Mixing Oils
08-25-2008, 02:48 PM
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Mixing Oils
I am using the normal 5w-20 oil right now, and after reading all the posts about how its thin I want to put in 5w-30. THat being said can I add 5w-30 to my oil now or do I have to completly change out all the 5w-20 before I can put in any 5w-30
Second when I go to get my oil changed at Mazda can I ask them to put in 5w-30 or will they start to bitch about it?
Second when I go to get my oil changed at Mazda can I ask them to put in 5w-30 or will they start to bitch about it?
08-25-2008, 02:51 PM
#2
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won't hurt you to mix it. Even when they do an oil change, the oil coolers hold some oil so you never really get all of the old stuff out in one change.
Dealership shouldn't have a big issue with it, all comes down to the individual dealership and your relationship with them.
Just tell them you prefer 5w-30 in the summer months.
Dealership shouldn't have a big issue with it, all comes down to the individual dealership and your relationship with them.
Just tell them you prefer 5w-30 in the summer months.
08-25-2008, 02:56 PM
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08-25-2008, 03:00 PM
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5w-30 can be used year round
08-25-2008, 05:30 PM
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This is what is in my Mazda Manual....so not a problem...I had to show the Mazda-mech and thats all he needed. Some of us should be running 10X40wt or even 20X50wt in hot climates.
"Engine oil viscosity, or thickness, has an
effect on fuel economy and cold-weather
operation (starting and oil flow).
Low-viscosity engine oils can provide
improved fuel economy and cold-weather
performance.
But high-temperature weather conditions
require higher-viscosity engine oils for
satisfactory lubrication"
"Engine oil viscosity, or thickness, has an
effect on fuel economy and cold-weather
operation (starting and oil flow).
Low-viscosity engine oils can provide
improved fuel economy and cold-weather
performance.
But high-temperature weather conditions
require higher-viscosity engine oils for
satisfactory lubrication"
08-25-2008, 06:06 PM
#7
Make Some Noise
This is what is in my Mazda Manual....so not a problem...I had to show the Mazda-mech and thats all he needed. Some of us should be running 10X40wt or even 20X50wt in hot climates.
"Engine oil viscosity, or thickness, has an
effect on fuel economy and cold-weather
operation (starting and oil flow).
Low-viscosity engine oils can provide
improved fuel economy and cold-weather
performance.
But high-temperature weather conditions
require higher-viscosity engine oils for
satisfactory lubrication"
"Engine oil viscosity, or thickness, has an
effect on fuel economy and cold-weather
operation (starting and oil flow).
Low-viscosity engine oils can provide
improved fuel economy and cold-weather
performance.
But high-temperature weather conditions
require higher-viscosity engine oils for
satisfactory lubrication"
In Long Island the average temperature is 97-102 from May until Mid September. Now I purchased my car about 9 months ago I had to wait almost a month to get my reman engine this past month. I don't want to pay $5,000 for another engine if it happens again. I'd rather complete my car with mods and drive by the end of the day with that money. So for all you rx8 owners I don't recommend 5x20wt or 5x30wt at all!
Check this link to see how many owners are getting reman engines:
So Who belongs to the New Engine club?
08-25-2008, 10:04 PM
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I started using 20x50wt after getting some advice from another 2004 rx8 owner this summer. He told me since day one he uses 20x50wt in the summer and 10x40wt in the winter. He still has the same stock engine from day one! He does it for all his other vehicles as well.
In Long Island the average temperature is 97-102 from May until Mid September. Now I purchased my car about 9 months ago I had to wait almost a month to get my reman engine this past month. I don't want to pay $5,000 for another engine if it happens again. I'd rather complete my car with mods and drive by the end of the day with that money. So for all you rx8 owners I don't recommend 5x20wt or 5x30wt at all!
Check this link to see how many owners are getting reman engines:
So Who belongs to the New Engine club?
In Long Island the average temperature is 97-102 from May until Mid September. Now I purchased my car about 9 months ago I had to wait almost a month to get my reman engine this past month. I don't want to pay $5,000 for another engine if it happens again. I'd rather complete my car with mods and drive by the end of the day with that money. So for all you rx8 owners I don't recommend 5x20wt or 5x30wt at all!
Check this link to see how many owners are getting reman engines:
So Who belongs to the New Engine club?
08-25-2008, 10:13 PM
#10
So for all you rx8 owners I don't recommend 5x20wt or 5x30wt at all!
I don't want this to turn into another oil debate. But it sounds like most people run 5w-30... so it can't be that bad.
08-26-2008, 02:33 PM
#11
Make Some Noise
So you feel the heavier weight oil is the reason you needed a new engine?
No, after Mazda did a compression test on my engine the results revealed a cracked apex seal.
How many miles were on it when you got it?
When I purchased my vehicle it had 55,000 miles.
What oil was run in it during those previous miles?
The oil I used was 5x20wt at all times and I changed it every first of the month.
What gas(reg 87)?
I've used 95 octane it's either that or I would get the check engine light.
What service was done?
Changed the radiator and spark plugs
How was it driven, short trips?
Occasionally street racing every now and then. Besides that going to work, short trips to clubs and 7eleven.
Why do you feel your nine months is what did it in?
I'm not assuming that it took 9 months for the engine to crash. All of this happened after nine months. One of my friends used to work for Mazda so I stopped by his shop and he checked the flashing cel for me. He didn't like what he saw so he drove it personally to Mazda and of course I discovered that I was driving a bombshell. Not to mention my car has already went through 2 engines already!
So from now on I'm not using 5x20wt any more and suffer the same fate again.
08-26-2008, 03:03 PM
#12
Well to answer your questions Old Rotor.....
So you feel the heavier weight oil is the reason you needed a new engine?
No, after Mazda did a compression test on my engine the results revealed a cracked apex seal.
How many miles were on it when you got it?
When I purchased my vehicle it had 55,000 miles.
What oil was run in it during those previous miles?
The oil I used was 5x20wt at all times and I changed it every first of the month.
What gas(reg 87)?
I've used 95 octane it's either that or I would get the check engine light.
What service was done?
Changed the radiator and spark plugs
How was it driven, short trips?
Occasionally street racing every now and then. Besides that going to work, short trips to clubs and 7eleven.
Why do you feel your nine months is what did it in?
I'm not assuming that it took 9 months for the engine to crash. All of this happened after nine months. One of my friends used to work for Mazda so I stopped by his shop and he checked the flashing cel for me. He didn't like what he saw so he drove it personally to Mazda and of course I discovered that I was driving a bombshell. Not to mention my car has already went through 2 engines already!
So from now on I'm not using 5x20wt any more and suffer the same fate again.
So you feel the heavier weight oil is the reason you needed a new engine?
No, after Mazda did a compression test on my engine the results revealed a cracked apex seal.
How many miles were on it when you got it?
When I purchased my vehicle it had 55,000 miles.
What oil was run in it during those previous miles?
The oil I used was 5x20wt at all times and I changed it every first of the month.
What gas(reg 87)?
I've used 95 octane it's either that or I would get the check engine light.
What service was done?
Changed the radiator and spark plugs
How was it driven, short trips?
Occasionally street racing every now and then. Besides that going to work, short trips to clubs and 7eleven.
Why do you feel your nine months is what did it in?
I'm not assuming that it took 9 months for the engine to crash. All of this happened after nine months. One of my friends used to work for Mazda so I stopped by his shop and he checked the flashing cel for me. He didn't like what he saw so he drove it personally to Mazda and of course I discovered that I was driving a bombshell. Not to mention my car has already went through 2 engines already!
So from now on I'm not using 5x20wt any more and suffer the same fate again.
Mazda made this car ! They know best ! You no use 5w20 you are doomed !
starting @ 5000 miles I use GOOD 5w30 TRUE Full synthetic. b4 that it was the shameful 5w20 + I used to idle a lot with that garbage 5w20 @ my friend's place ... hope no damage has done ...
Now 44K miles
Anyway, about 2K miles ago I start using 10w40. soon Gonna get myself some 5w-50 :D
Last edited by nycgps; 08-26-2008 at 03:06 PM.
08-27-2008, 01:45 PM
#13
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08-31-2008, 10:36 AM
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Greg - you can mix any oil type (dino and synthetic) or grades you like. I t happens anyway when you change oil brands because the coolers hold a lot of oil. However, performance and protection will also be an average between what you mix, so depending of your desired end result, you have to decide in each case what to mix.
For example, assuming winters are not cold in your area, you could consider running a 10W40 grade. Now you have in your engine full 5W20, so at the next oil change, you will have to change to 3qt 20W50 and 1qt 10W30. The result should come close to a 10W40 (assuming 2qt of 5W15 are left in your engine - yes, 5W15, because used oil looses at least 5 units with use).
But if winter is cold in your area, change your oil with 2qt 5W30 and 2qt 5W40.
At the next oil change, need to redo the calculations above :o)
For example, assuming winters are not cold in your area, you could consider running a 10W40 grade. Now you have in your engine full 5W20, so at the next oil change, you will have to change to 3qt 20W50 and 1qt 10W30. The result should come close to a 10W40 (assuming 2qt of 5W15 are left in your engine - yes, 5W15, because used oil looses at least 5 units with use).
But if winter is cold in your area, change your oil with 2qt 5W30 and 2qt 5W40.
At the next oil change, need to redo the calculations above :o)
08-31-2008, 06:40 PM
#17
Registered
Question for everyone in this thread who reports they've used this or that with no problems.
How many miles? And have you torn your engine down to see what the wear looks like?
My brother never changed the oil in a Toyota. Engine blew at a bit over 70,000 miles. Up through 69,000 miles he could have posted that the factory oil was great, no need to ever change it.
Ken
How many miles? And have you torn your engine down to see what the wear looks like?
My brother never changed the oil in a Toyota. Engine blew at a bit over 70,000 miles. Up through 69,000 miles he could have posted that the factory oil was great, no need to ever change it.
Ken
08-31-2008, 07:56 PM
#19
Greg - you can mix any oil type (dino and synthetic) or grades you like. I t happens anyway when you change oil brands because the coolers hold a lot of oil. However, performance and protection will also be an average between what you mix, so depending of your desired end result, you have to decide in each case what to mix.
For example, assuming winters are not cold in your area, you could consider running a 10W40 grade. Now you have in your engine full 5W20, so at the next oil change, you will have to change to 3qt 20W50 and 1qt 10W30. The result should come close to a 10W40 (assuming 2qt of 5W15 are left in your engine - yes, 5W15, because used oil looses at least 5 units with use).
But if winter is cold in your area, change your oil with 2qt 5W30 and 2qt 5W40.
At the next oil change, need to redo the calculations above :o)
For example, assuming winters are not cold in your area, you could consider running a 10W40 grade. Now you have in your engine full 5W20, so at the next oil change, you will have to change to 3qt 20W50 and 1qt 10W30. The result should come close to a 10W40 (assuming 2qt of 5W15 are left in your engine - yes, 5W15, because used oil looses at least 5 units with use).
But if winter is cold in your area, change your oil with 2qt 5W30 and 2qt 5W40.
At the next oil change, need to redo the calculations above :o)
09-01-2008, 09:24 AM
#23
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My daughter has the same PhD, that's really no excuse.
She knows how to work on her car and does it often!
She knows how to work on her car and does it often!
Last edited by Mazurfer; 09-02-2008 at 07:37 AM.
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