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Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor

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Old 02-20-2008, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mazmart
As I was saying previously, I think an O ring for the metering pump is the reason for the oil leakage and smoke at the race track Expo experienced. I have a lot of extra things to say as does Mr Engman but I'll do so shortly.

Paul.
wondering how many other track days are thinking it is the front seal, and it is the omp..

does make sense with the heat and increased flow that it would show up only then.


beers
Old 02-20-2008, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
lol, dont give me that ! u guys know what Im talking about !
I'll bet if you buy a few more items from Paul, then the pics will go up more quickly.
Old 02-20-2008, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Startl_Respons
I'll bet if you buy a few more items from Paul, then the pics will go up more quickly.
lol

I am out of cash ATM. you might be able to help out ?
Old 02-20-2008, 07:41 PM
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A few more my friends:
Attached Thumbnails Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor-pict0487.jpg   Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor-pict0488.jpg   Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor-pict0489.jpg   Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor-pict0490.jpg   Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor-pict0491.jpg  

Old 02-20-2008, 07:58 PM
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love the hat!!!!

beers
Old 02-20-2008, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by swoope
love the hat!!!!

beers
John Deere baby! If you look closely, the chair in front of the engine dyno has the same logo.

Paul.
Old 02-20-2008, 08:59 PM
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That rotor crust looks exactly like the royal purple residue I found unburnt during my tests.
Old 02-21-2008, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by staticlag
That rotor crust looks exactly like the royal purple residue I found unburnt during my tests.
??? Uh-oh...

I will point out that Japanese Mazda dealers use Castrol synthetic... so...

I do think that the issue with 10W40 should be explored more.

The most wear you put on your engine is when you start up in the morning. 10W oil will get thicker at night than 5W or 0W oil. When you start your engine, there will possibly be more wear as the 10W oil warms up.

This also presents the case to use an Ester based oil (like RedLine for example or Motul 0W30) or at least "top off" or mix some Ester based oil in as the Ester clings to metal better and reduces metal to metal contact on engine startup.

Last edited by sosonic; 02-21-2008 at 02:27 AM.
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Old 02-21-2008, 12:44 AM
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SS, you touch on a great point about viscosity versus molecular bonding.
Old 02-21-2008, 12:59 AM
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umm... interesting.
Old 02-21-2008, 02:02 AM
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So what do the pictures tell us? Is the rotor crust a serious problem? What can prevent the rotor crust?

Last edited by Startl_Respons; 02-21-2008 at 02:15 AM.
Old 02-21-2008, 02:15 AM
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all i know is i am waiting on the guy in the cool hats comment.. as i am sure it will be accurate and a bit profound..

but what do i know, i could be wrong..

beers
Old 02-21-2008, 05:13 AM
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I understand the hat!
Old 02-21-2008, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Startl_Respons
So what do the pictures tell us? Is the rotor crust a serious problem? What can prevent the rotor crust?
While some of this is from the oil injection/premixing, most is from the rich fuel mixture.

I have been saying for some time that the rotary is an extreme carbon producing machine and needs continous cleaners in the fuel, hopefully lubricious ones like FP Plus, MMO or Redline SI-1, to keep it cleaned out.

This should also show that 2-cycle premix alone does not provide enough cleaning as Expo was running Idemitsu Premix, which is a great ester-based premix known for few deposits and decent cleaners included.
Old 02-21-2008, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Jax_RX8
While some of this is from the oil injection/premixing, most is from the rich fuel mixture.

I have been saying for some time that the rotary is an extreme carbon producing machine and needs continous cleaners in the fuel, hopefully lubricious ones like FP Plus, MMO or Redline SI-1, to keep it cleaned out.

This should also show that 2-cycle premix alone does not provide enough cleaning as Expo was running Idemitsu Premix, which is a great ester-based premix known for few deposits and decent cleaners included.
The Renesis in general is prone to carbon buildup as is also the case with a lot of modern engines. In the process of keeping our environment clean we have hydrocarbon propulsion trash cans, storing up carbon until we dispose of them.

Paul.
Old 02-21-2008, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazmart
The Renesis in general is prone to carbon buildup as is also the case with a lot of modern engines. In the process of keeping our environment clean we have hydrocarbon propulsion trash cans, storing up carbon until we dispose of them.

Paul.
Haha.. how about we get them environmentalists to pay for our engine rebuilds
Old 02-21-2008, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by CnnmnSchnpps
Haha.. how about we get them environmentalists to pay for our engine rebuilds
Lol Good luck
Old 02-21-2008, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Lol Good luck
Yea, when they find out it is a carbon monster, they will be trying to ban it - or make you use all your allocated "carbon credits" on your car.
Old 02-21-2008, 11:44 AM
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Perhaps through the threat of "carbon tax" we can stomp out the annoying mouth-breathing so prevalent at the airports I have traveled lately.
Old 02-21-2008, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Perhaps through the threat of "carbon tax" we can stomp out the annoying mouth-breathing so prevalent at the airports I have traveled lately.
Yeah, what's up with these humans and their breathing? I don't get it.

PT
Old 02-21-2008, 11:59 AM
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Plenty of song lyrics and Sci-Fi stories have warned us about "taxing the air we breathe". Breathe, exhale, same thing. I wish all this junk science would quit messing with our standards of living and just fade away.
Old 02-21-2008, 01:32 PM
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Paul, is the rotor crust bad for our engines?

Have you disassembled a renesis that did not have rotor crust? What was the mileage on the engine? What did the owner do to prevent the crust?
Old 02-21-2008, 02:33 PM
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Is there shots of the ports?
Old 02-21-2008, 02:38 PM
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would, say.. shell v-power do a better job at removing the crust?
Old 02-21-2008, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sosonic
I do think that the issue with 10W40 should be explored more.

The most wear you put on your engine is when you start up in the morning. 10W oil will get thicker at night than 5W or 0W oil. When you start your engine, there will possibly be more wear as the 10W oil warms up.
Mobil1 makes a 0W-40 and RP/Redline make a 5W-40 for us in cold climates. I don't make long trips (or got to the track) in the winter so I use 5W-20 and then 5W-30 when it/if warms up. Perhaps a 0W-40 year round?


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