I have been using Mobil1 0-30 for about a month now and all is well.

 

5w30 should be fine for all years around IMO

I've been using it since 5K miles, no problems so far.

Oh yeah Paul, we need to see the picture of the exhaust ports. please ?

 

Didn't previous pictures show them?

 

I've been using 10w-40 royal purple since 3k miles. It doesnt get cold here and if it does its just for one day. I live in miami,fl so do you guys think it would be an issue for me to use the 10w-40? it gets so hot here that i think a thicker oil like im using would be better for these climates.

 

I was talking about the inside.

Remember a while ago Mazda Australia show some pic of Exhaust ports clogging up, without even saying the true cause. then all the Synthetic Haters start cheering up and said that Synthetic causes that ? I wanna see a picture of that part on Expo's motor, he should have more than enough miles of Synthetic oil.

 

you should be fine.

Im planning to make a trip to Autozone tomorrow to get some oil. They're doing a promote for 5 quarts of Syntec + 1 Moibl1 Oil filter for 25.99. Thats not bad IMO. 5w40, here I come !

 

I've been using the Lucas Upper cylinder lubricant for the last 3000 miles. i get better gas mileage and my idle is smoother. anyone else use this stuff as their premix?

 

Dude you always get these crazy deals... what do you clip out all the coupons on sundays

 

Here are some good ones showing the exhaust and more.

Paul.

 

Wow he's really got some carbon on the closing side of the exhaust ports. That's what that groove is for though.

 

I check their sites every month. if you have Autozone in ur area you can get it too, cuz I think this is a *national* deal thing.

There was a promote last month @ StraussAuto selling Mobil1 Gallon bottle for like 18 bux. + tax comes to less than 5 bux per quart, not bad for Mobil1 oil.

Oh btw, Do you still want to Billion hose ? My father is already in Hong Kong, **** let me PM swoope.

lol

It looks pretty clean to me for a over 100K miles Rotary engine.

 

Thanks for the pics Paul !

Maybe we should get all Synthetic haters to see these *actual, clear* picture (instead of the burry as hell and god knows what the owner did to the motor picture)

 

Yah man for sure! Those ones look bad *** :D

 

So what's the overall carbon verdict?

 

I'm not so sure what's so funny about that. It's true. Look at the closing edge of the exhaust ports again. They are nearly completely full. I wouldn't say the engine looks pretty clean for over 100K miles. I'd call it average.

 

it is allot of carbon there but overall it looks like a healthy engine tho. from the pics so far there is no unusual wear etc that i can tell. awaiting RE's words of course

 

I lol because like you said, its not that bad. Expo had 50-60K miles of Synthetic on the motor, it looks pretty decent.

Where did all the Synthetic haters go today ?


We're all waiting fom RE's words, arent we ?

 

The issue in my opinion with 10W is not the general heat of your climate.

When you turn off your engine the oil always get colder and thicker, especially overnight.

It takes time for oil to warm up and become an effective lubricant, around 160F deg.

This means until your engine warms up and thins the oil, your engine will be exposed to more wear than at normal operating temp.

0W and 5W will be thinner in the morning and get to lubricating your engine faster in the morning. An ester based oil, Redline or Motul for example, clings to metal and can prevent metal to metal contact during a cold/dry startup.

In studying the issue, I lean towards 0W30 being the appropriate oil. I think some ester based oil should be mixed in.

My understanding is Redline oil can be mixed in without any issues. Motul makes an 0W30 oil. The thing about ester based oil is it is expensive and I'm not sure about it being the primary oil used for a rotary engine.

At present I'm using Q horsepower 5W30 mixed with some Redline 5W30 to top it off and between oil changes. I'm thinking about the Motul oil, but trying to find out their opinion about mixing.

 

Im planning to get some Syntec tomorrow, maybe Advance Q as well.

How much did ya pay for your Redline anyway ? Im planning to go for 5w40 this time.

 

Aside from the carbon, which is pretty normal, it doesn't look bad. Of course measuring tolerances could tell us something that pictures can't.

 

A lot of the info that we will be providing will be observations and feel more than measurements. Things that are clearly visible, some even to the untrained eye. There are several reasons for this; the most important being Rick doesn't have time and is being coaxed into this 'documentation' thing by me. Don't worry, I won't disappoint and I will provide numbers where and if we can.

Tomorrow I'll give a general run down of observations, good and bad and then hopefully by the Saturday evening draw some verdicts and conclusions.

Paul.

 

Funny you should mention that. Seems I remember a Mazda marketing video where they stated that at the factory, the side seals were installed and set by hand because "no machine could do it accurrately enough". I was always puzzled by that statement. Surely there is a reliable way to quickly bring it to spec?

It shines a bright light on the experienced hand of a master.

 

Lets put it this way, a grandmaster builder can get the *feel* easily, much faster than using tools.

whatever it is, Im happy

 

When Rick taught me to build rotaries 16 years ago, he showed me how to cut side seals (He's got a device built for it) and how to check the clearances by feel.

Here are some more pics.

Paul.

 

That looks like a pretty nasty little groove that Rick is pointing out with his pocket knife in that thrid picture. What is that from? Also, why is that line of deposits there at the spark plug hole?