Hmmm. So when are you making iconical (sic) springs?

 

No idea, don't have the money for a rebuild/new engine and the next event is 4 weeks away.
Might just throw a different engine in it + sell it.

Can't afford a service list that includes a new engine every 8 events!

 

Yeah, that's tough. I'm glad you have stuck it out with the rotary but the rebuild costs are crazy when you could probably run something far more reliable I am sure.

 

It's a beautiful engine for that car though, I can't think of anything else that is going to give the same balance of power, torque and usable rpm range, in that size package for the suspension/handling.
Just a pity there seems to be an inherent flaw for our race use. I'd love to see if I can sort it with inconel springs, but the intention was to do that to the spare engine as and when funds allowed.

Worst bit is, managed to limp it around to finish and I'm pretty sure we're up to second in the championship even after that. Doh!

 

That sucks man.

 

I guess a Series 2 Engine failure thread is in order..perhaps side seal springs wont cut it will do.
Considering there is no change between S1 and S2 in this area of sealing* what does one expect ...for a buggy?

*Unless engine was made from February, 2009...where Side Seal Spring was modified.

 

Bummer Phil!

 

How could anything get sucked through to the injector when the OMP keeps positive pressure on the injector? I know it's not a lot, but still, it doesn't make sense. Vacuum on one side won't overcome a physical pump on the other.

 

To be honest, we had that first engine rather hot a few times whilst we nailed the cooling and EGTs down, so we put the side seal failure on that one down to that. However, it appears that's not the case...

Just realised I put this in the wrong thread, thought I was in the general engine failure one, doh!

 

Ding, Ding, Ding.

 

but again where does the seafoam go?--maybe it is sucked back up the intake after that line is reattached?
OD

 

Oh, it most definitely would be. Not to mention the car would idle like **** with the line disconnected unless the port on the accordion tube was plugged.

 

You guys amaze me sometimes.....

None of you have tried it, but you all seem to know for fact it won't work.

Please explain how on earth seafoam would not get sucked in from the oil injectors AND somehow magically reverse the flow in the line and go back to the throttle body? Remember, the hose connects before the trottle plate so there is nothing there (no vacuum in accordion tube) to make the seafoam travel back... Not to mention it was already burned up by the engine prior to reconnecting the line.
If I pour seafoam down the line the engine stumbles, and odor becomes present. That would suggest it was being injected into the motor since the line was disconnected from the intake.

Was yesterday make **** up and call it facts day??

If so, Can you please pass the pipe this way? I could really use some seafoam that has the ability to teleport itself from one location to another.

I wish y'all would take the 5mins to try it out...

-Shawn

 

I think 9k may be right in saying that you effectively only clean 1 injector tho ... not ALL of them

 

in the end people believe what they want to believe

I thought it would work, Shawn proved that it does.
we shared our idea/experiences with forum and they can try it for them selves or not...I could care less honestly.

personally I am glad we found another way to eliminate one more potential cause of renesis high mortality by keeping the OMP nozzles clean.

 

I agree, that is very probable. But like I said in the other thread...

If you pour in seafoam faster than 1,2, or 3 injectors can suck up then all 4 would see seafoam... Would it be the same amount per injector? NO, but all 4 would see "some" seafoam.

-Shawn

 

I don't have to do it to know it won't work. I understand the system. Obviously you do not understand it based on your comments. The throttle plate is never fully closed. When the engine is idling there is always a vacuum in the accordion tube. How would the engine run without any incoming air? Not to mention that as soon as you disconnect the hose from the accordion to pour seafoam down it, the engine would stumble due the vacuum leak unless you plugged the hole in the accordion tube.

Why do I have to keep repeating that? Is this really that hard to understand?

 

"The throttle plate is never fully closed so when the engine is idling there is a vacuum in the accordion tube." - EPIC FAIL

hook up a gauge to one of the ports on the throttle body boot and report back how much "vacuum" your car makes at idle..or any rpm for that matter...

 

Dude, just stop. So your saying at idle the engine is pulling no air in and the throttle plate is full closed?

 

That is the only useful piece of information over the past 3 days.

 

I wish I could delete other members posts. Then I would delete mine and make all the madness go away.

 

LOL it haunts you I know!

 

there is venturi vacuum in the accordian tube only--not a true vacuum as normally thought of in reference to the engines health.
The omp system does confuse me. I do know if you remove that intake line from the omp your car will use a lot more oil. There is actually a TSB on it.
there is a check valve in an omp nozzle and maybe that is what is clogging up?
It should be easy to do a test--just hook up a vacuum tube to the end of one and see if it is open?
This would be worthwhile confirming---because if it does work then that could be a VERY helpful thing.
By design I agree with 9K (lol 8K just kidding) that it is not supposed to work, but i have seen stranger things and the man says his attempt did work.
Anyone have a nozzle laying around?

 

Man, I keep getting sucked in

I have a few laying around and I understand what you are saying about the way things should work and the way they actually work. I understand he believes his test worked because his car started to idle rough and he smelled the seafoam burning But here are my questions.

1. Did he plug the open port on the accordion while doing this "test"? He didn't mention doing so, so I doubt he did. That alone would cause the idle to decrease and the car would stumble from the vacuum leak as soon a she removed the hos e from the accordion tube.

2. At what point did he plug the vacuum hose back into the accordion tube? As soon as he did this, any seafoam in the tube, vacuum block, etc. would be sucked into the engine and burned.

 

For the next useful bit, where's the engine production date code stamped? 'cause this was out of a late '09 car...