can understand why thats a sore topic for you

but i'm NA and unless I hit the lottery will be staying that way for awhile

 

I took the RX to the Mazda Dealer. I showed them the Dyno. They agreed somthing is wrong. After inspection, I am getting a new engine.

Here is the question. For no extra labor charge, I can have them install a new clutch and lightweight flywheel. This sounds too good to be true. Only rub is I need to get it to them by Monday. Can you guys recommend the best combo cluch/flywheel for the car? Any assistance is welcome. I need to move fast.

 

ACT clutch and Racingbeat flywheel. Check Charles R. Hill and RX7store.net

 

sounds like a nice way to void the warranty on your new engine

 

That sounds like a good result. Be sure to post the "replacement engine" dyno!

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

1. Dyno was done on a DynoDynamics AWD dynometer at Performance Race Engineering in Portland, OR. It was about 65-70 degrees and cloudy, some sprinkles.
2. Car made 191hp, 145tq, uncorreted
3. will post charts once I find a scanner
4. Car has a custom exhaust by PREracing and custom ram intake. Stock airbox, K&N drop-in. Heavy TSW 20" rims (came with car when we bought it). Mobile1 synthetic oil. Everything else is completely stock.

 

Great numbers. I am suprised to see you using synthetic oil. Everyone says this is bad. Post some pics of your custom exhaust and ram intake.

On a personal note, I went with the ACT clutch and 9.8 pound flywheel. Accroding to my dealer, it wont void my warranty. (Especially since they are doing the install)

I should get the car back Tuesday or Wednesday. I will have to do the engine and clutch break in. Boy will it suck to keep it under 4k.

 

I don't pretend to know that much about rotarys but I am curious why people say synthetic oil is bad (other than being more expensive). I check it at every fill-up and change it about every 2,000 miles. I don't have any pictures of the exhaust under the car, but next time it's up in the air I will take some. Same with the ram scoop, I would have to take the bumper off to get pictures of it. Maybe if I decide to change it I will.

at the dyno day


video on the dyno
http://www.youtube.com/v/YEs2Ocp8UiQ&hl=en

 

people say synthetic is bad because they are parroting what Mazda has brainwashed them into believing ....

 

I once used synthetic oil and my car caught on fire and exploded, causing nuclear winter, and the dinosaurs came back to life, and said, "Hey, That's my juice. Give it back". True story.

 

iv'e told you a million times mysql "don't exaggerate!"

 

There's a huge thread on that. Search, read, and make your own decision it's personal preference at the end of the day. I used to use conventional 5-20, now I use synthetic 5-40 and Idemitsu Premix after my engine replacement.

BTW excellent engine dyno.

 

yeah I know, I have recently read all the threads on the topic. I think i might switch to 5-30 but whatev. The 5-20 is doing great and not burning off.

here is the dyno sheet for those who are interested.

 

Well I hit the dyno again yesterday. It's the same one for consistency.

Here's my first dyno.
mods at the time: MS intake, Greddy catback




Here is the dyno from yesterday. (computer enchanced due to a failing ink cartridge)
mods: MS intake, Greddy catback, Cobb AP w/ default MM map, rx7store resonated midpipe



After the first dyno I was pretty sure something was wrong with my cat so I replaced it with the midpipe. Looks like I was right as the torque doesn't drop now like it did before. I suspect it would be a good idea to do a coil upgrade as well but maybe later. Voiding my warranty one part at a time...

 

That looks better. The disconnect is weird though. It's smooth and looks like it's on a different slope below 6K and then the upper part is much more jagged and doesn't seem to match up. Was this two different runs put together?

 

Nope. I didn't look at all the graphs but I was told that it cut like that on each run. I hate that induction pickup stuff. I think the jaggies come from the coils.

How do you guys usually connect the induction clamp to the ignition system? I thought it's usually on the plug wire but this time the guy put it on one of the wires in the harness going into the coil. Is there a most-proper location?

 

The Dynojets usually have inductive pickups that don't work on our cars.
Almost every dyno I've worked on has clipped directly to the coil trigger wire.
Or, better yet, calculated RPM by effective gear ratio like the DynaPack does.

 

IMO it does more than just give out rough curves, I'm convinced that using that type pickup on a Dynojet with an RX-8 gives out inaccurate curves ...

 

OK, went to the dyno yesterday, and I'm pretty pissed about my #'s.

Here's the info:
Mods: K&N Filter, Red line tranny and diff fluid, RP midpipe.
Dynojet dyno, temp about 84 degrees, 43% humidity.



Power: 158.46 TQ: 120.56
Power: 162.42 TQ: 123.24
Power: 159.96 TQ: 122.65

The curves look awful, especially above 6k rpms. I'm assuming it's bad coils.

 

^^^^Change coils, wires, and plugs.

 

I'm on the BHR waiting list.

 

Before I changed the ignition I did three pulls right around 170whp

After doing the mazsport coils, wires, and new plugs my pulls were around 180whp

 

hmm.. what's everyone's obsession with taking the baffles and screens out? i never understood that.

 

What was the condition of your OEM coils, spark plug wires, and spark plugs?

 

snap