Hmm...55 gallon drum?

I'll have to look into it. I've been doing a ton of reading about various 2 cycle oils and motor oil in general. I have plans to do some testing via Blackstone Labs on some motor oil I'm considering on using. For some reason I've really had a hard time sticking with a motor oil simply because of advertising or claims made by the manufacturer.

Other people I trust have made oil suggestions with everything from "use this only" to "doesn't matter you change it every 3,000 miles anyway".

I've been using Royal Purple 2 cycle cause BHR had some on hand. It's TWC3 certified but based on what I've read (and been told) stuff that's JASO certified is far superior and usually found in air cooled engines which is what I really need.

 

Why? just curious, other than mixing dino + synth.

 

Haha, I run synthetic oil and mineral-based premix!!!

 

You're not too late. Here's the thread that tells you how to use the discount code:
https://www.rx8club.com/group-buy-center-85/lube-control-products-group-buy-176794/

 

I have had the best anecdotal results with MMO. I get an extra 10 to 20 miles per tank when using it, and that has been extremely repeatable (aka, whenever I fill after I've run out of MMO I lose the miles, even when using Idemitsu instead). I'm using 6oz/tank.

I used to use Idemitsu + FP plus. I had a big bottle of FP plus in my trunk most of the time, and by the time i had 1/4 left I noticed solids forming in the bottom of it. I stopped using it then. Been happy with the MMO since.

 

Just for the record... I have been using 5 oz of Lucas Semi-synthetic with 1 oz of Marvel Mystery oil for a total of 6oz per tank.... been happy with the results. Any flames for using this combo?

 

So it seems like there's two primary premix camps; just MMO, and Idemitsu w/ FP Plus. Is anyone using Idemitsu with MMO, or maybe even 4 oz Idemitsu w/ 1 oz of MMO and 1 oz of FP Plus?

 

there are about 10 camps but yeah ......

 

Time for an Idemitsu Group Buy?

 

Just checked back in and saw this, thanks shadycrew31. I keep getting an oil light on the freeway though.

 

that could be a myriad of issues.

obviously the first thing to check is your oil level. and by freeway you mean getting on the on ramp? or long steady drives kept at the same rpm? does it happen on city streets as well?

Have you changed yrou crush washer recently on your drain plug?

Do you have any oil leaks (front seal, pan, etc)?

 

Thanks for the response...

I constantly check my oil levels and it is good. It seems to only come on when I am on the freeway driving at 70+mph constantly for at least 5-10 miles. Then it turns off when I go back to the street or get home and I turn it off, then if I turn it back on it resets and doesn't come back until I get on the freeway again.

It all started happening when I started doing my own oil/filter changes. I also used the tilt method to get all the oil out of my pan. Where you jack up on side of the car, drain it, then bring it down and jack up the other side.

I have not changed my crush washer on my oil drain plug. Could that be the culprit?

Could it be my oil sensor? It only happens in highspeeds for long distances and I have changed the weight to 5w30 Castrol High mileage with burn off protection. If I drive it on the street it is fine car runs fine with light on, just a little worrisome.

 

I have finally decided that I want to start premixing, and would like to do it tomorrow when I fill up. I currently have 4k miles on my reman engine. I really would like to cut down on the exhaust soot build up. I have some questions though. I have been researching this for a while, but am still confused. So I should add approximately 4-8 ounces before filling up on a 3/4 empty tank? Also, what recommendations do you have for premix that I could pick up a local kragen autoparts? If you could include the exact label specifications, that would be great to help me find it easier. If possible, I would like to purchase it so I can just dump it all in and then fill up without having to measure it out. Any help and recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Fanatic, you really want to purchase a case of Idemitsu 2-stroke premix (get the premix, not the engine oils). Then you mix that with a lubricious cleanser like FP Plus (apparently the best choice) or Marvel's Mystery Oil. I've just put in my order for a case of Idemitsu but haven't yet ordered FP Plus - I'm sold on the idea that the chemical in it turns carbon into graphite (good into bad), but I haven't yet seen any statistical evidence that the concentration or formula does what it says (I haven't done the research yet, so that's not to say that it doesn't exist). What I've been doing for the past 2k since I bought my '04, is adding 8 oz. of Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO) per 13.5 gallons or so (empty). That's the best option that you can get at your local auto store, and not only is it cheap but it has a 100 or so year history. You should still add the Idemitsu though, MMO is more of a gentle cleaner than a lubricator. When I get the Idemitsu I plan on mixing 4 oz. of Idemitsu premix with 2-4 oz. MMO per fillup from empty.

Also, if you've been using the factory recommended 5W-20 oil, you need to switch to 5W-30 or higher.

 

One problem that's been documented with heavier pre-mix oils is clogging of the fuel-pump filter. To avoid it, the thought is to "pre-mix the pre-mix", meaning combining the premix oil with some gasoline in a small container, then adding that mixture to the tank. Quite a bother, imo.

Some, including myself, are using Marvel Mystery Oil as the sole pre-mix. It has the advantage of mixing very rapidly with gasoline and shouldn't have the problem of gumming up the fuel-pump filter. So it is one choice that can satisfy your desire to just dump it in and fill with gas.

Given this engine's tendency to carbon problems, the cleaning action of MMO seems like an asset. It also does provide some lubrication. Although it's a light oil, keep in mind it is combining with the existing lubrication from the oil-metering pump. It also contains some anti-scuff additives which seem appropriate to the application. Some deride it as 1920's technology, which is true enough. But there are plenty of pilots who swear by it in aircraft engines for its ability to prevent stuck valves and plug-fouling as well as upper-cylinder lubrication. As with any of this stuff, it's a judgement call. It's not like anyone is spending millions of dollars laboratory-testing these products in Mazda rotary engines.

As far as not having to measure, you can fill an appropriate-sized bottle beforehand. What I do with MMO is buy a gallon container, and I also have an empty 32-oz MMO bottle. I marked out graduations on the outside of the bottle with a magic marker. This lets me be accurate enough, lets me carry several tanks worth of premix in the passthrough compartment, and the 32 oz MMO bottle pours well enough without being messy.

 

Just get MMO. It's cheap and easy to find, unlike Idemitsu + FP Plus. I've run both at different times for long periods, and I'm not convinced either is better than the other. So now I just use MMO. You will see/feel a difference immediately. I use 6oz per tank as long as I'm at 1/4 or below. You can try the other stuff later, but start MMO today! The 32oz bottle is graduated in 2oz increments. I'm so good at dumping in premix I can do any 2 oz increment in one shot (2, 4, or 6!).

 

Lucas UCL bottle filled to start of neck is with MMO real close to 4 oz. add to that 2 stroke oil or Lucas and I am set.
Never have had a prob yet.

 

I use idemitsu for premix and it works oh soo good. I have been using this for about 4 years now. In the past on my 13B Powered Toyota Starlet and now on my 8. Would Recomend To Anyone!!!

 

http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_210.htm
Here ya go Spirograph This link sould take you straight to the premix oil

That Top One is Wrong... Sorry about that... This One Should do it for ya...

http://www.mazdatrix.com/q-supply.htm

and If you would like to further compare prices here are all the authorized vendors of Idemitsu Racing oils... Hope this helps...

http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_204.htm

 

that would not be prudent..

if i were to use a syn 2 stroke oil in my gas tank.

i would go to a convince store. buy a 1 liter bottle of aquafina water.

pour the water out. that is your new premix bottle.. the mouth is just the right size.

follow this method.

start filling the car with gas. add premix. fp+ or what ever you use, to the aquafina bottle. by the time you do that the car will be about half tank.

take the gas nozzle out of the car and fill the aquafina bottle with your goodies to about 3/4 full.

fill the car the rest of the way up with gas. while that is going on give the bottle a few shakes.

after the tank is full. and the nozzle is back in the thing that took you money. slowly add the mixed premix to your tank.

this just some stuff i learned..

and this is just my opinion, i could be wrong..

beers

 

Thanks guys. All your input for my situation was of great help! I went ahead and purchased the MMO at Kragen. I then went to the gas station and poured in approximately four ounces, to be safe, into the tank. I then filled it up with gas. I only used 4 ounces to begin with because I wanted to start out with a conservative amount and play it safe, even-though I could have used more. You guys were right about noticing it right away. When I started the car up, I was surprised how smooth the idle was. Mine was pretty smooth to begin with, but I could still tell the effect the premix had. Maybe that whole placebo effect took place and it didn't really change that much, but hell, I know it is doing something useful to make the combustions more efficient.

 

Thanks Swoope! I will try this method eventually. Since this is all brand new to me, I will just stick to the current method I was using. When I feel more comfortable, I will want to try your method. With MMO at only 4 ounces per tank, I won't have to worry about any negative effects later down the road... right?

 

Oh man guys I've read through over 35 pages of this thread and I have finally decided to use a premix...

I bought a used 2005 RX-8 from a local dealer about 8 months ago. I've been following the owners manual to a T. I also vaguely remember reading in a little sheet in the manual that synthetic oil is somehow bad for rotarys. But apparently everyone is using it here! So before I add anything to my engine...

Can I use a synthetic oil 5W-20 (not for premix....regular oil filling)
Should I use 5W-30 Synthetic if I can find it as someone posted earlier (not premix)?
Just for starters should I use MMO for premix as Fanatic is above?

Thanks guys....sorry for my less than saavy lingo!

 

AHH, Not ALL of us use Synthetic Engine OIL....I don't/won't..

I do use Synth 2 Stroke for Pre-Mix...Amsoil Saber Pro...VERY GOOD.

I would not use engine oil for a Pre-Mix, the good 2 Strokes are designed to mix with Gas, I find Amsoil mixes VERY easily (I have done many tests in clear containers, then add my ratio of Amsoil, the slightest movement mixes through all the fuel very easily...and does not settle to the bottom of clear bottle at all, even after 2 months sitting undisturbed.

I am not big in mixing MMO and "other" additives for a pre-mix, IMO just stick to a JASO Quality 2 stroke. The purpose is to LUBRICATE Apex, Corner and side seals, it is not a mechanic in a bottle....KISS...Keep it simple S.

 

MMO isn't just some additive, it is oil. Everyone here glosses over it but it does lubricate (quite well imo), it's not just a cleaner. It's exactly what we want, oil + cleaner, just like mixing the two stroke oil and FP plus cocktail, except it's much cheaper and can be found anywhere. It has a long history of use as rotary premix.