TrochoidMagic

and to add to that i don't give a $hit about brand...

as of now, prior to every oil change i will use the dealership kit to clean cylinder heads of carbon build-up, but switch it out and use plain H20.

and see if i can be the first with a rotary to last over 50k on my first motor.

and if i do...will u guys
a)ban me/kick my ***
b)pat me on the back, switch back to conventional oil, spend saved money on other mods

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

maybe you should try to find out whats the differents between SL and SM

I mean I like clear air, I love trees, I hate polutions.

but the laws are getting more stupid everyday.

Synthetic is superior because the base stock are different. the additive are mostly the same (or close)

Like I said long time ago, some people love organic food, some people like *regular* food. Theres scientific proof that rats that eat organic food can live longer than the ones that eat *regular* food. but still, TONS of people said they have regular stuff and can still live till 80. Some ppl hate it just because they cost 3x more than regular.

This never ends, use whatever you want.

but my choice is Full synthetic.

forgot to add, I like SL grade oil more than SM, but thats just me.

TrochoidMagic

thats what i conclude/assume as well. but not all brands will follow that route with % of additives, maybe they will. who knows? all brands formula's are a guarded secret. so the wise choice would be to use them all, right? they all seem to have done something right in their formulation to get that passing grade...no?

well, from whatever we reason we want to believe, we should use whatever we want to use. and in no way did i say i love to pollute...i just find no reason to use 5w20 in california. or even pay an extra for a multi-grade. and i like to state that i don't see using 5w20 to be fit in a rotary...W/O any hard facts! so its just preference. so if my motor blows...i don't have anyone following with blame.

and no...it doesn't seem to end. but its not like i can really get pissed.
when someone states something inaccurate, its corrected immediately. or if its stupid...gets flamed. so at the end of the day, we still learn something.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Mazola FTW ! Its cooking grade food oil. Safe to use for everybody !!!!

rotarygod

Clean your cylinder heads? Good luck with that! Check your muffler bearings while you're at it.

First to go over 50K on a rotary? What the hell are you talking about? I've seen many go over 300K. I had one that went over 150K after the ceramic elements of spark plugs had broken off and gone through the motor. I tore the engine down when I installed a turbo conversion. The engine still ran fine. It was just getting replaced with more power. These engines are damn tough when everything works properly. That's the key.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I think expo has his motor over 110K miles and is his original motor ...

TrochoidMagic

^^ to theabove 2 replies, thats what i meant...i'm glad examples like that are brought up.

i think the reason of this threads constant revival is due to our engine's longevity issue. but my .2 cent is it don't matter what brand you use. as long as you check/change ur oil constantly and not use too thin of a oil, u'll be fine.

TrochoidMagic

so RG, why do we fear? is it because so many early renny motors apparently had problems? and whats with the mazda 5w20 recommendation issue while others use w30 just fine in other country?

that my friend, should be the debate. and it would be nice to get a truthful answer from someone at mazda's R&D.

is there something vitally important to us that we are missing out on?

swoope

iTrader: (5)

correct.

changing the oil is paramount.

beers

swoope

iTrader: (5)

5 w 20 is an epa thing..

mazdas rotarys head guy has made a comment about syn.. it is linked in this tread..

beers

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

5w20 is a *US only thing*.

OMP Programming *was* all the same before the recall (I think), and only US has this recall, and we're the only conuntry that use 5w20 ... That should tell you something.

I have been using 5w30 since 5K miles so Im not that worry, but did my motor received any damage from the stupid thing ? I guess, but not too much I think.

rotarygod

FWIW all Ford vehicles and vehicles associated with Ford as a company in any way at all in the U.S are recommended to use 5W20.

TrochoidMagic

to keep up with the emissions right? all this 5w20 recommendation is just good to them to get a specific # for morning start-up and decreased warm up time. but whats it to us?
NO USE!
even coming to honda's...i have good examples but it'll be too long to get into it. to keep it short, the engine clearances of say a hybrid and a v6 is nowhere similar, yet a w20 is in the mix for both vehicles.

who'd they think i am? a sucker? i know my reasons, and its clear as day when looking throuogh the different service manuals.

i can't suggest anything to anyone, but i hope those listening can get my hint.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

After the EPA told the workers @ 911 that the air was safe to breathe in, do you think I still trust what they're doing ?

So **** their 5w20 bullshit and their whole agency.

Kgriner

Not only will the oil burn, but at what temp...

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

People are just retarded when they say it will not burn as clean cuz Synthetic can withstand higher temp.

@ 1600~2000+ f degrees. I just cant think of what kind of oil can *resist* it.

Nubo

While I've yet to see convincing evidence of any superiority of mineral oils in the rotary, I must point out that I've realized the "way hotter than flash point" argument is probably not sound. Obviously, some oil remains in a liquid state, otherwise the necessary goal of lubrication and sealing would not be achieved. People tend to think in terms of a gas/oil mix being ignited, but really what is happening is that a small amount of oil is SLOWLY dribbled through little holes and spread around by contact. The temperature of the ignited fuel charge may be 2000 degrees, but the temp of the rotor housing, would seem to be well below the flash point. And the oil would be at that temp, clinging to the housing as a boundary layer. And if you calculate the rate of flow required to achieve 3000 miles per quart, you realize that the rate of burnoff of the supplied oil must be very slow indeed. The assertion that the oil "needs to burn" would seem to be practically backwards. It needs to *lubricate*. Burning is the last thing we'd want but unfortunately it eventually happens. Oil and products of oil combustion and carbonization are undoubtedly present in all forms at all times, regardless of which type of oil you use.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Remember, everytime you use Synthetics, god makes a baby gay.

quote by MM

Nubo

Judging by the amount of traffic around here, we could use a lot more gay babies.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

awww ....

bxb40

FYI - good article written by an expert for people that make or deal with motor oils.
It is time that people actually see what real experts have to say before coming up with all kind of "debates."
File size is 1.5Mb due to extensive ads included in the magazine I made the pdf out of (makes it is a free subscription).
Any issues with the article? Feel free to contact the author by e-mail (I assume this is why he included his address there :o) )

rotarygod

I'm still going to use Royal Purple. The "experts" say it works good and so do I.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

An example of most people will only choose what they believe in.

but I believe in hard facts more.

rotarygod

Me too.

tim888tim

Ok I read through this entire thread. It has definitely been established that while Mazda officially recommend that we do not use synthetic oil, it will not damage our engines. The question I saw asked but not really answered; is there a cost-justifiable benefit to using full synthetic oil vs. conventional oil assuming the oil is changed every 3-4K miles?