I'm a Sailor so I curse like one

 

Im trying out 1/8" Viton tubing for my OMP lines since I had to do a relocation. Ill let you guys know how that goes. Seems to be ok sofar. As for that check valve, I looked at a schematic and it looked a little more like a pop off valve. Im not totaly sure, gotta look around for that schematic again.

 

Bump

 

Greeting rotor heads.

Well, if it is doable, I would like to replace those tubes from omp to injectors, too.
They aren't that flexible as I thought before I moved them around until I installed mop adapter, and they are touching/contacting with coolant hose clamp, which I don't like.

P.s. Just installed mine two days ago, the air in tubes would that be clear away while I am driving the car? I premix approximately 8 oz for whole tank for safe when there aren't any oil to lubricat and burn.
Thanks

 

I squeezed my two stroke tank until the line to the adapter was full. I wouldn't drive around until it fills up, that's for sure. At least you premix though.

 

Just squeeze the line like a pump, the air bubble should rise up the line assuming your reservoir is mounted the right way. You want a direct path down from the reservoir to the SOHN as possible.

 

Good thread. Thanks 9k.

 

plus 1, this is definitely a must read thread.
I will go try and squeez the tank, see if i can get thos air out or not.
I placed my tank next to windshield fluid tank, that's the only space I could find to squeez in a 1.5 qt tank for oil.
Thanks again for your help. Beodude and 9krpmrx8.

 

Just asking...but would using seafoam clean up the oil lines? Seafoam states it can be used for cleaning oil systems.

 

Just do the OMP adapter, and you'll be good to go. Nice clean oil will start flowing through the lines pretty quickly.

 

Not unless you remove the lines and run seafoam through them. Otherwise there is no way to get seafoam in them. And if you are going to remove them you might as well replace them and the oil injectors.

 

id be a little worried abotu running seafoam through there not sure how it would react to the diaphragms in the injectors.

 

Yeah and If you are going to remove them to clean them then you might as well replace them anyway.

 

Now that I remember correctly I did blast mine with carb cleaner so Seafoam would be fine. Actually it would be better since it wont dry out the seals as much.

But even then only one of the 3 stuck ones got slightly un-stuck, so I had to replace them anyway.

 

So is there going to be a DIY step by step? That will help me a lot since it will be the first time I really work on something in the rotary engine bay.

My oil consumption dropped from normal to 0 after the last oil change. I am guessing this is the issue? I am premixing 1 oz pre gallon now, but localized lube is needed asap. I am wondering though if it is the injectors, there are 4 of them, the drop in the oil consumption should be gradual not abrupt right?

 

Yes, it shouldn't just go from normal to zero. Sounds kind of like your OMP died. I'd do maybe a bit more than 1oz per gallon, and then get your OMP replaced. The location of the oil injectors is pretty important, and you really really need to get lubrication in there, more than just with premix.

 

I have the same experience with my 231hp Rex.
When it was new and without premixing I had a steady OMP consumption of approx 1/4 Gallon per 2.000 mls (with moderate driving style).
When I started premix 1:250 at 6.000 mls on the odometer the OMP consumption (obviously just seemed) to "decrease" instantly..............
Shortly after that I decided to increase the amount and since I premix with 1 Oz per Gallon (1:128) it just "seems" on the oil dipstick that I have no 4 stroke oil consumption at all any more.........the level on the dipstick remains the same; there even is a tendency to increase slightly...........(today 13.000 mls on the odo)
Fortunately I did read some time ago a message / article (sorry I have no link) from a rotary-aircraft-pilot.......... he reported that he and other pilots experienced that with heavy premixing {for aircraftrotaries 1:85 premix (without OMP) conform manufacturers requirement} they noticed that the 4 stroke oil amount in the rotaryengine did increase to such an extend that they had to tap oil regularely to remain the level under maximum.
Obviously with heavy premixing a part of the 2 stroke premixoil becomes dissolved in the 4 stroke oil.
In my personal situation (with 1:128) the dissolved amount is approx. equal to the regular consumption of the OMP and the 4 stroke oillevel remains equal.
In some way this does influence the viscosity of the engine oil; however the viscosity of most 2 strokeoils is within the range of a regular 5W30 4 stroke oil........nevertheless I change my oil more freguent at 5.000 mls (Mazda-Europe requires 12.500 mls).

Best regards, Ruud

 

not sure how would 2 stroke oil mix with regular oil..whatever is injected in the combustion chamber gets burned, it doesn't get drained back to the sump.

 

I can't even read all that mostly but if you are getting zero consumption it is likely the oil injectors. If you oil metering pump failed, the PCM would put your car into limp mode (no power) and you would get a CEL.

 

For some reason I though that if it was connected, the computer thought it was good. Maybe it was actual output that it doesn't care about. I couldn't remember.

 

Interesting Rudolph. In that case it would justify my slow 4 stroke oil consumption. I had oil change on 6/2, then I premixed 1 oz per gallon when I had autocross on 6/5, and after that I returned to 1/2 oz per gallon. I checked dipstick on 6/9 and I think I might have read the wrong side of dipstick lol so I thought the level is 3mm below full but it might have been 3mm before the 'top' of the wrong side of dipstick. I then took a long distance highway drive ~400 miles and when I returned the oil level is 3mm below full (this time I'm sure). Yesterday I waited an hour after the engine shut off before I checked the dipstick and it's in the same spot. Then I posted here. Then I thought maybe the oil level increases with time so today I checked again and it's at around 8mm below full.

So if 1. I misread the dipstick the first time 2. The oil consumption on highway is really low 3. oil level on dipstick increases with time after the engine is shut off and 4. premix got into the 4 stroke, then it is still burning oil. I have been driving the car a little soft lately because the weather maybe that will contribute as well. Anyway I will change the injector when I get a chance but I guess it can wait a little longer. (moving to a place with garage now. )

Quite a lot of assumption and quite a lot of rambling. Sorry guys. :P

 

Oh btw a question. How much is the oil level below full if the read on dipstick is half way between full and empty? I forgot but I remember seeing a diagram somewhere and the mark on the dipstick is not linear.

 

nope, that that depends how it failed, but this thread still fails regardless ...

 

First off this thread rules. Secondly, you are actually right, I should have said that it should put your car in limp mode but there have been reports of failed OMP's without limp mode (I think Dannobre had that issue). Either way, no oil consumption is bad and failed OMP's are not a common occurrence as far as I know.

 

See link:
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...5&d=1295339727

Best regards,
Ruud