he is correct

EDIT: I am no longer posting here

I am not doubting the seafom making it through the injectors, I am doubting it doing anything and fixing a stuck injector. Also as 9k mentioned the liquid would take the path of least resistance.

The only solution is to buy new ones or used ones that aren't failed. You can attempt to clean them but that will require soaking them in parts cleaner for an hour or so then spraying them with carb cleaner.

I'll be farting around with my car tonight removing my failed midpipe. I'll take some vacuum readings to put this BS to rest.

I read somewhere that you can mix Seafoam with motor oil. Perhaps that will help clean out the oil injectors?

Is that a no-no?

It's not worth the possible damage it could cause by destroying the oil film.

while you are at it also hook up a gauge to the line going to OMP..my guess is that there will be some vacuum there.

So your theory is that there is vacuum at the oil injector end and at the intake side right?

Oh, and you didn't respond about there being vacuum at the intake side in front of the throttle plate. Are you going to admit you are wrong? Or are you still standing by you "epic fail" comment?

Either way, if you use the Sohn adapter, you will probably be a million times less to get jacked up injectors. Once dirt and gunk gets in there, it probably takes it's toll.

I understand air is always flowing while the engine is running. But the only way to create a readable vacuum is to have some type of resistance. (exp - clogged air filter).

Since there is only a very very slight vacuum in the accordian tube, the engine only develops a slight miss when leaking from this point (only at low rpms though..)

I'm sure you already know all that though.


-Agreed



:scratchhe

-Agreed.




Sure didn't.



I think long enough for the smell to go away after a few revs would be a good call.




I did the same right after work. Here are my results, please share yours too. :smoker:

Also, It did smoke this time but only on the first rev, wasn't much.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTFf6DeOIEE


-Shawn

You cant know by Engine Number 'code'....only Vehicle Chassis or Vin #, if you have it, I can tell you exactly when your 09 engine was made.

:lol: Wrong thread (I guess) but thanks for finally answering my questions. My car nearly dies when the tube is removed from the accordion tube. Weird.

I still don't understand how there is full vacuum (there should not be) of 15 at the oil injectors but your video speaks for itself I guess :dunno:

Now I will definitely be doing this when I get home :lol:


Are you consuming any oil at all?

Please post your results, there could be something wrong with my car, I wouldn't really know. I've only owned this car for 7 months.

-Shawn

Are you consuming any oil at all? Also, I have two other 8's at the house to test this on as well.

Bump...

Oh man, shit just got real.

^ Na man its not like that. I just want facts, I'm not the smarts person here. But you can see why I want to discuss it, with the end result being a fact. Wouldn't it be great if this actually could help someone with low oil consumption problems, and prolong engine life?

@9k -

Yes, but very little at first. In fact so little I called my only friend with an 8 (owned it for about 5 years now.) To see if it was normal, he said it sounded a little low but it could be my driving habits.

The first 300 miles on the car I changed the oil 3 times to get sort of a flush.
After...
I burned about....
- 0.5qts in 2,000 miles. (5w-30)
- 0.8qts in 2,000 miles (5w-30)
- 1.5qts in 2,000 miles (10w-40) (I performed the first try somewhere in this oil change)
- 0.5qts in 800 miles (10w-40) (Current oil, will be checking level next fill-up)


-Edit-
Driving habits are pretty normal for an 8 owner, I think. Warms up for about a min maybe less (summer time). Very light driving till about 15mins into my trip. 4-5k normal shifting/driving. +8k pull maybe every other day, or when/where permitted.


-Shawn

But on a serious note, wasn't there a TSB regarding installing a series II accordion tube on a series I resulting in excess oil consumption? This was due to the fact that there is engine vacuum applied to the oil metering nozzles. The tube on the intake is there to counteract the engine vacuum with intake manifold vacuum. It makes sense to see vacuum on the OMP side.

-Lawrence

Just kidding about that Shawn, not calling you a smart ass or anything. In fact I appreciate that you brought this up, as I have never seen this issue discussed on this forum.

Your consumption seems normal now. It doesn't seem normal for there to be that much vacuum at the oil injector nozzle at high RPM, seems like the oil would be sucked right out. Beside everything i have read indicates there should not be. However, what should be and what is are two different things.

If I'm wrong, i'm wrong, it's no skin off my back so long as I learn something.

Now I'm off to go prove you wrong!! :lol:

I await defeat. :D:

Thank you Shawn!

you have confirmed everything I have said...

1. there is no vacuum in the throttle body boot, that was pretty obvious but some had doubts :-)

2. there is vacuum on the OMP nozzles hose that connects to TBB

3. seafoam sucked in this hose makes its way trough OMP nozzles into combustion chamber

some of you might wonder how is the vacuum in the OMP hose created when there is a check valve on the nozzle. it is simple one way check valve is there to prevent things going out of the nozzle trough the port #1 but it allows engine to draw the air trough the same port therefore creating the vacuum..

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1294947079

so running seafom trough OMP will be beneficial for the nozzle cleanness which is critical for proper lubrication of the engine seals.. I would recommend this procedure as a part of regular maintenance on our cars.

Shawn one recommendation for you: run synthetic oil in the car, ester based if possible.

It should be pointed out that under acceleration, there is definitely a vacuum in the throttle body boot. In fact, that is how the OMP system works, there is vacuum on the OMP side and vacuum applied to the hose on the throttle body from the intake.

Ummmm guys
In that video I believe that was the Jet setting line not an omp line

I'm almost positive the yellow marker indicates the jettin line ... maybe that's what you guys have been talking about the whole time ... but I thought it was the OMP line ... which has a white mark ...
No?

^Can anyone confirm that?

I'm pretty sure you're using the right tube. If you look at the illustration (buried somewhere in this thread), the tube on the intake boot that is furthest to the right goes straight to the OMP. The middle one goes to the intake manifold.

-Lawrence

My buddy just texted me that his also has a yellow mark on that line/position. He has a 05 6-speed.

All I'm saying is it looked yellow ... maybe the colour is off ... that's possible with video compression.

Anyways ... I was just talking to Brettus the other day about the vacuum hook ups on my turbo and the yellow marked vacuum hose is the one that is the jets not the omp.

Just say'n

Bump for the 3rd time...

The color is wrong on his but I think he has the right line. I will comment more once I can get these damn videos to upload from my phone, it's pissing me off. I have some confirmation. Some 1.3 will like, some he may not.

Okay, the marking on my OMP hose is white. The jet line is yellow and I followed it to assure it was the jet line and I didn't mix them up since it has been apart a few times.

Anyway, despite what I said previously, have read, etc. There is Vacuum at the OMP line :dunno: So you guys are right about that.

Sorry for the shitty video but I tried :lol: Pay no attention to the knocking noise from my loose SSV actuator :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UoidZWuNH4

Also, I had an old oil injector that I tested bad and my buddy (Mazda dealer tech and RX8 owner) tested bad. I put some gas in reservoir and hooked up a vacuum line and it ran right thru the injector, out the bottom and out of the pin holes in the sides that the oil feeds into from the OMP lines. Now if this injector is bad then I am not sure if that means 1.3 has bad injectors or not. Possibly one or two are bad and the seafoam is flowing thru those into the engine? :dunno:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=665tB2dr3dg

I'll check mine out tomorrow and see if I can trace them.
I have poured seafoam in the other line once. I had actually posted about it weeks ago in the "right thread" so I still think it did something regardless of which one I videoed.. I think.. I'll try to get a video of the other line tomorrow.

I'm going to have to see if I can find a way to test the oil injectors while still in the car.

-Shawn

It will be hard to get a vacuum line on each injector with the UIM on. Also, when I checked mine, they would test okay one second and not the next so you have to test them several times (see pics early on in this thread).

9k seafoam is suppose to flow trough the nozzle if introduced trough port #1..there is nothing stopping it..the check valve#2 that is there is one way but in the opposite direction. it is designed to let the air in and prevent the oil coming out.. why is this so hard to understand? why would mazda attach the air hose to port #1 and not let anything to go trough it?

I do have one question: how does vacuum on OMP line changes as revs go up vs idle?

shadycrew31
if you want to soak the nozzle in the seafoam let the car suck in half of the can and shut it of..leave it for couple of hours or overnight and it will dissolve deposits..run some more when the car is started and it will accomplish same thing

the way I understand it it
oil injector nozzle tip is under engine vacuum
Intake tube line is there to balance that vaccum at the tip of the OI so the OMP doesnt have to work with an unbalanced pressure difference.
If the intake line was not there then the constant engine vacuum at the tip of the oi would pull oil in instead of the pump pushing it in. This could cause air bubbles to form in the lines since the oil supply is volumne regulated by the omp. It would really mess up the omp regulation .

But this is good news as now you can just take the individual OI lines off and put a small amount of Seafoam or whatever in to clean the suckers?
Also, I picked up that this could be a NEW source for a possible vacuum leak. I may end up zip tying the OI lines.

Good info all.
9K yall crack me up!

There is vacuum on both when the throttle plate is opened so the gauge is all over the place. That is what I can't seem to wrap my ahead around. vacuum on both ends.

Also, if you sucked the seafoam in and shut it off, it would sit and soak in the injectors, with the engine off, whatever seafoam is in the injector would just leak down into the combustion chamber due to gravity.

While I think it has been proven there is vacuum at the injector, I still don't think it would be distributed to the injectors evenly or really clean them all that well if it is the check valve itself that is getting clogged. I wish I had all of my old oil injectors to test. The one I tested was bad but it was not one from the rear housing and those were gunked up really bad.

I am going to try and suck gas thru the injector, that would tell us if the check valve is bad right?


That makes sense OD. So the TSB issue is basically that, with no regulation, the injector just pulls oil thru resulting in excessive oil consumption.

Ok guys, I confirmed I was using the correct hose in the video. BOTH lines have a yellow mark so looking for one with a white line was a waste of time. Tugging on the lower hose showed a hose moving under the alt going to the LIM.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...7&d=1309469133


-Shawn

Weird, maybe they were replaced at some point.

That is strange mine clearly have a white or yellow stripe

Most likely, it's the 3rd engine according to Mazda. I also suspect new omp lines cause mine just look/feel to new. They don't feel like old brittle plastic(Like my FCs), they move very easily, and I can see perfectly clear into them.

Way of topic but... Fing Mazda put 3 motors into this car and kept the stupid weak starter in it. :cussing::cussing::cussing:

Ok I feel better now.

Also funny, every time the car was sold it got a new engine. I matched it on the carfax report to the mileage Mazda told me.

-Shawn

Yeah, I know quite a few who just dumped the 8 when the engine failed.

hmm so I have to remove the intake manifold to get to these oil injector and the lines?

Yes, amongst other things is you are replacing the lines as well.

Well I don't mind taking bolts off, but is there any sort of gasket I need to replace when I take the intake off? or I can just use the old ones? For some reason taking intake off sounds like a big process for me.

LOL omg so that's what whining looks like to read.

Yes you can use the old gaskets.

I would recommend you don't remove the intake however ...
It does not sound like you are mechanically inclined enough or have the skill sets to tackle a job like this.

Been trying to get my head around how the oil injectors work. I was wrong with the previous statement about if you can feel vacuum through them they have failed.

Am I on the right lines with:

Under light load air and a little oil is drawn in through the oil injectors.

Under heavy load a slight vacuum applied to the point on the oil injector closes the check valve and draws only oil in, no air - so increasing oil usage.

I checked mine today. On a 4 port if you have many wrists and knuckles you can reach and remove the vacuum lines from each injector without disassembling anything.
I put a hose on each and found I can blow through them - this does not force the oil back down the OMP lines (lines are transparent) so it must be passing into the engine.
If I apply vacuum to the points, the check valve closes and it holds a vacuum for quite a while.

Oddly, two of them whistle when you blow through them!

:) Thanks for the answer I was looking for.

If looking people down makes you happy then it's fine with me. I think I start to get used to many 'proud' people on this forum, exactly what I expected from a sport car forum. Good.

Well, confirmed tonight via coolant system pressure test, coolant leak into #2 rotor housing. 30,000 miles on a Mazda reman. I'll know once it's apart but I'm chalking this one up to a bad rebuild and/or out of spec parts being reused during the rebuild process.

I'm actually excited to actually be able to tear this one apart since the rebuild will be on my dime.

Lets us know the results mate...start a new thread perhaps??

So the amount of air/oil injected is influenced by all of these together?

1) omp pure oil flow choosed by ecu
2) quite big vacuum applied by engine directly in the 4 oil injectors in order to suck air with oil (engine sucks like a bitch, air intake cannot suck more than engine)
3) little "counter-vacuum" applied by air intake based on throttle more or less opened, which limits the amount of air sucked by engine vacuum (and thus makes more oil flow when throttle opens)

Am I right?