Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion
#526
Synthetic oil has a higher flashpoint than non-synthetic. That means that oil gunk will build up in your engine, and sooner or later, it'll go bust.
Stick with non-synthetic. I race my car, and non-synthetic works just fine.
Stick with non-synthetic. I race my car, and non-synthetic works just fine.
#528
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
if u're in Vegas, you'll be fine with 10w30
I've been using Full Synthetic oil since 1K miles. RP starting at maybe 8K. Now Im 37K still running super strong. go figure.
and your great source of the greater source can go suck it :P I want to put a bottle of synthetic oil into his mouth.
I've been using Full Synthetic oil since 1K miles. RP starting at maybe 8K. Now Im 37K still running super strong. go figure.
and your great source of the greater source can go suck it :P I want to put a bottle of synthetic oil into his mouth.
#529
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
but, tell me, WHICH oil can withstand the heat inside the combustion chambers ?
Tell me, Please tell me.
Highest Flash point of Synthetic oil is what? the lowest oil 5w20 grade is 420. and inside combustion chambers? over 1600 ?
Which OIL can resist that temp? tell me.
when someone said something is true, it is not always true.
Go do your research, thats what I did, Library has good info about it.
they're just too stubborn in technology. Let them be. Im ok with Synthetic. Lets just wait and see how long my engine last WoooooooOOO !
Last edited by nycgps; 01-02-2008 at 08:09 AM.
#530
07 6M Black
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Apopka, Fl
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Love synthetic fluids. But I am currently using conventional 5w-30 Valvoline(with primix). I plan on changing oil about every 2.5k. Overkill but a lot of oil stays behind after every change. Even with jacking the driver side up.
Currious about combustion chamber temps. I know the exhaust ports get hot. But is that 1600 degrees more or less uniform? Not all the gas is burned. So wouldnt some of the oil see much lower chamber temps. Or is the incomplete combustion of gas due more to the ineffecient combution chamber shape, etc.
Not trying to be argumentative. Just curious what is really going on in the combusion chamber.
Currious about combustion chamber temps. I know the exhaust ports get hot. But is that 1600 degrees more or less uniform? Not all the gas is burned. So wouldnt some of the oil see much lower chamber temps. Or is the incomplete combustion of gas due more to the ineffecient combution chamber shape, etc.
Not trying to be argumentative. Just curious what is really going on in the combusion chamber.
#531
Registered
Synthetic actually burns cleaner so saying it'll leave gunk inside the engine is flat wrong. This is a very common misconception. There is nothing that conventional oil can do that synthetics can't do better. Keep in mind this doesn't mean that each type can't meet the requirements of the engine.
#532
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
Hi guys! I'm new to this RP stuff. I went to wallmart only to find 10W-30, Will my baby be ok if I use this oil weight? Thats all I could find there.
I have a request, Can the guys that have are using RP post how long you have been using RP and what weight?
Also, I was told my a great source who asked and was told by a greater source that synthetic oil dont cool like conventional oil and in time your engine will go, Is that true? I have 57K and I'm on my 2nd engine. I just want to do all the right things to keep my baby running happy
Thanks a million,
-Gil
I have a request, Can the guys that have are using RP post how long you have been using RP and what weight?
Also, I was told my a great source who asked and was told by a greater source that synthetic oil dont cool like conventional oil and in time your engine will go, Is that true? I have 57K and I'm on my 2nd engine. I just want to do all the right things to keep my baby running happy
Thanks a million,
-Gil
fking search you damn newb... tard....
really the answers are funny enough in this thread, and that is what the tread is about... i ran 5 w 30 rp in my first motor. was good stuff..
if you want to know where to get rp in bulk at a very good price shoot me a pm..
beers
#540
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
and now Im 37K miles
Does that answer your question ?
Oh also, you have to stop believing in bullshit. Using Synthetic oil aint no *gambling*. Is good. At least for me.
The Synthetic oil problem was LONG GONE 30+ years ago.
You can use whatever you want of course, Group II-V oil, but the thing is that many people still, to this date, dunno what kind of problems they had back in 30+ years ago. many of them just got the info from *a friend of a friend of a friend of a friend of a friend of a friend of a tech* that Synthetic oil is no good for rotary.
You get the idea.
Last edited by nycgps; 01-04-2008 at 10:23 AM.
#541
2005 Ti Gray RX-8 - SOLD
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A statement like that leads me to believe you haven't read much of this extensively verbose thread; I (we) advise doing so. BTW, been running syn (Penzoil Platinum was my choice) since 30K when I got the car, and I just turned 50K over the weekend.
#542
Registered
Brillo has way more than that on RP with no issues. His engine has even been compression tested and found to be very nice.
#549
is adjusting valve lash
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: hollywooood!
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
use what you want. you should be able to switch back and forth...depending when you feel more rich to use synthetics. "I" just wouldn't use 5w20. just my preference... 5w20 usage for fuel economy can kiss my As#.
#550
is adjusting valve lash
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: hollywooood!
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
why is there still an argument on synthetic/petrol based oils?
NO oil is the same 30 years ago! how's that for anyone wondering?
it seems many people here likes RP, including RB. i'm neither for/against synthetics. there's no downfall in choice if oil change is consistent.
the rumor that i've learned/know with synthetics was: in high mileage cars, sudden switch from petrol to synthetic can wash away build-up around the seals(or an example of the like)leading to leaks. and like someone said, its for some crap seals mazda had refined i'm sure. BUT, who drives around with seals that are worn and needs replacing?(me) this is exactly like the catch22 thing with brake flush and sinking pedal on high mileage cars. but for cars w/o abs, there actually was a cure/trick...switching to any silicone based DOT5.
it really doesn't matter wtf u use. simply put, DO use w20/w30 with API SM or higher. there are NO magic oil out there. and if there was one, everyone including my mom who doesn't drive will be using that stuff. so please, don't try to be "persuasive" on any given product. thats your choice. there are no best oil.
and it seems like everyone lies...including manufacturers. its said that synthetics 5w20 are better for morning start-ups... not the other way around. and actually think about this one here...w/o the synthetic being added for sake of argument... 5w20=lighter oil, hmmm... you know the answer to this. but thats about it, its just purely for emissions reasons. it requires less crank-force and warm up time is fast. quicker for the ecu to go in closed-loop.
i'm just a regular guy. i currently use valvoline and may continue to do so for its convenience and grade availability, but thats it. but i'm not a loyalist. on that note...i may use RP when i feel like using synthetic. just as long as its SM grade or higher.
NO oil is the same 30 years ago! how's that for anyone wondering?
it seems many people here likes RP, including RB. i'm neither for/against synthetics. there's no downfall in choice if oil change is consistent.
the rumor that i've learned/know with synthetics was: in high mileage cars, sudden switch from petrol to synthetic can wash away build-up around the seals(or an example of the like)leading to leaks. and like someone said, its for some crap seals mazda had refined i'm sure. BUT, who drives around with seals that are worn and needs replacing?(me) this is exactly like the catch22 thing with brake flush and sinking pedal on high mileage cars. but for cars w/o abs, there actually was a cure/trick...switching to any silicone based DOT5.
it really doesn't matter wtf u use. simply put, DO use w20/w30 with API SM or higher. there are NO magic oil out there. and if there was one, everyone including my mom who doesn't drive will be using that stuff. so please, don't try to be "persuasive" on any given product. thats your choice. there are no best oil.
and it seems like everyone lies...including manufacturers. its said that synthetics 5w20 are better for morning start-ups... not the other way around. and actually think about this one here...w/o the synthetic being added for sake of argument... 5w20=lighter oil, hmmm... you know the answer to this. but thats about it, its just purely for emissions reasons. it requires less crank-force and warm up time is fast. quicker for the ecu to go in closed-loop.
i'm just a regular guy. i currently use valvoline and may continue to do so for its convenience and grade availability, but thats it. but i'm not a loyalist. on that note...i may use RP when i feel like using synthetic. just as long as its SM grade or higher.