jasonrxeight

check for any isolation problem.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

i just removed the plastic housings leaving the electrical connectors in place. I had to bend the electrical connector to get a more snug fit, heat shrink wrapped x 2, then good quality electrical tape arounf corrigated platic wire tube. NP since and the steering has never worked better. It is also good to secure the wire harness.
OD

brillo

Sorry, I not sure I follow your suggestion, can you be more specific? Thanks

swoope

iTrader: (5)

would bet they just cleaned it.

i hope so.. if not rewire. if that does not work.. sucks to be you!

beers

sgt_slap_a_hoe

im trying to fix mine it just happened this morning, im not a car dude. How do i take off the air filter thing or whatever to check the harness and connectors?

van

iTrader: (2)

Will that latest part number (F151-67-SH0D) work with a 2004 RX8 without modification?

Also where can you order it online?

ASH8

YES, for ALL RX-8's this is the Latest and Greatest...

F151-67-SH0D

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214264

Mention you got this info from Rx-8 club site and I referred you, Jason will look after you...

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

to replace this wire, you have to take quite a lot of stuff out, Air filter box, the battery and the case, need to take the ECU plastic cover out, ECU out, and finally u will have access to everything.

u will need a 10mm socket and ratchet. working pair of hands, some common sense. Thats about it I think.

I know he posted it like 2 months ago, but good for whoever reading this I guess.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I always wonder what they changed. cut cost? changed the connector to something "better" ? dunno

van

iTrader: (2)

They are selling it for $97 USD + $35 shipping (to Canada). He knocked off $10 on shipping. (Normally $45 to ship).

I can get the harness from a local dealer (Wolfe Mazda Langley) for $129 + taxes, so I think I just might get it locally instead.

Did you guys extend the Coolant drainage by-pass hose?

Also I can easily see the grey connectors at the top of the radiator, but can't seem to find where the bottom end of the harness connects to. Looks like a major bitch to get at. I think I just might get the dealer to install the harness (dealer charges $86 to install it). I sure hope it's the harness that's causing the PS light, and not something else that's expensive.

Update: My particular problem is strange. I just started my car recently and the PS light mysteriously vanished and I had PS. Drove it around, turned it off, then back on again, and the PS Light goes back on again. I turn off and restart the engine, and the light goes off, and PS is working again. Strange! Problem only seems to occur when restarting the car. The PS never shuts off when it's working and the car is running.

Update 2: Removed air intake to clean harness, and noticed oil dripping at the bottom of the intake and onto the tray. Opened the air intake, and there was a pool of engine oil in the intake, air filter, and in the accordian assembly. WTF!? Looks like I'll definitely be installing an Oil Catch Can.

Update 3: Completely cleaned out intake and installed new paper air filter. Drenched the two PS harness connections with contact cleaner. Connected everything back together. PS warning light is no longer on. Hopefully the problem is solved.


.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I guess its my turn

I clean my connectors a while ago (maybe 2 yrs ago)

it works well never had a problem until recently, the steering wheel shakes in the first minute of warm up (maybe 2),

its like if you try to turn it "left" the steering wheel wobbles for maybe 1/4 turn, then it stops. same thing for the right.

I wonder if its the rack giving out or wires going bad. I re-route the coolant thing maybe 1/2 yr ago ... should I try to clean it again?

the S1 power steering cable is a lot longer compare to S2. but it cost like 30 times of the S2 cable.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Great I'm also having my PS light come on after start up, but only when I park at steep angles with the nose facing up. If I roll the car back and restart it, it works fine... >.<
I suffer from no other problems, it's never gone off on me while driving yet, but I don't want it to get to that point.

It's just the 97 dollar harness that is needed correct? I know I should take it apart and clean the connectors, but I much rather just replace the harness while I'm at it and be done with it.

-Shawn

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Well I found my problem.... Apparently I'm not the first owner to have this issue. Someone cut up the wires on both engine bay and steering harness, and spliced their own plug in. They added more wire, but for some reason put it right back below the overflow bottle. I redid all the connections, and cleaned the plugs. Moved the wires away and extended the coolant hose to the bottom of the radiator. Working great so far.

-Shawn

itachi1

I'm having the P/S problem right now and I still a lot to check. First clean the Harness/connectors after a ratiator leak and replacement then an overflow.

Aslo, I need to check the battery to check the wire that connects to the Positive post. Since my friend and I removed the battery to replace the ratiator on the Christmas weekend. I will update my problem here instead since the other thread doesn't have as much info. like this one.

But I didn't read about the reset that can save you on a good arm work out if the light shows up and you won't have to call a tow truck like I did.

To reset the power steering as someone posted it in another thread that it's in the owners manual: Turn on the ignition but not the car and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left until it stops (YES it will be hard to turn but put your back into it) then all the way to the right until it stops and then turn on your car and the light should be gone. Maybe for a while or a momment but it does help to know

itachi1

Update: ok i cleaned the harness/connectors took it for a spin and no P/S light, i shut my engine off 3 times and turn it back on to check if the light would come back but it didn't, since twice before cleaning the connectors I got the P/S light on the 3rd engine start after the reset. So hopefully this helps...

Will update if I get the P/S light again or in 2 weeks meaning i fix the problem. Cheers and thanks to every for your help.

joshesgirl

Just bought my 04 rx8 on the 2nd of February and 9 days later it slings me into the next lane at 50mph.
Stupid Mazda has tried fixing it twice and now they are saying its the PS Rack at $982. I have read all of your posts on here and i already have more faith in you guys than them. I will be bringing it to my mechanic tomorrow to get the wiring harness changed and the overflow hose extended. Thank you for your insight.

Is there anything else I need to know about common issues with rx8's?

Thanks,
Jennifer

jose rx8

Hi everybody, I am happy to report I have successfully troubleshhot and repair my power steering system. I got an automatic 2004 RX8 and began the warning light with no reason.
I took it to a local shop end they replace the connector. Works great for two month and fail again.
First, get the code reader (computer) connect it to the car and identify which code appears. Write it down.

Most of the power steering failures are related to the electric harness, I noticed that some members replaced it for a hundred bucks and problem solve but it can be repaired, just for the fun of it.

The otrer information you will need is in the Power Steering shop manual which I found on these threads. It looks complicates at the beginning but you got to be pattience, look for the code you found with the computer.

The codes are at the last pages of the manual, when you get a match, now you know which are the wires that looks to be the problem. Only tool you will need is a multimeter to check continuity, in my case I found a loose wire that connects to the engine computer, cut it, joint and tape.

Now I am another happy owner, again. And enjoy the drive.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Mines still working fine since the repairs I've made.

itachi1

Seems That I fix my problem after cleaning the harness/ connectors it worked I still got to go back and extend the overflow hose but so far it's working perfectly

ElectricGenius

Im having same trouble, steering shakes and hard in the morning or when cold. When I turn to the left it shakes when I turn to the right its hard. The way I quickly get rid of this is tuning it to left first then right doing this about 3 times and it gets rid of the shacking and hard steering then I can drive away.

On the steering harness part # F151-67-SHOB I have cleaned the round ground ring which goes to the steering motor housing, I have also checked resistance from the steering rack to battery ground terminal and is OK. I have put dielectric grease on all the connectors of harness part # F151-67-SHOB the 2 large wires which go to the steering motor, ive lubed both sides. I have also lubed the 3 pin connector on both sides that go to the torque sensor. Ive taken a reading from the torque sensor from middle pin to outside pins and both get around 13 to 15 ohms with the car off which is the reading you should get so that is normal. I have replaced the steering electronic module and the motor noise filter inductor, still same problem.

I found an online manual that explains how to set the neutral position from the EPS using a diagnostic tool buy using these parameters TRQ_S_CAL active command mode function. I have not tried that yet. I found the online manual here ---> http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/

Since I know the problem of the small radiator reservoir hose drips hot water on the steering motor connector and the torque sensor connector I have Jumpered/ bridged with wires the torque sensor connector and tapped a good area where hot water did get to it, still problem exist. I need to jump the steering motor connector and test that next. Since these are high gauge wires its possible that from the heat several copper strands have opened up internally and does not have enough amperage to move the motor so it hesitates and results this problem. I will jumper and bridge the steering motor wires from the section of where the hot water from the radiator leaked and isolate that. If all this checks OK and still problem, I will order new steering cable anyway and try.

Im wondering what signals pass through the torque sensor its possible I have a damage torque sensor, but need to know what signals need to be there. I though the torque sensor was an internal potentiometer but if that was the case the 15 ohm resistance will change as you steer in different direction and it does not it always stays at 15 ohms. Does anyone know what type of sensor this is and why it does not vary resistance when I turn the wheel? Maybe its an opto sensor or magnetic sensor. My next thing is to put an oscilloscope on the wires of the torque sensor in the morning when is acting up to see what kind of signals i get, They might be on and off square wave signals which then go to the steering module to process the position of the steering.
Im wondering if an OBDII diagnostic tool can diagnose the torque sensor so I can isolate it?


Is there any Rotary technicians on this forum that has actually done this repair and been successful.

I've ready almost all the forums on the RX-8 steering issue and some members have replace steering harness and worked for some and not for others, some have replace the entire rack and some worked for some and not for others. This is a very tough thing to troubleshoot since you can only really diagnose it when its cold, when its not acting up its very hard to find the problem.

Another test I will do is to test the Rack to make sure is not binding when cold, the way I will do it is that I will jack up the car to take pressure off the steering system and motor to see if it acts up. if the rack is binding or partially locked when cold and all that force is there It can cause the steering motor to hesitate and cause this symptom as well, steering motor will heat up if that is the case, so I will do this test to see if its hard or shakes jacked up when its cold. This is one of the last things I though in doing.

I also replace the battery since mine was getting old thinking there was not enough power at first to power up the rack steering motor but that was not the problem.


By the way my RX-8 is year 2004


Electric_Genius

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

The problem is mostly from a fried (shorted) torque sensor. You can actually disassemble the whole rack, i just cant find the replacement.

The motor itself can be the problem too, but compared to some other eps i had deal with, rx8's rack is actually fairly durable(except the retarded coolant dripping on the connector part)

ElectricGenius

How is the torque sensor tested? Is ohming out correctly 15 ohms on one end and 15 ohms on the other. What type of sensor is it mechanical switch type, opto, proximity or magnetic sensor?


I did other test yesterday:


Jacked up the car so not a lot of pressure will be on the wheels and rack started it in morning when cold. Same problem steering still vibrates when steering left and hard when steering right.

I took the EPS electronic module apart and resoldered all connectiions including all the power transistors and the 2 relays internally. Mazda seems to tap weld them not solder these specific joints, I had to use a high power soldering iron at about 725 degrees Fahrenheit. Still same problem. Maybe one of the two internal relays inside the EPS module is intermittent and causing this but the relays are sealed I cannot clean the contacts on them. I also found a Hybrid chip module the has a conductor metal passing though it and I think is to monitor AC current. Im wondering if the EPS Motor is an AC or DC motor because that chip inside the EPS module is to monitor its corrent, similar to a AC clamp meter. Im assuming if EPS motor is binding when car is cold it can cause too much amperage draw and the monitoring chip sends signal to EPS processor causing it to shut down for that fraction of a second. I replace the EPS module with a used one but its possible the use one I bought also has the same problem. I really think is between the EPS module, motor, rack enclosure or torque sensor but need to do a little bit more testing.


If any Mazda technicians know the procedure for testing the torque sensor or EPS module I would like to know the procedure. Or if I can buy a diagnostic tool to tell me this.


Electric_Genius