I want to check simply if there exists an oil nozzle with a failed check valve. Looking at the hose diagram, one hose (from the accordion tube) goes to a hub that splits out to all of the injectors. Using this end of the hose (and if I am understanding the physics correctly), applying a vacuum of 9.65+ psi and watching for a drop of 0.39 or more over a minute would indicate a failure in at least one nozzle.

Is this lazy-man's test valid?

 

I have the same question.... if this test is valid one or more of my injectors are effed as I tried this a while back.

 

I think a false positive is possible; i.e. an leak over the 1 minute 0.39 psi threshold could be distributed across the four nozzles. I may be over-thinking this ...

 

Don't feel bad, I over think everything.

 

Okay, guys. Rob at Pineapple finally had a chance to tear down my old Mazda Reman and the findings are troubling. I did not rebuild this motor, I had a perfectly running 2008 motor rebuilt instead. I am glad I did. I will post pics in a few minutes.

Now keep in mind that this motor was premixed and ran the SOHN from almost day one and only had 30,000 miles on it. Also, it ran BHR coils and no cat from break in. So, did the failing injectors cause this even though I was premixing 1oz per gallon when i realized my SOHN reservoir was not emptying like usual?

 

Copied from my build thread for those who don't visit that thread.

Okay guys, pics Still waiting on Rob to let me know how the bearings held up since I can't really tell from the pics.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673850/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673806/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153126501/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673406/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673244/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125837/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125777/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125759/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153672804/
Not the best resolution but i zoomed in and they appear to have held up pretty well right?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153688222/

 

Bearing looks OK...

That rotor housing looks like crap

 

Yeah, I am glad I decided not to rebuild this one.

 

As much as it hurts the pocket book...new housings are really a good idea for an engine you want to have less problems with

 

I agree 100%. It is interesting how different builders have different opinions on that sort of thing and what should and should not be replaced. I am so glad I chose Pineapple, overall it was just an awesome experience. Hopefully the motor lives up to my expectations.

 

Zoom Zoom....booom

It's all in the tune

 

Totally agree, New Housing are a must on higher mileage engines in ANY rotary rebuild...anything else and you're totally compromising your rebuild, you might as well use used Apex Seals.

Straight away you can see this owner (9K) looked after this engine/car.
Bearings look very very good and e-shaft.
Check out the Side Seal gap to Corner Seal!

How many miles again, on this one 9K?

Apart from that everything else look normal to excellent!..

Congratulations on your care..9K!

 

Thanks for sharing the tear down 9krpmrx8.

 

Thanks This one had 30,000 miles on it. I plan on basically doing everything the same on the new motor but it should hold up much better.

Thanks, I am glad I was able to do this.

 

I reused my housings, still running strong.

Before acetone



After acetone



Sure the same condition will pop back up, but It's been doing pretty well so far. It really came down to how much money I had at the time. if I get 30k out of this one I'll be happy

 

Out of curiosity, is this considered Light/Normal/or Heavy Carbon build up?

-Shawn

 

I call the carbon, light-normal...without seeing the other Rotor...normal.

 

was that a normal or carbon 2mm apex seals?

 

I should also note that I did do the Zoom Zoom cleaner a few months ago.

 

Right, so after years of discussion we've narrowed the engine failures down to the few parts anywhere between the flywheel and the crank pulley....

 

what part of that seal looks like carbon seal to you ?

you sure is not "something" between the front bumper to the rear bumper ?

 

Pretty sure, I've narrowed that down by putting the engine in another car and still blowing a few up.

 

im going to go over to see rob some time this week and touch your motor, that way i can say i had a hand in the rebuild

of course if something breaks its not anything i touched

 

My FC Engine pics, no zoom zoom cleaning (I can't do it, lol)

Unknown miles, why? cuz the last owner said the owner b4 him (last last owner?) had a rebuild engine about 30K miles ago.

but upon further inspection, I was like "no freaking way," cuz a lot of things were wrong with the engine, rubber plugs are MIA or never installed(melted?), still using older wire-type corner seal spring (seriously, this is a recent rebuild from 4+ yrs ago?) , wrong kind of Oil seal O-ring rubber (yeah, it was using the one Mazda said don't use it, and it's in pieces when I took it out, no wonder this engine was having massive oil leak/blown-by) , etc.

mind u all, those "black stuff" on the housing is NOT burn marks !!! it's actually silicone LOL ! I was like What the F ? It's every f-king where at places that you don't need it, but at places that NEEDS it, hmm, it's MIA. I was shock that this engine didn't leak from day one ...

 

well, if just an seal set and couple hours (oh fine, a day or 2) of time can get you another 30K miles hey, it's totally worth it.

You are lucky your engine was build properly, it was such a nightmare to clean my FC engine, I got cut like 50 times and I spent days just to try to scrap all those carbon and silicone off ...

I should just wipe (or soak) the housing with PB blaster and call it a day ...