Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor
02-21-2008, 03:20 PM
#104
I've been using 10w-40 royal purple since 3k miles. It doesnt get cold here and if it does its just for one day. I live in miami,fl so do you guys think it would be an issue for me to use the 10w-40? it gets so hot here that i think a thicker oil like im using would be better for these climates.
02-21-2008, 03:30 PM
#105
I was talking about the inside.
Remember a while ago Mazda Australia show some pic of Exhaust ports clogging up, without even saying the true cause. then all the Synthetic Haters start cheering up and said that Synthetic causes that ? I wanna see a picture of that part on Expo's motor, he should have more than enough miles of Synthetic oil.
Remember a while ago Mazda Australia show some pic of Exhaust ports clogging up, without even saying the true cause. then all the Synthetic Haters start cheering up and said that Synthetic causes that ? I wanna see a picture of that part on Expo's motor, he should have more than enough miles of Synthetic oil.
02-21-2008, 03:38 PM
#106
I've been using 10w-40 royal purple since 3k miles. It doesnt get cold here and if it does its just for one day. I live in miami,fl so do you guys think it would be an issue for me to use the 10w-40? it gets so hot here that i think a thicker oil like im using would be better for these climates.
Im planning to make a trip to Autozone tomorrow to get some oil. They're doing a promote for 5 quarts of Syntec + 1 Moibl1 Oil filter for 25.99. Thats not bad IMO. 5w40, here I come !
Last edited by nycgps; 02-21-2008 at 04:06 PM.
02-21-2008, 03:44 PM
#107
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I've been using the Lucas Upper cylinder lubricant for the last 3000 miles. i get better gas mileage and my idle is smoother. anyone else use this stuff as their premix?
02-21-2008, 04:37 PM
#108
RX-8s Official Cool Guy
02-21-2008, 04:58 PM
#111
There was a promote last month @ StraussAuto selling Mobil1 Gallon bottle for like 18 bux. + tax comes to less than 5 bux per quart, not bad for Mobil1 oil.
Oh btw, Do you still want to Billion hose ? My father is already in Hong Kong, **** let me PM swoope.
It looks pretty clean to me for a over 100K miles Rotary engine.
Last edited by nycgps; 02-21-2008 at 05:01 PM.
02-21-2008, 05:08 PM
#113
RX-8s Official Cool Guy
02-21-2008, 05:42 PM
#115
Registered
I'm not so sure what's so funny about that. It's true. Look at the closing edge of the exhaust ports again. They are nearly completely full. I wouldn't say the engine looks pretty clean for over 100K miles. I'd call it average.
02-21-2008, 05:44 PM
#116
Administrator
it is allot of carbon there but overall it looks like a healthy engine tho. from the pics so far there is no unusual wear etc that i can tell. awaiting RE's words of course
02-21-2008, 07:01 PM
#118
I've been using 10w-40 royal purple since 3k miles. It doesnt get cold here and if it does its just for one day. I live in miami,fl so do you guys think it would be an issue for me to use the 10w-40? it gets so hot here that i think a thicker oil like im using would be better for these climates.
When you turn off your engine the oil always get colder and thicker, especially overnight.
It takes time for oil to warm up and become an effective lubricant, around 160F deg.
This means until your engine warms up and thins the oil, your engine will be exposed to more wear than at normal operating temp.
0W and 5W will be thinner in the morning and get to lubricating your engine faster in the morning. An ester based oil, Redline or Motul for example, clings to metal and can prevent metal to metal contact during a cold/dry startup.
In studying the issue, I lean towards 0W30 being the appropriate oil. I think some ester based oil should be mixed in.
My understanding is Redline oil can be mixed in without any issues. Motul makes an 0W30 oil. The thing about ester based oil is it is expensive and I'm not sure about it being the primary oil used for a rotary engine.
At present I'm using Q horsepower 5W30 mixed with some Redline 5W30 to top it off and between oil changes. I'm thinking about the Motul oil, but trying to find out their opinion about mixing.
02-21-2008, 07:09 PM
#119
The issue in my opinion with 10W is not the general heat of your climate.
When you turn off your engine the oil always get colder and thicker, especially overnight.
It takes time for oil to warm up and become an effective lubricant, around 160F deg.
This means until your engine warms up and thins the oil, your engine will be exposed to more wear than at normal operating temp.
0W and 5W will be thinner in the morning and get to lubricating your engine faster in the morning. An ester based oil, Redline or Motul for example, clings to metal and can prevent metal to metal contact during a cold/dry startup.
In studying the issue, I lean towards 0W30 being the appropriate oil. I think some ester based oil should be mixed in.
My understanding is Redline oil can be mixed in without any issues. Motul makes an 0W30 oil. The thing about ester based oil is it is expensive and I'm not sure about it being the primary oil used for a rotary engine.
At present I'm using Q horsepower 5W30 mixed with some Redline 5W30 to top it off and between oil changes. I'm thinking about the Motul oil, but trying to find out their opinion about mixing.
When you turn off your engine the oil always get colder and thicker, especially overnight.
It takes time for oil to warm up and become an effective lubricant, around 160F deg.
This means until your engine warms up and thins the oil, your engine will be exposed to more wear than at normal operating temp.
0W and 5W will be thinner in the morning and get to lubricating your engine faster in the morning. An ester based oil, Redline or Motul for example, clings to metal and can prevent metal to metal contact during a cold/dry startup.
In studying the issue, I lean towards 0W30 being the appropriate oil. I think some ester based oil should be mixed in.
My understanding is Redline oil can be mixed in without any issues. Motul makes an 0W30 oil. The thing about ester based oil is it is expensive and I'm not sure about it being the primary oil used for a rotary engine.
At present I'm using Q horsepower 5W30 mixed with some Redline 5W30 to top it off and between oil changes. I'm thinking about the Motul oil, but trying to find out their opinion about mixing.
How much did ya pay for your Redline anyway ? Im planning to go for 5w40 this time.
02-21-2008, 08:41 PM
#121
A lot of the info that we will be providing will be observations and feel more than measurements. Things that are clearly visible, some even to the untrained eye. There are several reasons for this; the most important being Rick doesn't have time and is being coaxed into this 'documentation' thing by me. Don't worry, I won't disappoint and I will provide numbers where and if we can.
Tomorrow I'll give a general run down of observations, good and bad and then hopefully by the Saturday evening draw some verdicts and conclusions.
Paul.
Tomorrow I'll give a general run down of observations, good and bad and then hopefully by the Saturday evening draw some verdicts and conclusions.
Paul.
02-22-2008, 12:52 AM
#122
It shines a bright light on the experienced hand of a master.
02-22-2008, 06:53 AM
#123
Funny you should mention that. Seems I remember a Mazda marketing video where they stated that at the factory, the side seals were installed and set by hand because "no machine could do it accurrately enough". I was always puzzled by that statement. Surely there is a reliable way to quickly bring it to spec?
It shines a bright light on the experienced hand of a master.
It shines a bright light on the experienced hand of a master.
whatever it is, Im happy
Last edited by nycgps; 02-22-2008 at 06:56 AM.
02-22-2008, 01:22 PM
#124
When Rick taught me to build rotaries 16 years ago, he showed me how to cut side seals (He's got a device built for it) and how to check the clearances by feel.
Here are some more pics.
Paul.
Here are some more pics.
Paul.
02-22-2008, 01:33 PM
#125
Finally Boosted!!!!!!!
That looks like a pretty nasty little groove that Rick is pointing out with his pocket knife in that thrid picture. What is that from? Also, why is that line of deposits there at the spark plug hole?