Possible New Renesis Engine Failure Theory?
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Pretty much.
Too late, I already have the new motor he built me 
I didn't have him rebuild my old one, I just sent it to him as a core and asked him to break it down and give me a report. I am so glad I went with a new motor because I always knew these Mazda remans were subpar.
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Well the part where it looks pretty shiny to be very stainless steel apex seal but slightly covered in carbon so it is a bit dull... so was just guessing that it might be a carbon apex seal...
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From: Boosted...
Okay, rather than bump my thread on my OMP issue I figure this needed it own thread.
History:
My first engine was replaced at 22k, second at 96k. First saw no premix really and the second only for a pretty short period of time. Both saw 3,000 mile oil changes and regular maintenance otherwise as well.
My third and current motor has had the BHR Ignition, BHR Fuel PUMP, SOHN adapter, Catless midpipe, and has been premixed since break in.
Keep in mind that your OMP lines, oil injectors, etc. are all transferred from one motor to the next. So in my case, they were moved twice.
I actually noticed after some time that my second engine started to use less oil than it had previously (usually used about a quart every 3k) but after some research I determined that every engine seemed to be a bit diff due to driving habits. etc. So I didn't really worry about it too much. At that time, I commuting 70 miles a day, all highway. Well, I got divorced, moved a couple miles form work and my driving habits changed greatly. Then for the next two years I drove shorter distances but still noticed my oil consumption remained low. A while after that, my second engine lost compression.
Then I got my current (3rd) engine. In the beginning the 1 QT SOHN reservoir would empty fairly quickly and I was running about 1/2oz per gallon of premix. But then I noticed after a long trip that my SOHN reservoir level didn't seem to move at all. I checked the lines, the SOHN, etc. and all seemed well except a slight leak on the reservoir hose. No CEL for the OMP, nothing seemed out the ordinary. Either way, I started premixing 1oz per gallon just to be safe on my new motor.
The months went by, the SOHN reservoir use was still low. So, I talked to Richard Sohn and he told me a SOHN adapter has never failed so I considered replacing the OMP even though there were no CEL's, etc. I talked to some others here that I trust and still really didn't have an answer and didn't want to pay for a new OMP if I didn't need it. I wasn't in a rush because it was using some (very little) oil from the reservoir and I guessed that 1oz per gallon of premix in the gas should keep any damage to the Apex seals from happening.
Well, finally I decided to suck it up and dig into it. I bought new OMP lines and oil injectors. I found that two of my OMP lines were clogged and basically falling apart as well. The rear oil injectors were filthy compared to the front and one failed the vacuum test.
So, basically my engine would have died eventually due to the lack of oil being injected had I not been premixing so heavy. My new theory is that many engines are dieing due to this and people are not even aware that this is the cause.
So if you do not monitor your oil consumption, you may be in trouble as your oil injectors and OMP lines deteriorate. It has also been noted also that an OMP can fail without triggering a CEL or putting the car in limp mode like it should.
So, for all of you with decent mileage, I suggest replacing your OMP lines and oil injectors as a preventative measure. But keep in mind that it is kind of a bitch to replace those items.
Edit: Since Christmas, As of today, I have gone through a quart in 749 miles (includes road trip to my parents).
History:
My first engine was replaced at 22k, second at 96k. First saw no premix really and the second only for a pretty short period of time. Both saw 3,000 mile oil changes and regular maintenance otherwise as well.
My third and current motor has had the BHR Ignition, BHR Fuel PUMP, SOHN adapter, Catless midpipe, and has been premixed since break in.
Keep in mind that your OMP lines, oil injectors, etc. are all transferred from one motor to the next. So in my case, they were moved twice.
I actually noticed after some time that my second engine started to use less oil than it had previously (usually used about a quart every 3k) but after some research I determined that every engine seemed to be a bit diff due to driving habits. etc. So I didn't really worry about it too much. At that time, I commuting 70 miles a day, all highway. Well, I got divorced, moved a couple miles form work and my driving habits changed greatly. Then for the next two years I drove shorter distances but still noticed my oil consumption remained low. A while after that, my second engine lost compression.
Then I got my current (3rd) engine. In the beginning the 1 QT SOHN reservoir would empty fairly quickly and I was running about 1/2oz per gallon of premix. But then I noticed after a long trip that my SOHN reservoir level didn't seem to move at all. I checked the lines, the SOHN, etc. and all seemed well except a slight leak on the reservoir hose. No CEL for the OMP, nothing seemed out the ordinary. Either way, I started premixing 1oz per gallon just to be safe on my new motor.
The months went by, the SOHN reservoir use was still low. So, I talked to Richard Sohn and he told me a SOHN adapter has never failed so I considered replacing the OMP even though there were no CEL's, etc. I talked to some others here that I trust and still really didn't have an answer and didn't want to pay for a new OMP if I didn't need it. I wasn't in a rush because it was using some (very little) oil from the reservoir and I guessed that 1oz per gallon of premix in the gas should keep any damage to the Apex seals from happening.
Well, finally I decided to suck it up and dig into it. I bought new OMP lines and oil injectors. I found that two of my OMP lines were clogged and basically falling apart as well. The rear oil injectors were filthy compared to the front and one failed the vacuum test.
So, basically my engine would have died eventually due to the lack of oil being injected had I not been premixing so heavy. My new theory
is that many engines are dieing due to this and people are not even aware that this is the cause.So if you do not monitor your oil consumption, you may be in trouble as your oil injectors and OMP lines deteriorate. It has also been noted also that an OMP can fail without triggering a CEL or putting the car in limp mode like it should.
So, for all of you with decent mileage, I suggest replacing your OMP lines and oil injectors as a preventative measure. But keep in mind that it is kind of a bitch to replace those items.
Edit: Since Christmas, As of today, I have gone through a quart in 749 miles (includes road trip to my parents).
My OMP injects so much oil that dirt sticks to the back of my car.....
couple things --just to remind folks---if you run without the omp you will get less side seal life. Eric Meyer discovered this. It doesnt matter how much pre mix you use.
heavy pre mix (1 oz per gallon) does affect the gas octane--small amount-- aviation guys (these guys are fanatics) say at 100/1 it reduces octane by 1 full point. When you are in a state that only has 91octane and trying to tune it for high boost ( over 10psi?) its a factor that needs remembering.
Just for the heck of it, I am going to post some pictures of my custom thermostat housing and thermostat today--guess I will start a new thread? I mentioned it here because Scott maybe able to use it.
OD
heavy pre mix (1 oz per gallon) does affect the gas octane--small amount-- aviation guys (these guys are fanatics) say at 100/1 it reduces octane by 1 full point. When you are in a state that only has 91octane and trying to tune it for high boost ( over 10psi?) its a factor that needs remembering.
Just for the heck of it, I am going to post some pictures of my custom thermostat housing and thermostat today--guess I will start a new thread? I mentioned it here because Scott maybe able to use it.
OD
Last edited by olddragger; Sep 19, 2011 at 06:58 PM.
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The car started having random misfires over the last year that were here and there and then a slight bog in the RPM range at about 6,000RPM started happening from time to time and I was getting the the random flashing CEL but no stored codes for a misfire. I changed the plugs, checked coils, replaced plug wires with upgraded BHR units, cleaned MAF, swapped MAF, cleaned ESS, checked for exhaust leaks,etc., etc. but nothing helped. Then eventually the cold start issues started and progressively got worse. Towards the end the car would idle erratically and want to stall until it warmed up a little. Also, The plugs were wet when pulled while the motor was cold. Finally, my last used oil analysis from Blackstone showed coolant in the oil so I parked it before it failed completely.
Honestly over the past year I knew something was up because I got walked on the highway by a Turbo beetle and I did a couple of 3rd gear pulls with grungepup and he would pull on me pretty good even though his car was basically stock.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Sep 19, 2011 at 11:52 AM.
I have a feeling I'm seeing early signs of this.... its really hard for me to diagnose anything for real but I think the "whistling" I'm getting from my OMP intake vacuum line means my injector check valves are screwed and I ran like this all summer (I premix 8oz/tank). I've seen small reductions is Vaccum pressure but this could be due to a number of things including mechanical error in my $50 autometer boost/vacuum gauge. But I was out at the drag strip this weekend and although there was plenty of other factors, such as a strong head wind and myself being over tired and missing a few shifts once and while; but I ran the same time I ran in May when I had less boost/MAF and extremely worn/bald tires.
If it does come down to a new engine though I will definitely be taking a look at Pineapple, especially after I see more results from 9k's build
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I have a feeling I'm seeing early signs of this.... its really hard for me to diagnose anything for real but I think the "whistling" I'm getting from my OMP intake vacuum line means my injector check valves are screwed and I ran like this all summer (I premix 8oz/tank). I've seen small reductions is Vaccum pressure but this could be due to a number of things including mechanical error in my $50 autometer boost/vacuum gauge. But I was out at the drag strip this weekend and although there was plenty of other factors, such as a strong head wind and myself being over tired and missing a few shifts once and while; but I ran the same time I ran in May when I had less boost/MAF and extremely worn/bald tires.
If it does come down to a new engine though I will definitely be taking a look at Pineapple, especially after I see more results from 9k's build
If it does come down to a new engine though I will definitely be taking a look at Pineapple, especially after I see more results from 9k's build
Hi, could this 'whistling' u speak of could be coming or heard from inside the cabin?
I always hear a soft whistling sound coming from the centre console whenever i step on the gas...
It seems to be coming from the header area or cat... but i have checked for cracks but found nothing or have sealed it...
Jeff, told me i had some vaccum leaks in my logs but i have yet to find the cause...
Is it the same area u are hearing it from?
To OldDragger... I have ordered the fuel in-line hose and am waiting for other parts from Sparco to arrive... Once i have the part, i will try out ur suggestion on the pump... Thank u once again!!!
Last edited by Blacknightz; Sep 20, 2011 at 06:42 AM.
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I am having a cold start only misfires and I am starting to think that I might have a bad coolant seal letting the coolant in overnight and causing the misfires in the morning. I'll check my coolant level and send an oil sample for analysis. I am still under warranty so hopefully engine replacement wont be an issue if it comes to that.
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If you pull the plugs when it has been sitting all night they should actually be wet. You can also do what i did and get a coolant system pressure tester and pressurize the coolant system and then you will be able to tell if there is a coolant system leak.
You can find the procedure for testing the coolant system here:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
You can find the procedure for testing the coolant system here:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
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new plugs and coils were changed in May. In my opinion it is either coolant dripping in over night or I have leaky fuel injector. I checked the coolant level yesterday and it has not changed. will send oil sample for analysis that will provide conclusive answer for coolant leak.
When I pulled my plugs I noticed the wetness as well...and it smells like gasoline. I wonder why?
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Yeah mine smelled more like gas than coolant too but I am guessing the coolant soaking in the carbon makes it smell more like gas. Either way, if the engine is cold the plugs should not be wet.
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so I checked the coolant level again this morning and it was significantly lower with car cold. I drove the car for 5-6 miles and when I pulled into parking lot I left it running and took a look at the coolant reservoir again. it was above full mark and I could notice bubbles coming up from the bottom portion of the reservoir. If I am not mistaken that definitely confirms that combustion gasses are leaking pass the coolant seal into cooling system and coming up in the overflow reservoir :-(
I took oil sample and sent it for analysis, this will come in handy when I go to visit Mazda dealer and ask for a new engine. There are several of them in the DC metro area, any recommendations which are more rotor crowd friendly?
I took oil sample and sent it for analysis, this will come in handy when I go to visit Mazda dealer and ask for a new engine. There are several of them in the DC metro area, any recommendations which are more rotor crowd friendly?
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Well I hope you get it sorted. I think having the UOA will help I think. There is a thread here about a guy having a hard time getting his engine replaced with this same scenario because the dealer could not replicate the issue during several visits and the compression of the engine was good. But eventually after talking to another dealer he got them to pressure test the coolant system with a spark plug removed and coolant came out of the spark plug hole when pressurized.
But it was definitely a learning experience for me, it was very hard to diagnose since it was such a slight loss of coolant and ran seemingly well when the engine was warmed up.
But it was definitely a learning experience for me, it was very hard to diagnose since it was such a slight loss of coolant and ran seemingly well when the engine was warmed up.
I hope I don't have the same coolant leaking into engine trouble...It's a reman engine with 12k on it...
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Let me clarify. In a normally functioning engine the plugs should not be wet after sitting over night. If you have a coolant seal leak it is possible for coolant to seep in when the engine is cool, which will result in wet plugs.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Sep 23, 2011 at 05:39 PM.
Oh great......(sarcasm) at 12k?? At least let me save my $4k first!!
This also reminds me that, the car gets white smoke in the morning. I was thinking that it would be condensation, but, it can be much worse...
Can it hurt anything tho? or I will just have to keep on top off the coolant? Also reminds me that I unplugged the coolant tank sensor and haven't checked the level for a few months..
This also reminds me that, the car gets white smoke in the morning. I was thinking that it would be condensation, but, it can be much worse...
Can it hurt anything tho? or I will just have to keep on top off the coolant? Also reminds me that I unplugged the coolant tank sensor and haven't checked the level for a few months..
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If the coolant seal leak is busted it will only get worse and coolant will pass into the combustion chamber all of the time regardless of whether the engine is hot or cold and this will result in misfires, overheating, etc. so yes it can hurt things, you have coolant getting into your oil and oil getting into your coolant.
It turned out that my coolant certainly isn't leaking. Still got the full tank like when I bought it five months ago. I wonder what that wetness on the plugs was...feel like engine oil to me but smell like gas...
Oh well I guess I will stop worrying for now.
Oh well I guess I will stop worrying for now.