StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Don't use ANY engine flush crap in an '8!

One more time - Do Not Use!

Only half the oil comes out with an oil change, so half your flush will circulate instead of oil.

If you "need" a flush, use oil, then change it sooner.

S

bsteimel

iTrader: (5)

Thank you very much can't get much clearer then that.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Or you can completely drain the oil lines including the ones in the oil cooler, that should get 95% of the oil out.

but ahh, most of us are too lazy for that and drain plug should be more than enough.

ASH8

Sorry, RG was alerted to this info....what do you think

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forum...125#post305125



Timrxmotors
"I used royal purple in my 12A,10w40,then stripped the engine after 2000 miles.The wear was horrendous,all the bearings were ruined,the what were new oil control rings were worn out,everything was worn excessively,it seems the oil gave very little protection.The engine looked like it had done 100,000 miles,not 2000.
The 'o' rings in the outer oil control rings had been affected by the oil and had broken up into pieces.
I sent the oil off for analysis and was horrified by the very low amount of wear additives in the oil,it appears to be cheap nasty oil.I have sent another sample of unused oil for analysis to confirm the lack of wear additives,and will have the results soon.
I have stripped my engine many times for various reasons,I've never had to replace the bearings before,and never seen so much wear before.
Now I use what I have always used in this engine,Total Quartz 7000,which is a semi-synthetic,10w40,and everything is fine.10.9 at 136mph is enough proof of that.
Anyone else stripped their engine after using royal purple?"

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Forgive me but I find that this is a little difficult to believe.
If he tore the engine down on a 10 second rotary and found this then he would have dang well had some sx's causing the need for the tear down------ and he may have. Just not mentioned.
I have heard that synthetics are not compatable with the older model rotary seals. But no problem with the newer ones.
I wonder he could explain more about the"wear additives" he speaks off.
olddragger

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

he had a problem, but to blame something that severe on one particular brand strikes me as hogwash too

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Good Luck been there, tried that.....didnt get even close to that out....and it is a PIA.....

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I'll never understand what turns people into oil *****

rotarygod

I've torn down an engine that used RP. It looked great inside. There is something going on with that guys engine that has nothing to do with Royal Purple. I see that it's in a drag car. How many times have you been to a drag strip and seen people running their mega hyper ultra fast cars with no air filter? I've seen it far too many times. Imagine how much junk gets into the engine this way. Sand, dirt, midgets, anything small enough will get ingested. It doesn't take much to cause huge problems. One time running through a dust cloud will kill an engine. If any of this gets in the engine, it will wear on all surfaces. It will also get under the oil control rings and into the oil system. Notice he says it killed the outer oil control rings, not the inner. Where would ingested debris go first? The outer rings. Debris takes everything in an engine out, not just a few little seals. It's very important. It sounds like this engine ran without an air filter. We definitely aren't hearing the whole story on this one. Open your hood sometime and see how much dirt, sand, etc gets in there. Without an air filter it gets in the engine too. Ever wonder how your engine would run if all the dirty black stuff on a dirty air filter had actually gone in the engine? If there is enough debris getting in the engine to kill all the seals and work it's way into the oil, it will probably also affect the results of an oil analysis test. It will dilute the results.

This guys issue really doesn't sound all that surprising to me. What is surprising is that he is blaming it on his oil. I guarantee the oil isn't a problem. If he isn't ingesting foreign material into his engine, then he's got some serious clearance issues from a botched rebuild. This guy really needs to step away from cars and take up a hobby more forgiving to mistakes like basket weaving.

Philip_SA

RG

I took my 8 to the Royal Purple importer in South Africa and they changed my Diff oil to MAXGEAR From Roayal Purple, and also the transmission to the (Synchromax) noy the Synchromax exactly, actually the one the same but racing transmission one, said to be more expensive but i got it at the same price. I drove now about 100km and yes the gear changes does feel better, but is it the right one to use, or rather the normal Synchromax.

I am going to do my engine oil on monday, I just didnt have a new oil filter with me to change, how are you doing it, i wont be able to get all the old oil out, did you just fir new filter, drain all you can and then fill up, and then just keep filling up with the Royal Purple, until it actually is nearly 100% Royal Purple. How often do you change then.
I do about 6000miles in two months, I was thinking of changing the oil every 12500 - 15000miles and the oil filter every 4000 - 5000miles.

How does that sound

Philip

pm me if any other idees

Thanks

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

has anyone heard anything about the moly content in royal purple? trying to learn here.
olddragger

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Brand new ? or used after certain miles ?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

brand new. limited reading i have done suggest that RP has a lot of moly in it. Others dont. Whether that is good or bad--at this point --i dont know. Moly can be bad in some cases.
olddragger

rotarygod

I don't think there's much more than any other good oil. Idemitsu stands out as having abnormally high amounts of it at well over 1000 ppm. Moly is a compound that may have a tendency to fall out of suspension over time. Moly is a good thing to have when it comes to friction reduction but too much of it isn't necessarily better.

carampsonline

intresting

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

it doesnt like copper
The moly in RP is too small to stop up a filter --i believe it is only 1-2 microns in size,
it can give problems according to just my readings on certain valve trains etc---but we dont have to worry about that now do we!
olddragger

Chamberlin

iTrader: (1)

Well, some of you may remember that I was going to start using the new Penzoil Platinum full synthetic in my '05 Rx-8, and to date I have about 4 thousand miles on the first change out to 10-W30 Platinum, plus some top-offs along the way...so there still is likely quite a bit of original dino oil mixed in. This morning though, I was shocked to see a ton of gelatinous goo, kinda tan/petroleum jelly like on the dip stick , all the way up to the rubber stopper. On the bottom of the dipstick, was more tan goo mixed in with nearly black oil...looked like a nasty Black-and-Tan. I dipped in again and kept pulling up this crap... Also, it looked there were fine water droplets on the dipstick as well...that can't be good. Aside from my recent gas mileage going to ****, like 15-16 mpg from 18-19 mpg (I do have Rx-7 FD wheels and tires on the back right now, although I haven't done the speedo conversions, but I would think the FD wheels are smaller in OD? making the gas mileage artificially go up if anything? I guess that depends where the speedo gets it's data from...front wheels, transmission etc.)

Anyways, what are your thoughts on what this sludge could be? The car doesn't seem like it is down on power (any more than usual and there is no starting problems, its never been flooded, and I warm it up every morning (not that it is super cold here). I will get pics this weekend, as I had planned on an oil change...
I guess I might have to go back to Dino, or a different Syn, or maybe there's an unrelated issue with engine? Thanks for your input guys.

-C

swoope

iTrader: (5)

everything is fine...

it is moisture condensing in the oil. there are a lot of threads about it... get motor up to full operating temp on a good long drive, problem solved...

the rim size means nothing. it is the dia of the tire that controls the speedo and odo... the stock tire is 25.9"

beers

Chamberlin

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Swoope - sorry to jump to the conclusion that it was the Syn causing the problem... I will start some thread research on it tonight...

Oh, definately understand about the overall diameter being the key, not just the FD's 16" wheel size....I should have said wheel/tire combo!

Phew, for now thanks.

-C

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Just to add an "interesting" data point:

I've been nailing down some of the details about my custom turbo setup that I didn't like. One of those was to replace the oil drain with one constructed with AN fittings.

Knowing that I was probably going to be leaking and would have to drain the oil a couple of times, I used the cheapest 5w-30 I could get my hands on, knowing I'd never drive the car under load with it in there.
What I actually used was Penzoil. It was on sale for $1.89 a quart at Autozone.
I had been installing the pipe, filling with oil, and then running the car until it leaked - this meant a few minutes at an elevated RPM on the driveway.
I'd then drain it immediately (to keep the mess down) and transfer the oil.
What I found was that it turned to a completely watery consistency when it was at full temperature!
The first two times that I drained the pan while the oil was scalding hot and transferred the oil from the catch pan to a disposal bottle, it poured out with the viscosity of warm Dr. Pepper. It didn't cling or have that "stringy" texture that oil usually has - it was actually "drippy".
This was the first time that I had done this (usually, the oil has cooled in the catch pan for quite a while before I dump it) and I was surprised enough to repeat the next fill with with the good stuff - Royal Purple 5w-30. A $30 experiment.

As before, I brought the engine up to temperature at idle and then held the RPMs at 4200 for a few minutes while I waited for the EGT to climb up to ~1000°F.
The RP looked like cold oil when I transferred it.

Totally unscientific? Probably. Disturbing? Definitely.

bxb40

In conclusion, you established that 5W-20 is lighter than 5W-30... When was it a question? As 30 is larger than 20, it is supposed to be like this... nothing to do with the RP or whatever... All brands need to comply with the same requirement in order to be of a certain quality.
What I hope people understand from your post is that winter is the time for 5W-30, and summer is good for 10W-40. A poor quality 5W-20 should not come even close to a rotary engine (as in several hundred miles, it will become 5W-10...). At least a cheap 5W-30 will become a 5W-20, which is recommended.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Sorry! Mistype. I corrected that.
The cheap oil was 5w-30 also - that is all I use. If RP made a 5w-40 like Mobil does, I'd use that.
To reiterate - the cheap stuff was only in the engine for a couple of hours at most.

I'm in Phoenix, so it is always summer here - no real need to run a winter viscosity since the car seldom operates in ambient temps below 65°F.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Like I been saying for a while --with the 5-20 the engine cannot even mantain the factory recommended oil pressure at 3K. Factory says approx 52 with the oil at 212F. I measured 48 when the oil was at 190. Even the local dealership doesnt put 5w/20 in anymore.
olddragger

Philip_SA

Hi All

So what is then really the best for Synthetic 5W20, 5W30 or 10W40.

For a alrounder, with no snowing in winter.

It looks to be 5W30, correct?

Philip

rotarygod

You'd be good with that.