Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor
05-10-2008, 04:25 PM
#376
In general. It's crazy what they're doing to oils. Oils with the GF4/SM specifications are not what I would want in any engine of mine. Many governments and auto manufacturers will differ with me in that statement but we know what we want and we know what we're looking for.
Paul.
Paul.
05-10-2008, 06:31 PM
#377
i used to believe in synthetic(and they do have some advantages) but when i tore down my 50K engine(in which I ran a very popular 5/30 and 10/40 brand) my eccentric shaft front bearing on the bottom side, not top--was almost worn through the copper. Other bearings looked ok--so you may think it is a load thing. I dont know what would place a load on the bottom part of the bearing. So now i run a 20w 50 dino oil.
just my decision.
olddragger
just my decision.
olddragger
05-11-2008, 12:38 AM
#378
i used to believe in synthetic(and they do have some advantages) but when i tore down my 50K engine(in which I ran a very popular 5/30 and 10/40 brand) my eccentric shaft front bearing on the bottom side, not top--was almost worn through the copper. Other bearings looked ok--so you may think it is a load thing. I dont know what would place a load on the bottom part of the bearing. So now i run a 20w 50 dino oil.
just my decision.
olddragger
just my decision.
olddragger
meh ... maybe I should
05-11-2008, 12:50 AM
#379
In general. It's crazy what they're doing to oils. Oils with the GF4/SM specifications are not what I would want in any engine of mine. Many governments and auto manufacturers will differ with me in that statement but we know what we want and we know what we're looking for.
Paul.
Paul.
makes me say hummmm...
thanks for the work..
beers
05-11-2008, 02:31 PM
#381
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i used to believe in synthetic(and they do have some advantages) but when i tore down my 50K engine(in which I ran a very popular 5/30 and 10/40 brand) my eccentric shaft front bearing on the bottom side, not top--was almost worn through the copper. Other bearings looked ok--so you may think it is a load thing. I dont know what would place a load on the bottom part of the bearing. So now i run a 20w 50 dino oil.
just my decision.
olddragger
just my decision.
olddragger
05-11-2008, 04:09 PM
#382
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Seal.
05-11-2008, 06:33 PM
#386
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it wasn't intended to have much educational value to it....
just saying "wow, that's thick"....
20W50 is what the old rotaries used right? obviously the advantage is that it's thicker so it should reduce wear, but it is getting on the thick side.... there have to be some disadvantages, right?
just saying "wow, that's thick"....
20W50 is what the old rotaries used right? obviously the advantage is that it's thicker so it should reduce wear, but it is getting on the thick side.... there have to be some disadvantages, right?
05-11-2008, 09:35 PM
#387
it wasn't intended to have much educational value to it....
just saying "wow, that's thick"....
20W50 is what the old rotaries used right? obviously the advantage is that it's thicker so it should reduce wear, but it is getting on the thick side.... there have to be some disadvantages, right?
just saying "wow, that's thick"....
20W50 is what the old rotaries used right? obviously the advantage is that it's thicker so it should reduce wear, but it is getting on the thick side.... there have to be some disadvantages, right?
but the "truth" is not what you're thinking.
05-12-2008, 02:34 PM
#392
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I would second olddragger on temps. It all depends on where you measure it.
I have walked outside in the summer after work and had the 8's temp gauge pointing straight up before starting. Between the heat from the morning commute remaining in the engine, and ambient being about 120, the oil may still be at operating temps 9 hours later.
The surface of the asphalt will be a lot hotter than the 120 ambient. I started using synthetics because of the heat here.
Does 5-20 makes sense? I don't think so. I am open to ideas as to what viscosites are correct. Heavier is starting to look good for Arizona.
I have walked outside in the summer after work and had the 8's temp gauge pointing straight up before starting. Between the heat from the morning commute remaining in the engine, and ambient being about 120, the oil may still be at operating temps 9 hours later.
The surface of the asphalt will be a lot hotter than the 120 ambient. I started using synthetics because of the heat here.
Does 5-20 makes sense? I don't think so. I am open to ideas as to what viscosites are correct. Heavier is starting to look good for Arizona.
05-12-2008, 10:12 PM
#395
waiting on your thoughts on this matter ^_^
05-18-2008, 06:23 PM
#398
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10w 40 recomendation comes from a trusted source.
5w 20 is what the manual calls for and is likely a partial culprit for the early demise of some hot weather engines. I'm using 10w 40. As an aside, I didn't buy my RX8 for the gas mileage... but I did manage 22 mpg from the last three tanks using 10w 40. So, the insainly light 5w 20 Mazda recomends isn't really making any dent in the mpg department.
... now please go back and read some more of this thread!
5w 20 is what the manual calls for and is likely a partial culprit for the early demise of some hot weather engines. I'm using 10w 40. As an aside, I didn't buy my RX8 for the gas mileage... but I did manage 22 mpg from the last three tanks using 10w 40. So, the insainly light 5w 20 Mazda recomends isn't really making any dent in the mpg department.
... now please go back and read some more of this thread!
05-18-2008, 06:25 PM
#399
Hummmmm...
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I haven't had any problems with 5w30 Castrol GTX (0w30 Castrol Syntec for the synthetic folks) and would easily recommend it to other 8 owners and also any piston engine that can run oil of this weight
05-21-2008, 11:53 AM
#400
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Yeah same here I run 5w30 Castrol dino oil.
Would I really benefit that much of moving up to 10w40?
I really dont stomp on my car all day when driving it. I am in Dallas, TX tho.
Would I really benefit that much of moving up to 10w40?
I really dont stomp on my car all day when driving it. I am in Dallas, TX tho.