Gas/Oil Premix Thread
I said on page one, "don't use boat oil", and I'm still saying it five years and 35 pages of this thread later......
Please check the specs for JASO or ISO, it's childsplay these days with a google search - we run a two cylinder engine, equipped with two carbs for two separate fuel supplies. We run the oil lean and it must protect at 150:1, then richen up the pre-mix to 10:1 and any smoke is a fail!
Let's see boat slime meet that spec - it can't, it's too heavy, burns too smoky and leaves huge deposits if it does burn, because it's not designed to.
Boat oil is designed to slobber out with the exhaust, that's why bio-degradability is the prime focus of the specs. Unless your car discharges it's exhaust below the water level of a freshwater lake, it's not the right oil for you.
This is actually the last time I'm going to type this, I'm done with this thread.
All this has been stated irrefutably several times, but the specs are ignored and we go for another round of "I found this barge oil slime on sale down at the Cabelas, and I'm very happy with it," based on zero information; "my motor likes it...." "I get 14% better mileage..." " the engine response is incredible....".........bullshit.
So if your Pappy used Auto Tranny Fluid, Mystery Milk or Cat Diesel Fuel Enricher in his '47 DeSoto, then you should use it, just don't ask me what I recommend cos I'm out of here, done and finished. (Don't let thirty plus years in refining and chemicals hit me in the ***?.....)
S
Please check the specs for JASO or ISO, it's childsplay these days with a google search - we run a two cylinder engine, equipped with two carbs for two separate fuel supplies. We run the oil lean and it must protect at 150:1, then richen up the pre-mix to 10:1 and any smoke is a fail!
Let's see boat slime meet that spec - it can't, it's too heavy, burns too smoky and leaves huge deposits if it does burn, because it's not designed to.
Boat oil is designed to slobber out with the exhaust, that's why bio-degradability is the prime focus of the specs. Unless your car discharges it's exhaust below the water level of a freshwater lake, it's not the right oil for you.
This is actually the last time I'm going to type this, I'm done with this thread.
All this has been stated irrefutably several times, but the specs are ignored and we go for another round of "I found this barge oil slime on sale down at the Cabelas, and I'm very happy with it," based on zero information; "my motor likes it...." "I get 14% better mileage..." " the engine response is incredible....".........bullshit.
So if your Pappy used Auto Tranny Fluid, Mystery Milk or Cat Diesel Fuel Enricher in his '47 DeSoto, then you should use it, just don't ask me what I recommend cos I'm out of here, done and finished. (Don't let thirty plus years in refining and chemicals hit me in the ***?.....)
S
beers
You guys can use what you want... its you car.
If some of you are looking at starting yet another childish argument, you'll have to wait for someone else because I could care less.
This is why I recommended to people to gather the mess they read here, and also research outside the forum.
This isn't the only rotary website, read what others say too, and go from there.
You should never feel that you have to take the word from me or anyone else.
But if you have doubt, do a little homework.
If some of you are looking at starting yet another childish argument, you'll have to wait for someone else because I could care less.
This is why I recommended to people to gather the mess they read here, and also research outside the forum.
This isn't the only rotary website, read what others say too, and go from there.
You should never feel that you have to take the word from me or anyone else.
But if you have doubt, do a little homework.
I like to hear opinions from experts like Stealth who works with refining and chemicals, but it quickly turns ugly when people get upset and start making others feel dumb.
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,880
Likes: 340
From: Australia
I would hope that this can be discussed without conflicts.
I was more referring to Stealth's post where he appeared to be a little upset over this.
Registered
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: LaVergne, TN
i know i've talked to a guy that knows a lot about rx7's and he told me to use the cheapest stuff that you can buy at walmart....
i just couldn't see myself putting something like that into my car.... to me its kind of like buying the cheap gas vs. buying good quality gas
sure they both do the same thing... but one does better than the other for a little more
i just couldn't see myself putting something like that into my car.... to me its kind of like buying the cheap gas vs. buying good quality gas
sure they both do the same thing... but one does better than the other for a little more
I went to that site thinking they've been running rotary for awhile and would know what is fine to use.
Most posts say that any TC-W3 oil will due, but they also say Idemitsu is the best.
I just wonder why there is conflicting information between these two forums.
And that's the kind of responses I read on the RX7club forums.
I went to that site thinking they've been running rotary for awhile and would know what is fine to use.
Most posts say that any TC-W3 oil will due, but they also say Idemitsu is the best.
I just wonder why there is conflicting information between these two forums.
I went to that site thinking they've been running rotary for awhile and would know what is fine to use.
Most posts say that any TC-W3 oil will due, but they also say Idemitsu is the best.
I just wonder why there is conflicting information between these two forums.
beers
Registered
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,932
Likes: 0
From: Hunterdon County
And that's the kind of responses I read on the RX7club forums.
I went to that site thinking they've been running rotary for awhile and would know what is fine to use.
Most posts say that any TC-W3 oil will due, but they also say Idemitsu is the best.
I just wonder why there is conflicting information between these two forums.
I went to that site thinking they've been running rotary for awhile and would know what is fine to use.
Most posts say that any TC-W3 oil will due, but they also say Idemitsu is the best.
I just wonder why there is conflicting information between these two forums.
Registered
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 338
Likes: 1
From: B'ham, Alabama
Registered
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 427
Likes: 1
From: Europe - Greece
I said on page one, "don't use boat oil", and I'm still saying it five years and 35 pages of this thread later......
Please check the specs for JASO or ISO, it's childsplay these days with a google search - we run a two cylinder engine, equipped with two carbs for two separate fuel supplies. We run the oil lean and it must protect at 150:1, then richen up the pre-mix to 10:1 and any smoke is a fail!
Let's see boat slime meet that spec - it can't, it's too heavy, burns too smoky and leaves huge deposits if it does burn, because it's not designed to.
Boat oil is designed to slobber out with the exhaust, that's why bio-degradability is the prime focus of the specs. Unless your car discharges it's exhaust below the water level of a freshwater lake, it's not the right oil for you.
This is actually the last time I'm going to type this, I'm done with this thread.
All this has been stated irrefutably several times, but the specs are ignored and we go for another round of "I found this barge oil slime on sale down at the Cabelas, and I'm very happy with it," based on zero information; "my motor likes it...." "I get 14% better mileage..." " the engine response is incredible....".........bullshit.
So if your Pappy used Auto Tranny Fluid, Mystery Milk or Cat Diesel Fuel Enricher in his '47 DeSoto, then you should use it, just don't ask me what I recommend cos I'm out of here, done and finished. (Don't let thirty plus years in refining and chemicals hit me in the ***?.....)
S
Please check the specs for JASO or ISO, it's childsplay these days with a google search - we run a two cylinder engine, equipped with two carbs for two separate fuel supplies. We run the oil lean and it must protect at 150:1, then richen up the pre-mix to 10:1 and any smoke is a fail!
Let's see boat slime meet that spec - it can't, it's too heavy, burns too smoky and leaves huge deposits if it does burn, because it's not designed to.
Boat oil is designed to slobber out with the exhaust, that's why bio-degradability is the prime focus of the specs. Unless your car discharges it's exhaust below the water level of a freshwater lake, it's not the right oil for you.
This is actually the last time I'm going to type this, I'm done with this thread.
All this has been stated irrefutably several times, but the specs are ignored and we go for another round of "I found this barge oil slime on sale down at the Cabelas, and I'm very happy with it," based on zero information; "my motor likes it...." "I get 14% better mileage..." " the engine response is incredible....".........bullshit.
So if your Pappy used Auto Tranny Fluid, Mystery Milk or Cat Diesel Fuel Enricher in his '47 DeSoto, then you should use it, just don't ask me what I recommend cos I'm out of here, done and finished. (Don't let thirty plus years in refining and chemicals hit me in the ***?.....)
S
AMSOIL ATP SABER PRO ISO-L-EGD, JASO FD, API TC is categorized as boat oil in my local shop !!!!
Registered
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
From: Montreal,QC
Many of these oils ARE multi-purpose depending on the engine your using.
What he wants to prevent I think is using dedicated boat oils, like this one.
Amsoil Saber Outboard
TC-W3, API TC
NOT ISO or JASO.
This is specifically a boat oil.
What he wants to prevent I think is using dedicated boat oils, like this one.
Amsoil Saber Outboard
TC-W3, API TC
NOT ISO or JASO.
This is specifically a boat oil.
Lubricious
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,425
Likes: 4
From: SF Bay Area, California
That would at least be a start, although still doesn't give the final answer of "how well does it work in the Renesis engine?" Is smoke at 10:1 a concern when I am running 200:1 to supplement a functioning OMP? How much carbon is it adding vs. how much is being removed? What *type* of carbon -- is it the soft flaky stuff that self-cleans or the hard tacky stuff that causes stuck seals?
Without real answers to any of these questions, we're all flying blind. It's a unique situation. We have fairly widespread agreement that pre-mix in general is a good thing for this engine. But of course, if you were to ask Mazda if it's ok to add oil to the gas you'd almost certainly get an emphatic "NO!". Or maybe they'd weasel around it with "cannot recommend"...
Meanwhile we have people like yourself who claim to have inside knowledge and rigorous tests. But where is the data? In the absence thereof, If I hear from an RX-7 owner who ran MMO for 200K, I'm thinking "F***in' hey! That is a data point. Thanks, Pappy!".
I have never pre-mixed and with the OMP volumes MM sets with the AP and the hammering I give my engine it still runs like a champ, even after 40K miles since my rebuild over two years ago. On the other hand, I am using the Sohn OMP Adapter.