BigBadChris and the little turbo RX8
#326
Do I know for certain that a rotor housing is safe to reuse? Nope. Not at all. Did I say I did? Did I say I was a rotary expert? Nope. Not at all. The only thing that I can do is take the advice that other people, more knowledgeable people, give me. Ari Yallon has built enough motors to know the difference, and I trust his judgement.
The motor had 31846 miles on it before it was torn down. Yes, some things wore out and lost compression. But not all of it. I know you aren't suggesting that I just buy a completely new motor?
#327
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
I'm not saying they cause them to grenade but they sure as hell are not preventing them from grenading. But like I said, there is a lot that goes into an engine rebuild besides seal choice and even the best built engine isn't worth a **** if it isn't tuned right. I have hit 13psi many times, I don't imagine another 2psi would would make a difference but I'm done experimenting so 10 is my limit so I have to back it down when it gets colder to stay there,
The tune is only one part of the equation as is the setup . I have come to learn that unexpected occurances that result in only minor variations to your original tune can be the difference between zoom and boom !
To think otherwise ignores the fact that no-one has yet managed to make 400whp reliable, a realistic target .
Last edited by Brettus; 10-12-2015 at 05:10 PM.
#330
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Always nice to hear someone's honest opinion.
Do I know for certain that a rotor housing is safe to reuse? Nope. Not at all. Did I say I did? Did I say I was a rotary expert? Nope. Not at all. The only thing that I can do is take the advice that other people, more knowledgeable people, give me. Ari Yallon has built enough motors to know the difference, and I trust his judgement.
The motor had 31846 miles on it before it was torn down. Yes, some things wore out and lost compression. But not all of it. I know you aren't suggesting that I just buy a completely new motor?
Do I know for certain that a rotor housing is safe to reuse? Nope. Not at all. Did I say I did? Did I say I was a rotary expert? Nope. Not at all. The only thing that I can do is take the advice that other people, more knowledgeable people, give me. Ari Yallon has built enough motors to know the difference, and I trust his judgement.
The motor had 31846 miles on it before it was torn down. Yes, some things wore out and lost compression. But not all of it. I know you aren't suggesting that I just buy a completely new motor?
#331
I will not be using ceramic apex seals. We do plan to send it out for balancing. Not everything that is being done will be done by Ari. He has a network of friends in the rotary industry, and things get moved around as needed. Side housings (irons) will be brand new, as will the rotating assembly and gears.
#332
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Should be fine, the more new the better IMO. Is he bumping up the oil pressure at all? Where are you getting your turbo oil feed from? I would also consider getting a new SSV (it was updated with a better actuator) when you install the 6 port LIM and also get the injectors tested and cleaned if you are using used ones. Also a used LIM will have a **** ton of gunk on it and the APV's and such so ask if cleaning all that is included. I have seen a ton of remans get old nasty **** slapped back on a clean keg.
#334
Should be fine, the more new the better IMO. Is he bumping up the oil pressure at all? Where are you getting your turbo oil feed from? I would also consider getting a new SSV (it was updated with a better actuator) when you install the 6 port LIM and also get the injectors tested and cleaned if you are using used ones. Also a used LIM will have a **** ton of gunk on it and the APV's and such so ask if cleaning all that is included. I have seen a ton of remans get old nasty **** slapped back on a clean keg.
Edit: found the TSB for the updated SSV, and the updated part numbers. Thanks to 9k for the tip, and Jon316G and ASH8 for their post about replacement.
Last edited by BigBadChris; 10-12-2015 at 09:11 PM.
#336
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
I'm not agreeing with you 100% here ............... as you know mass airflow at say 5000 is not the same as mass airflow at 8000 .............and how much airflow there is depends on how much boost you apply .
How much boost there is does come back to how restrictive the system as a whole is (as you mentioned) but for the purposes of determining what is a dangerous level and what isn't (between similar setups) boost IS more relevant as a reference point than mass airflow !
Especially considering that MAF relies on a sensor that is notoriously difficult to calibrate accurately.
#338
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
The Cryo seals my buddy got from Atkins. He made the mistake of not checking them prior to installation and the engine wouldn't idle, pulled it part again and found this. Atkins was shitty about replacing them too even though he has bought a **** ton of stuff from them.
#339
B.I.G
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All of these horror stories I hear with aftermarket apex seals... I am running goopy seals, but only 6k miles on it so until the next rebuild I wont know how they handle 10 psi of goodness.
#340
XPost from Williard's build
Whats going on with my 8?
The engine is apart. The chassis has been pushed down the block into a rented storage unit. It pains me to say this, but the six port six speed swap is just not going to happen. The cost of a donor car, the amount of wiring that had to be replaced just made it cost prohibitive.
As such, we are moving forward with the four port rebuild. Ari is still on my case to do a manual swap, but until I can be assured that traction control will work, and it will pass inspection, I am not convinced.
The side housings have been sent off for lapping and refinishing. All of the internal parts are in stock, so we are ready to go on that front. There is some other repair and upgrade work yet to be done, but nothing in comparison to the rebuild.
Its a bummer, I wont lie to you. But whats important is getting the car back on the road. I love my Mazda6, but its too long, too slow, and the steering is anemic
Whats going on with my 8?
The engine is apart. The chassis has been pushed down the block into a rented storage unit. It pains me to say this, but the six port six speed swap is just not going to happen. The cost of a donor car, the amount of wiring that had to be replaced just made it cost prohibitive.
As such, we are moving forward with the four port rebuild. Ari is still on my case to do a manual swap, but until I can be assured that traction control will work, and it will pass inspection, I am not convinced.
The side housings have been sent off for lapping and refinishing. All of the internal parts are in stock, so we are ready to go on that front. There is some other repair and upgrade work yet to be done, but nothing in comparison to the rebuild.
Its a bummer, I wont lie to you. But whats important is getting the car back on the road. I love my Mazda6, but its too long, too slow, and the steering is anemic
#341
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
You use the engine harness that comes with your 6MT donor motor.
You leave the interior harness intact and simply ziptie the ignition interlock open.
Get a paired ECU and ABS electronics module (you don't need the full assembly).
Pay your dealer $200 to pair the immobilzer.
And then all the other stuff "standard" stuff.... Pedals, master cylinder, clutch line set, etc, etc, etc.
You'll pass all but California emissions.
You leave the interior harness intact and simply ziptie the ignition interlock open.
Get a paired ECU and ABS electronics module (you don't need the full assembly).
Pay your dealer $200 to pair the immobilzer.
And then all the other stuff "standard" stuff.... Pedals, master cylinder, clutch line set, etc, etc, etc.
You'll pass all but California emissions.
#343
Driving my unreliable rx8
I'm playing in the sand on the other side of the world right now, but I'll be back early December or mid jan. I haven't decided yet. I'm leaning toward early dec.
#346
#347
Driving my unreliable rx8
I'm with love I've been known to turn it off but everyday driving it's useful.
There's not much need to turn it off unless your drag racing anyway. Or have tons of power and then it's helpful unless you just want to act a fool.
There's not much need to turn it off unless your drag racing anyway. Or have tons of power and then it's helpful unless you just want to act a fool.
#348
SPOOLN8
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Don't get me wrong I still leave the DSC on, just not T/C, traction is easy enough to control with throttle position. I guess winter driving your whole life helps prepare you more for not having traction too
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 11-04-2015 at 09:04 AM.