You can't go wrong with Saber Pro. I would think MMO cleans better but no one really knows what is in it. Lucas is definitely a lubricant before all else. Just buy them and pour them out into a glass and you will see the diff.

 

^^^

Why don't you try Idemitsu and FP Plus then?

I currently use that combination. Just to give you a bit of my observations:

- Idemitsu mixes very well with the FP Plus. It makes it a more uniform mixture and it seems to mix into the gas quite well. I tried to see what the solubility of Idemitsu premix and gas was. It didn't mix in as well as the combination of FP Plus and Idemitsu premix.

- I've noticed less carbon build up on my spark plugs when I change them. I think part of this is attributed to FP Plus's characteristics. It supposedly turns carbon into a lubricious graphite material.

- My catalytic converter has been holding up so far with 4oz Idemitsu premix and 2oz FP Plus. I might run a heavier concentration when at the track, but for the street, I think this is just fine.

 

I did. The Amsoil took a lot of agitation to mix. The Lucas UCL and MMO mixed readily. I took my finger (in a nitrile glove) put it in each mixture and rubbed against the glass. I couldn't sense any lubrication, but I know this isn't a good lab. I did expect to feel some slipperyness (sp?) especially given the higher concentration of additive than what I put in my tank (1/2 oz per gallon).

 

Yes, well I have too did the Amsoil Saber Pro in a clear one litre bottle with 4 mils of ASP.

As soon as I put the Blue Amsoil in it starts to dissipate, a little movement and it is completely and thoroughly mixes....??

I also use this at a 25:1 ratio for my 2 stroke lawn-mower, and it runs really well....with a sweet smell...

IMO these other "thicker" pre-mixes may be the ones causing the Fuel Pump sock to block..

I left the container of gas and ASP on my bench table top for over a month (undisturbed) and there was NO bottom settlement at all..

So I do not know, this was using our Mobil 98 RON octane petrol (gas) which is a clear light urine yellow, add the Saber Pro and it turns a slight shade of green.

I only use ASP and have been extremely happy with the results, when I shine a flash-light up my exhaust there is very little build up, a very slight bluey colour or hue.

Certainly not the dark sooty black when compared to other car exhausts.

So as I see it if my exhaust tail pipe outlets look this "clean" then I would think my engines exhaust ports would be similar??

 

No it is not just you mate...

I guess I was one of the first to use Pre-mix in my S2 from day 1, and my car likes it so far, IMO it will give you more complete compressions because of better metal to metal seal sealing.

Yes, I know the S2 with the extra Oil Weeper does a better job of Lubrication, but, I do it for Insurance and the Fact that the S2's actually uses less engine oil than S1, this fact is even noted in the S2 Factory Service Highlights.

Quote...

METERING OIL PUMP CONSTRUCTION/OPERATION [13B-MSP]

Construction

* An electric metering oil pump system has been adopted to optimally control the oil injection amount for effective oil supply and lower oil consumption.

Unquote..

There are No downsides to pre-mixing in ANY rotary, but, IMO you can go overboard with too many concoctions/mixes...that is just me..

 

From what I've read the combustion event deposits residual oil on the metal surfaces. So the lubricity of the gasoline/oil mixture itself is probably not relevant.

 

beers

 

Forgive me - I have read many 30, 40 and 80 page posts, but I haven't learned how i can clean or change my fuel pump sock. Is there a DIY? Also, would cleaning it/changing it be easier if I converted to an '09 fuel pump?

 

Swoope.... 'above' is the man to see on that one...

 

I did the Aquafina mix test with Royal Purple TCW III (yes, I've read the threads on TCW). Filled the bottle half full with gasoline, added 4 oz of TCW III, and the force of gravity was enough to ensure the oil mixed completely. No settling to the bottom. Took a picture (I was assuming I'd have to at least add more fuel to complete the mixing, if not shake the bottle) but it's not even worth posting.

 

So I'm finally out of FP60 and I was planning on re-ordering some, but it doesn't seem like it is the additive of choice any more?

 

Jax bought a pick-up truck so he isn't posting any more but I think it's just as popular with those of us non-experts. The newest version from LCD is now called FP+. I still use it in combination with Idemitsu.

 

Yes, I use FP+ as well, particularly in the winter when it's harder for me to drive the car hard.

 

I think FP+ makes a good combo with Idemitsu as well. I think a lot of folks think it is the best additive carbon cleaner. There is a code for 10% discount somewhere for 8 club members.

 

I believe that MMO is mineral oil with small amounts of dye, fragrance, benzine, and naptha. Personally, I don't trust Lucas UCL. It seems too thick and I've read at least one user account here who is convinced that his first engine met an early death due to UCL not mixing well with various premixes that he was experimenting with.

 

Just put my first 6 ounces of MMO and 1 ounce of FP+ in the 8 in about 12.6 gallons of 91. We'll see how it goes.

 

You believe? Product data sheets FTW! And I don't make decisions based on one user account or user accounts period for that matter. Try mixing the UCL with gas and get back to me, it mixes wonderfully. Pennzoil Marine fully synthetic mixes great as well but it is stinky and my catless car is stinky enough as it is. Research is your friend.

 

When using Idemitsu premix, make sure the blue rubber cap seal does not stick to the bottle neck and fall off into the fuel filler. I had this happen to me today, and the cap seal almost went down the filler. I was lucky. The rubber seal is glued to the cap, and normally is almost impossible to peel off, but apparently this cannot be completely trusted.

 

The code to use on the LCD website is: RX8club

Not sure if it's still valid but worth a try.

 

wish that stuff wasn't so expensive. just gonna go with mmo for now. cheap, jax said it works :P

 

Thanks for posting that, but it no longer works. Does anyone have a good relationship with them? Otherwise I could contact them and ask about renewing the discount. I just bought my first gallon.

I use .5 oz of Amsoil Saber Pro per gallon. I am thinking about substiting part of that so I include 1.5 oz of FP Plus in 10 gallons. (That's what they said people use if they want to increase from the std does of FP Plus.) So, for 10 gal of gas I would put in 3.5 oz of Amsoil and 1.5 oz of FP Plus. THoughts? I figure I can substitute because of the lubricating aspect of FP Plus, but my primary goal is lubrication.

 

Any thoughts on this? The box says it is JASO certified. It doesn't say it is synth, but the MSDS refers to esters along with oil.
http://www.rejuvenateyourengine.com/
http://wwwarchive.mercurymarine.com/...Q-16pt_doc.pdf

 

Quicksilver is decent stuff. No product data sheet on that stuff though so i wouldn't use it without seeing it.

 

I have been deterred from buying marine 2cycle oil too many times to think otherwise.
I have heard everything from it "screws up your cat", "gums up sensors" & "exhaust problems"....
I use Idemitsu/Legend/Lucas only and have only used those three for the last 7 years in my previous cars and in my rotary snowmobile.
I'm not sure about the truth to the marine thing, but a couple people strongly advised me. It's hard not to listen to marine mechanics, pilots and engineers.

 

Stick to multi-purpose 2 cycles and do NOT buy marine use only 2 cycle for the RX8. Marine 2cycle oil is designed with lots of environmental additives that won't contaminate lakes or the ground with use. Those additives are not designed to protect your motor.

Stick to any 2cycle that is for air cooled engines or is at least a multi-purpose.