Then you don't try to start it until it does. May mean you dont have enough oil in the pan. Only maybe 1 out of 25 engines I install will have priming issues. In extreme cases you can overfill the crankcase temporarily to help fill the oil pump and get it flowing, or move the car to a hill where the nose faces down which will also help fill the oil pump and prime it. Basicaly though, you just continue to crank the engine with the starter until you have oil flow/pressure.

 

video!!!

 

Yea we got oil now and fuel but no ignition.... any thoughts? fuel on the plugs etc. e shaft is plugged back in.

 

no sparks at the plugs ?

 

Did you inject some oil into the chambers after assembly of the block? You can't start one when the internals are dry...the oil gets between the seals and housings and fills the gaps, temporarily boosting compression and helping it start. I am not a builder who slathers the internals in vaseline etc. nor motor oil. I only hand lube the bearings slightly and leave the rest mostly dry. After the block is bolted together and tensioned down I inject oil into the plug holes to build compression. I wait until then so there is no chance that stay oil will seep onto the coolant seals and cause a leak/poor seal.

EDIT: after re reading your post perhaps you mean you have no spark? I took it to mean your plugs were wet but it wasn't starting, which can be a sign of flooding, aka low compression...but if you have no spark obviously compression isn't the issue.

 

There is spark on the front housing weak to none on the rear. Needless to say were all a little tired and upset back here. but it was something in the cards as a possibility.

 

dont crank it. Cuss, throw things, then try to find out why after the valium takes affect.
OD

 

sucks to hear shady...hope it get it worked out...

 

I think somehow the bearings under the thrust plate are out of alignment. The main pulley and pulley mount are wobbling when the engine is cranked. which makes the e-shaft alignment plate wobble making the firing order a no go.

 

Very common mistake.
This cost me my last engine, even though I fixed it as soon as it was noticed.
If you run the motor at all this way, it will walk the front stationary gear bearing and front rotor bearing. The wobble will eventually destroy everything in the front chamber in a spectacular, catastrophic way. (I'll post up pics of my destruction later.)

You have to take the front cover off to fix it. No choice in that. DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR AT ALL THIS WAY.

Next time, when you are assembling the front, note the depth of the main nut in front. It has to be 10 - 11mm. Any more than that and you will know something is wrong.

 

Yea I figured... well luckily for whatever reason it didn't even start so its time to drain the fluids again and pull it all... this **** blows ***.

Do you think we need to pull the engine to since there's a good chance it'll just get out of place again if its pan side down?

 

Before you do that, check end play (which you should have done before install). IF you have zero, then yes, go ahead and pull it. IF you have the prescribed 1.5-3.5, then the thrust bearings are fine.

It will be obvious if you have let a thrust bearing slip, because it will have been crushed by the spacer ring when you tightened down the front bolt.

Yes, if run this way, it can destroy the engine and send bearing material and metal through the oiling system, requiring a full flush and part replacement.

FWIW, crushed thrust bearings would not cause the e-shaft or pullies to wobble. IT would only affect end play of the shaft and spacing of the pulley to the front of the engine. The stat gear/main bearing holds the shaft centered and steady.

 

Unfortunately, incorrect.
Been there, done that.

In theory, you are correct, but the reality is that the pulley will actually wobble.
I haven't given too much brain-space to figuring out why that is, but having done exactly this and witnessing the result, I can tell you that the main pulley will wobble quite a bit and will be protruding forward a few mm off the proper belt axis.

The front cover can be removed with the motor still in the car, so don't pull the whole motor.

 

well we checked the play with a dial indicator as mentioned it was in spec. We assembled the whole front assembly rear of the engine down so nothing would slip.

****.

 

IF endplay is within spec then your thrust bearings are fine. I do not think your problem is inside. I think you have one or more pullies mounted wrong.

 

I searched on the 7 forums as well and a similar problem happened.

 

I've worked on several cars for people who did some sort of front cover or pulley swap and let this happen, and never seen a pulley wobble at all. Maybe yours was unique.

The fact remains that if endplay is currently correct, the thrust bearings cannot be crushed. IF they were, there would be zero endplay. The only variable is how accurately he is able to measure endplay.

 

hmmmmm.

I removed the e shaft pulley and plate and mounted them again so see if that did anything.

Well I'll triple check everything and get back to you guys.

 

BTW MM and RR, thanks for your help guys. Without it, we would be stuck. If you guys are in Los Angeles, i'll buy you guys a nice dinner!

 

magnet on front housing, gauge on the end of the pulley, zero out gauge, lift the flywheel up, read the measurement...

 

good luck dude. easy was kinda worrid about the samething when he pulled the front cover. luckily nothing was moved or slipped and started up with no problems. easy was telling me about what could happen cuz it happened to MM.

 

Just pull the front bolt and measure the depth. That is the best way to know what is going on.
If its 10 - 11mm, that is not your problem.
If it's 15mm or something like that - bingo.

 

To be more detailed:

We put the dial indicator on a magnetic stand. Put all pulleys and BS on the E Shaft. Torqued down the bolt to 150ftlbs (FSM said something really high). Put the dial indicator stand on the front housing and magnetized it. Made sure that the dial indicator was perpendicular to the pulley's outer most lip. Locked down the dial indicator with it's shaft pushed in half-way. Zerod out the indicator. Lifted the flywheel for measurement. Did this couple times to get the average, which was in spec.

 

all that just for being off a few mills is kinda crazy.

 

we did 120!