I replaced them with factory OMP lines, I don't think doing custom lines is worth it, the factory lines will last at least 100,000 miles and fit perfectly.

I have to agree with Nadrealista about cleaning the oil injectors via that vacuum line. I also tried this out awhile back and have seen drastic changes in oil consumption.

Before this I consumed about 0.8qts of oil per 2,000 miles. (5w-30)
Last oil change I consumed 1.5qts per 2,000 miles (10w-40)
I have already consumed about 0.5qts on this oil (600 miles)

Thats a HUGE difference. Sure it could be something else, but my driving habits are pretty much set in stone, so I really believe this did something.

The only thing I did different was use 1/2 a can of seafoam instead of a few ozs.

-Shawn

I knew it would work! :us4allswi


did you just let is suck in the seafoam at idle or did you rev the engine up?

Again guys, there is no real vacuum there. Once the seafoam reaches the plastic vacuum distribution block (not sure if you know what I am talking about) then how do you explain how the seafoam would be distributed to each oil injector evenly? The seafoam would have to flow accross it, distribute evenly to each port (not possible, it would take the path of least resistance), and then travel back up, thru the vacuum line to each injector, and then work it's way through the injector itself. I realize you think it works, whatever.

But there is a separate thread for this so please take your discussion about you method of cleaning the injectors there and I will comment in that thread.

where does the seafoam go then?
OD

Dead side seal again this weekend in our SII engine.

Bugger. :(

That's a fair few now that have died of that!

dang dude--sorry to hear that.

what? I thought series 2 is invinsible?

I dunno, I think if you put enough in there it may work its way through and go to the first oil injector inline, but the way the little black vacuum box is made, there is no way that I can see for the seafoam to distribute evenly to each oil injector since its not designed to route liquid. If you put enough I guess you would be able to clean the first oil injector in line (or whichever one the liquid found its way too) but honestly I just think it would sit there until it evaporated.

To me, it is a risk because I'm not sure what a good amount of seafoam would do to that little plastic vacuum block if it is already old and brittle from the heat. Not to mention brittle old vacuum lines.

That sucks, how many hours on the motor?

No motor is invincible, especially not in an off-road race buggy :lol:

Hmmm --i need to look at my system. I know the lines are good and I am using oil. But you never know?

9k, can you please explain more on how "the little black box" is made since you have seen it?

I understand what you are saying, but I don't see how only one can get seafoam and not the rest if you pour enough in. A photo would really help if possible.

Also, do you know if the box can be accessed (or atleast seen) with the alt removed?

Sorry not trying to thread jack you or anything like that.

Thanks
-Shawn

Well I should explain I guess. If you put in enough to fill the entire line, the vacuum distribution block, and the vacuum lines to the injectors I guess you could physically get the seafoam to the injectors but that is beside the point really because there is still be no vacuum there to suck it all through.

And no, the vacuum block is held in place by the fuel rail, the UIM needs to be removed to get to it.

This post pretty much explains how would seafaom go trough the nozzle..when the seafoam is introduced it floods the "black box"..then each nozzle sucks in seafoam instead of air which manifests itself by engine wanting to stall. one should actually be able to observe green seafoam moving trough the air supply line(if they are visible without removing parts) to the each nozzle?

Jesus Christ. Please explain how each nozzle sucks (in your own thread please). delete and copy your posts on the subject to your thread on the subject. Thanks.

Forgive me if I've got the wrong end of the stick here, but the Mazda manual says if the injectors suck anything in through the vacuum point then they are broken and need replacing. If it can suck seafoam in through point 1 in the drawing above, you need to be throwing them away and buying new ones surely.

Re: the failure theory - my '04 4 port with 44,000 miles looks to be putting too little oil in through the injectors and runs badly without premix. This started about 12 months ago.

Smart guy :) It would be more leaking down then sucking though.

Yes, I noticed right away that my consumption was down. You don't have a lot of miles but the components are aged for sure. Premix should help but remember the function of the oil injectors also aids in cooling as well. How much is debatable but personally I would never eliminate the OMP systems and strictly use premix. That is why I still premix 1/2oz per gallon of fuel even though I have the SOHN adapter injecting clean 2 stroke.

vacuum tests the check valve which prevents anything getting out of the nozzle trough the port 1 where seafoam is getting sucked into the nozzle.

9krpmrx8 take it easy man, I think what we are discussing here is actually quite relevant to your thread topic.

:lol: I always take it easy. But the focus of this thread is not trying to clean oil injectors using your method. You have a separate thread for that.

I know but some reason I just like posting in this one :-)

Bastard.

It's done about 55-60 hours race use and maybe 15-20 testing, almost exactly the same as the previous series one engine :(

Was it the spring that failed?

I think so, not ripped it to pieces yet, it was the side seal on the previous ones and going by the other experiences on here it does point towards the springs...

Hmmm. So when are you making iconical (sic) springs?

No idea, don't have the money for a rebuild/new engine and the next event is 4 weeks away.
Might just throw a different engine in it + sell it.

Can't afford a service list that includes a new engine every 8 events!

Yeah, that's tough. I'm glad you have stuck it out with the rotary but the rebuild costs are crazy when you could probably run something far more reliable I am sure.

It's a beautiful engine for that car though, I can't think of anything else that is going to give the same balance of power, torque and usable rpm range, in that size package for the suspension/handling.
Just a pity there seems to be an inherent flaw for our race use. I'd love to see if I can sort it with inconel springs, but the intention was to do that to the spare engine as and when funds allowed.

Worst bit is, managed to limp it around to finish and I'm pretty sure we're up to second in the championship even after that. Doh!

That sucks man.

I guess a Series 2 Engine failure thread is in order..perhaps side seal springs wont cut it will do.
Considering there is no change between S1 and S2 in this area of sealing* what does one expect ...for a buggy?

*Unless engine was made from February, 2009...where Side Seal Spring was modified.

Bummer Phil!

How could anything get sucked through to the injector when the OMP keeps positive pressure on the injector? I know it's not a lot, but still, it doesn't make sense. Vacuum on one side won't overcome a physical pump on the other.

To be honest, we had that first engine rather hot a few times whilst we nailed the cooling and EGTs down, so we put the side seal failure on that one down to that. However, it appears that's not the case...

Just realised I put this in the wrong thread, thought I was in the general engine failure one, doh!

Ding, Ding, Ding.

but again where does the seafoam go?--maybe it is sucked back up the intake after that line is reattached?
OD

Oh, it most definitely would be. Not to mention the car would idle like shit with the line disconnected unless the port on the accordion tube was plugged.

You guys amaze me sometimes.....

None of you have tried it, but you all seem to know for fact it won't work.

Please explain how on earth seafoam would not get sucked in from the oil injectors AND somehow magically reverse the flow in the line and go back to the throttle body? Remember, the hose connects before the trottle plate so there is nothing there (no vacuum in accordion tube) to make the seafoam travel back... Not to mention it was already burned up by the engine prior to reconnecting the line.
If I pour seafoam down the line the engine stumbles, and odor becomes present. That would suggest it was being injected into the motor since the line was disconnected from the intake.

Was yesterday make shit up and call it facts day??

If so, Can you please pass the pipe this way? I could really use some seafoam that has the ability to teleport itself from one location to another.

I wish y'all would take the 5mins to try it out...

-Shawn

I think 9k may be right in saying that you effectively only clean 1 injector tho ... not ALL of them

in the end people believe what they want to believe

I thought it would work, Shawn proved that it does.
we shared our idea/experiences with forum and they can try it for them selves or not...I could care less honestly.

personally I am glad we found another way to eliminate one more potential cause of renesis high mortality by keeping the OMP nozzles clean.

I agree, that is very probable. But like I said in the other thread...

If you pour in seafoam faster than 1,2, or 3 injectors can suck up then all 4 would see seafoam... Would it be the same amount per injector? NO, but all 4 would see "some" seafoam.

-Shawn

I don't have to do it to know it won't work. I understand the system. Obviously you do not understand it based on your comments. The throttle plate is never fully closed. When the engine is idling there is always a vacuum in the accordion tube. How would the engine run without any incoming air? Not to mention that as soon as you disconnect the hose from the accordion to pour seafoam down it, the engine would stumble due the vacuum leak unless you plugged the hole in the accordion tube.

Why do I have to keep repeating that? Is this really that hard to understand?

"The throttle plate is never fully closed so when the engine is idling there is a vacuum in the accordion tube." - EPIC FAIL

hook up a gauge to one of the ports on the throttle body boot and report back how much "vacuum" your car makes at idle..or any rpm for that matter...

:lol: Dude, just stop. So your saying at idle the engine is pulling no air in and the throttle plate is full closed?

That is the only useful piece of information over the past 3 days.

:lol: I wish I could delete other members posts. Then I would delete mine and make all the madness go away.

LOL it haunts you I know!

there is venturi vacuum in the accordian tube only--not a true vacuum as normally thought of in reference to the engines health.
The omp system does confuse me. I do know if you remove that intake line from the omp your car will use a lot more oil. There is actually a TSB on it.
there is a check valve in an omp nozzle and maybe that is what is clogging up?
It should be easy to do a test--just hook up a vacuum tube to the end of one and see if it is open?
This would be worthwhile confirming---because if it does work then that could be a VERY helpful thing.
By design I agree with 9K (lol 8K just kidding) that it is not supposed to work, but i have seen stranger things and the man says his attempt did work.
Anyone have a nozzle laying around?

Man, I keep getting sucked in :lol:

I have a few laying around and I understand what you are saying about the way things should work and the way they actually work. I understand he believes his test worked because his car started to idle rough and he smelled the seafoam burning :rolleyes: But here are my questions.

1. Did he plug the open port on the accordion while doing this "test"? He didn't mention doing so, so I doubt he did. That alone would cause the idle to decrease and the car would stumble from the vacuum leak as soon a she removed the hos e from the accordion tube.

2. At what point did he plug the vacuum hose back into the accordion tube? As soon as he did this, any seafoam in the tube, vacuum block, etc. would be sucked into the engine and burned.

For the next useful bit, where's the engine production date code stamped? 'cause this was out of a late '09 car...