is the issue? I am premixing 1 oz pre gallon now, but localized lube is needed asap. I am wondering though if it is the injectors, there are 4 of them, the drop in the oil consumption should be gradual not abrupt right?

Yes, it shouldn't just go from normal to zero. Sounds kind of like your OMP died. I'd do maybe a bit more than 1oz per gallon, and then get your OMP replaced. The location of the oil injectors is pretty important, and you really really need to get lubrication in there, more than just with premix.

I have the same experience with my 231hp Rex.
When it was new and without premixing I had a steady OMP consumption of approx 1/4 Gallon per 2.000 mls (with moderate driving style).
When I started premix 1:250 at 6.000 mls on the odometer the OMP consumption (obviously just seemed) to "decrease" instantly..............
Shortly after that I decided to increase the amount and since I premix with 1 Oz per Gallon (1:128) it just "seems" on the oil dipstick that I have no 4 stroke oil consumption at all any more.........the level on the dipstick remains the same; there even is a tendency to increase slightly...........(today 13.000 mls on the odo)
Fortunately I did read some time ago a message / article (sorry I have no link) from a rotary-aircraft-pilot.......... he reported that he and other pilots experienced that with heavy premixing {for aircraftrotaries 1:85 premix (without OMP) conform manufacturers requirement} they noticed that the 4 stroke oil amount in the rotaryengine did increase to such an extend that they had to tap oil regularely to remain the level under maximum.
Obviously with heavy premixing a part of the 2 stroke premixoil becomes dissolved in the 4 stroke oil.
In my personal situation (with 1:128) the dissolved amount is approx. equal to the regular consumption of the OMP and the 4 stroke oillevel remains equal.
In some way this does influence the viscosity of the engine oil; however the viscosity of most 2 strokeoils is within the range of a regular 5W30 4 stroke oil........nevertheless I change my oil more freguent at 5.000 mls (Mazda-Europe requires 12.500 mls).

Best regards, Ruud

not sure how would 2 stroke oil mix with regular oil..whatever is injected in the combustion chamber gets burned, it doesn't get drained back to the sump.

I can't even read all that mostly but if you are getting zero consumption it is likely the oil injectors. If you oil metering pump failed, the PCM would put your car into limp mode (no power) and you would get a CEL.

For some reason I though that if it was connected, the computer thought it was good. Maybe it was actual output that it doesn't care about. I couldn't remember.

Interesting Rudolph. In that case it would justify my slow 4 stroke oil consumption. I had oil change on 6/2, then I premixed 1 oz per gallon when I had autocross on 6/5, and after that I returned to 1/2 oz per gallon. I checked dipstick on 6/9 and I think I might have read the wrong side of dipstick lol so I thought the level is 3mm below full but it might have been 3mm before the 'top' of the wrong side of dipstick. I then took a long distance highway drive ~400 miles and when I returned the oil level is 3mm below full (this time I'm sure). Yesterday I waited an hour after the engine shut off before I checked the dipstick and it's in the same spot. Then I posted here. Then I thought maybe the oil level increases with time so today I checked again and it's at around 8mm below full.

So if 1. I misread the dipstick the first time 2. The oil consumption on highway is really low 3. oil level on dipstick increases with time after the engine is shut off and 4. premix got into the 4 stroke, then it is still burning oil. I have been driving the car a little soft lately because the weather maybe that will contribute as well. Anyway I will change the injector when I get a chance but I guess it can wait a little longer. (moving to a place with garage now. :) )

Quite a lot of assumption and quite a lot of rambling. Sorry guys. :P

Oh btw a question. How much is the oil level below full if the read on dipstick is half way between full and empty? I forgot but I remember seeing a diagram somewhere and the mark on the dipstick is not linear.

nope, that that depends how it failed, but this thread still fails regardless ...

First off this thread rules. Secondly, you are actually right, I should have said that it should put your car in limp mode but there have been reports of failed OMP's without limp mode (I think Dannobre had that issue). Either way, no oil consumption is bad and failed OMP's are not a common occurrence as far as I know.


:ylsuper:

See link:
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...5&d=1295339727

Best regards,
Ruud

This is what I was looking for. Thanks!

Now let's hope I misread the dipstick and the car is actually burning oil...time to drive hard to accelerate the results!

Looking at buying and RX8...

How often should the oil lines/OMP/oil injectors be replaced?

(will be my first time owning a rotary!)

before replacing your OMP injectors I would try to run some seafoam trough them. That might do the trick..use the OMP line from the throttle body boot:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/optional-ports-seafoam-omp-nozzle-cleaning-217177/

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1274140084

http://lolwut.com/layout/lolwut.jpg

There is so set answer for this but mine were done at about 124,000. The lines were very brittle and broke and the oil injectors failed testing.

is picture I posted not clear enough? there is slight vacuum on that line so you can suck in seafoam with it and it should clean the omp injectors..I think doing it is a good preventive maintenance to ensure fully operational OMP nozzles.

from my other thread:
"okay so i tried the OP's idea out and heres my results. I took the vacuum line from the intake accordion that leads to the OMP nozzles. i noticed it had some suction to it but NOT like normal engine idle vacuum from behind the throttle plate. but with my thumb over it it definetly had some kind of suction to it. SO i poured about one tablespoon in it and went to the back of the car and smelled the seafoam being burned so i went and poured about an ounce of seafoam into the vacuum line. the engine started to stumble very slightly so i put my thumb over the tube again and let it build negative pressure and then released my thumb to let the seafoam continue thru the nozzles. Results oil consumtion wise is that my oil level dropped more than normal. BUT by normal that was MY car which has had low oil consumption so now i have stopped premixing and just let it be. as for idle it idles a little higher than 800 now. prior was steady at 775-800ish now its solid above 800-875ish. sorry no compresion tester here."

Sorry buddy, but have you ever had one of these injectors in your hands? If it fails the vacuum test it fails the vacuum test it is because the internal seals have failed. Putting seafoam in them is not likely going to help fix them and sure as hell will not prevent them from dieing. Not to mention there is no real vacuum there. And even if you poured seafoam down in there I doubt it would have enough pressure to make it all the way through the injector. But I have them laying around, I will do an experiment just for you.

Go back and read pages 1-2 of this thread.

I slightly free'd one up by spraying it with carb cleaner and letting it sit overnight. Even then it still wasn't completely free, once these things get stuck they are pretty much cooked.

what if they are not working properly due to the oil/crud/carbon deposits..either way it will not hurt him to try it before replacing parts. running seafoam trough the OMP nozzles will clean them and their respective lines. it is simple and easy to do..all it takes is a can of seafoam and some time. I would do it 3 times couple days apart by using the 1/3 of the bottle each time since these deposits can be stubborn and it might take more then one try to dissolve them.

You need to take a good look at the system man, you are missing some info. Even if you can get the seafoam to the injectors (highly doubtful) there is no way for the seafoam to get into the omp lines. Not mention the plastic vacuum block that all the OMP vacuum lines feed off of is also prone to getting brittle and I am not sure how well it would take to having seafoam sitting in it.

read this again:

from my other thread:
"okay so i tried the OP's idea out and heres my results. I took the vacuum line from the intake accordion that leads to the OMP nozzles. i noticed it had some suction to it but NOT like normal engine idle vacuum from behind the throttle plate. but with my thumb over it it definetly had some kind of suction to it. SO i poured about one tablespoon in it and went to the back of the car and smelled the seafoam being burned so i went and poured about an ounce of seafoam into the vacuum line. the engine started to stumble very slightly so i put my thumb over the tube again and let it build negative pressure and then released my thumb to let the seafoam continue thru the nozzles. Results oil consumption wise is that my oil level dropped more than normal. BUT by normal that was MY car which has had low oil consumption so now i have stopped premixing and just let it be. as for idle it idles a little higher than 800 now. prior was steady at 775-800ish now its solid above 800-875ish. sorry no compression tester here."

Whatever man, you are just not getting it. You have never taken this stuff apart so maybe that is why you don't see it.

The oil nozles have a ball and seat type valve in them....

I had good luck cleaning them in an ultrasonic bath and then carefully blowing them out with compressed air

You have to be careful with the air though..you can easily stick the valve open with too much air pressure. If they don't hold vac...try carefully blowing air in them to loosen the ball and you can be good to go. I had 6 of 8 fail the vac test....and the cleaning got them all working properly. I then used some high temp silicone to lubricate the ball valve So far they seem good to go :)

Yeah I was going to cut one open this weekend just to see exactly what was inside but either way they can't be cleaned by pouring sea foam down the vacuum hose while the engine is running.

I say they can..read in bold letters:

"okay so i tried the OP's idea out and heres my results. I took the vacuum line from the intake accordion that leads to the OMP nozzles. i noticed it had some suction to it but NOT like normal engine idle vacuum from behind the throttle plate. but with my thumb over it it definetly had some kind of suction to it. SO i poured about one tablespoon in it and went to the back of the car and smelled the seafoam being burned so i went and poured about an ounce of seafoam into the vacuum line. the engine started to stumble very slightly so i put my thumb over the tube again and let it build negative pressure and then released my thumb to let the seafoam continue thru the nozzles. Results oil consumption wise is that my oil level dropped more than normal. BUT by normal that was MY car which has had low oil consumption so now i have stopped premixing and just let it be. as for idle it idles a little higher than 800 now. prior was steady at 775-800ish now its solid above 800-875ish. sorry no compression tester here."

it is clear that seafoam was getting into combustion chamber trough the OMP nozzles, hence they can be cleaned with it..

Okay :lol: If you say so.

It might help...but it won't clean them out completely. It can't access the area the oil feed comes from....the only real way to clean is the ultrasonic bath...like they clean fuel injectors

as i understood it the vacuum was built from in intake side of that hose... not the OMP side.

Well I will let you guys fight and mean while wait to see if I'm really burning oil...lol

I am going to try it myself. my point is: if you clean OMP whenever you seafoam your car (which should be at least once a year) that will prevent OMP clogging in the first place..just like with everything else prevention is the way to go!

Yeah well another noob in his thread tried it and it worked. What do you know? :lol:

I can see what he is saying ... I think I would agree as long as it is only in the preventative maintenance category

lol I like the way my coworker look at me when I tell them I'm worried that my car is not burning oil

Hey 9k,
In your first post you recommend replacing the omp oil lines, with what?
Did you use the same OEM lines purchased from the dealer or did you use something else?
(admittedly I've not spent the time to read this entire thread)

I've got my OMP table cranked and my oil consumption (or lack there of) is has me ... well ... lets just say I'm keeping an eye on it. (I am heavily premixing atm)

I've been to onlinemazdaparts.com and mazmart.com and can't find the oil injectors.
Where do you get these things or are they called something else in the parts world?

Thanks .... I'm playing my lazy card today (I had one saved up)

Think they are N3H114631B, someone let me know if that's not right and I'll delete this post!

Also see................... http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/sh...&searchString=

Then I found this as well...............

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1308966186

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1308966186