Uh, what?

Direct copy form the owner's manual(2008)
[5-23]
NOTE[5-26]
Press the DSC OFF switch to turn off the
TCS/DSC. The DSC OFF indicator light
will illuminate.
Press the switch again to turn the TCS/
DSC back on. The DSC OFF indicator
light will go out.

NOTE

• When DSC is on and you attempt to free the vehicle when it is stuck, or drive it out of freshly fallen snow, the TCS (part of the DSC system) will activate. Depressing the accelerator will not increase engine power and freeing the vehicle may be difficult. When this happens, turn off the TCS/DSC.
• If the TCS/DSC is off when the engine is turned off, it automatically activates when the ignition switch is turned on.
• Leaving the TCS/DSC on will provide the best stability. When the TCS/DSC is off, the TCS/DSC does not activate but the brake LSD (Limited Slip Differentials) function remains.
• If the DSC OFF switch is pressed and held for a second or more, the TCS/DSC system may become inoperative due to the system detecting switch trouble. If the TCS/DSC system becomes inoperative, the TCS/DSC and the DSC OFF indicator lights illuminate simultaneously. In this case, turn off the engine and restart it to restore the TCS/DSC.

 

If you push the button it turns off T/C.... if you hold it down for like 10seconds it turns off DSC.... give it a try

 

Please reread what I posted, it is a direct copy from the owner's manual. What you are saying is a pretty common myth that won't go away.

Also, sorry BigBadChris for the thread hijack.

 

If you just press it it doesn't pull power and will let you get noticbly loose, but the system will still kick in keeping you from spinning out. Try holding it down for 7 sec and it won't stop you. Burn out and drift all day long until you find a good tree/fire hydrant/wall or whatever else you slide into.

 

That may happen, but it's because the car's computer thinks that there is something wrong with the button and doesn't know what to do. Again straight from the owner's manual:
"If the DSC OFF switch is pressed and held for a second or more, the TCS/DSC system may become inoperative due to the system detecting switch trouble. If the TCS/DSC system becomes inoperative, the TCS/DSC and the DSC OFF indicator lights illuminate simultaneously. In this case, turn off the engine and restart it to restore the TCS/DSC."

 

When you hold the button down, it turns all that stuff off until you hit the brakes. Try doing a brake stand somewhere (No I don't do this all the time but I've done it at the drag strip). If you hold the button down you can do one, but if you don't you engine will cut power.

 

I read and realize what it says. I'll also note that both lights do not come on unless it is held down into fault mode which tends to say that they are both not off until this is done.

On top of that read through the dyno threads. You will not get a good reliable dyno pull with a single press it is recommended to at least hold.it. but even higher recommendation is to remove the room fuse just in case it is still active or you restart the car.

 

Why am I so set on it? Because it could keep me from destroying the car. Its a pretty smart system, lots of sensors. Why put all of this money in the car (which I cannot recover if I total it out), and then disable a computer system designed to help prevent an accident? I would feel pretty stupid if I totalled the car because I went sideways into a tree, just so I could drive a stick shift.

 

I prefer TSC myself. I learned to appreciate it one morning crossing an old wood covered bridge during a rainstorm.

Something about water, wood, and rubber.... doesn't do well for traction. The rear slipped out and if not for TSC I would've fishtailed into the wall of the bridge and possibly spun thru it.

 

Your thinking is sound, but if you have any driving skill it will constantly be getting in your way with the increase in power you are building toward.

If you don't have the driving skill, I agree you should leave it on. (Turning it on in bad/wet weather ain't bad either.)
Then spend money on HPDE's and get instruction and get the skills not to crash.
Those skills will benefit you even when you have to drive your gf's shitty little Camry.

 

I will be the first to admit that I dont have the skills. Every other car I owned has been a 4 cylinder econobox. The HPDE is definitely on the to do list. I was hoping to start this fall, but without the car, its looking like springtime. As for the GF, somehow she ended up driving my 2014 Mazda6, and I drive the RX8. Women, they work in mysterious ways....

 

^^ +1 I always leave it on in shitty weather on the highway, but around the city I've never found any situation where I thought it was necessary. We're not driving torque monsters around even with a quick spooling turbo.... which this build does not have....

My opinion: I'd way rather have the stick shift than traction control. But it's not my build, just wanted to make the point that many people find the TCS a hindrance when going FI and it wouldnt be a deal breaker for me.

Either way, good luck with the rebuild!

 

Thanks, Machine.

 

Part for sale, please ignore

 

And there's always next time! You'll just have to continue to endure the occasional razz from us when we refer to your autotragic setup

 

I honestly think a 5 speed 4 port swap can be done. You have to locate the correct ECU, the correct ABS box, and the correct wiring harness, but otherwise I dont know for sure.

In the nicest way, your experience wasnt so smooth, so I decided to back off. I know you had tuning complications, wiring complications, and a relatively rare ECU. (not to rag on you).

 

Yeah, the 5 speed swap is only "easy" if you get a complete JDM motor, transmission and ECU. The ECU and ABS issue can likely be addressed by your dealer... but it'll likely take a very knowledgable mazda tech to do the work. I think most will just scratch their head when they see the JDM ECU report in.

You can keep your 4AT ECU and harness though.... all you have to do is suppress the U0101 (TCM communication error) CEL. You'll pass inspection no problem and DSC/TSC will continue to work fine. That's what McKennaR did.

The 4AT to 6MT conversion was actually easy. It was everything else that got in the way.

 

I was under the impression that McKennaR never got TSC to work properly?

 

Hmm... I'll have to find his thread. I know I had DSC/TSC issues until I got the 6MT ECU in but I thought he was good to go... I sold him my Cobb and stepped him thru suppressing the TCM CEL.

 

Update time

So, what happened to my car?

Basically, I needed an entirely new motor. The back housing was lapped, and was out of spec. The back of the center housing was lapped....and was out of spec. The front housing was good....except it had a big crack through the motor mount on the passenger side.

Three trashed housings. I gave in to temptation, and decided that I needed to go six port. New six port housings and stationary gears have been ordered. I just completed a large eBay order, all the parts I think I need to do the swap. Ari also has a donor car, so the ECU and ABS computers will match. He did not plan on pulling that motor (it is ruined), so I decided to buy donor parts rather than pay someone to strip a car. I will be sourcing the driveshaft and transmission from the donor car, as well as things I may have left off my eBay order.

The only thing that is still up in the air is the transmission (JDM 5 speed or USDM 6 speed) and the fuel delivery. I am tempted by the KG parts rails and a return fuel system. I know its overkill, I know that very few members have done it successfully. but it is worth looking into. A 1:1 fuel pressure regulator just makes sense.

Also did some googling based on some other threads that have been updated lately, and found a "turbo oill pressure regulator". Not as elaborate as 9k's DIY job, but interesting none the less. It is sold by a little shop calling themselves Freelance Motorsports. For 125 bucks, it might be worth the peace of mind to keep the turbo happy.

I plan on repurposing the ACS twin cool to take the heat off the turbo water, and then return it to the system. I dont think transmission or differential fluid is worth the effort, I will not be doing auto X or pushing the car to its limits.

Work continues on the Sohn adapter, it is in Ari's court to modify the turbo intake piping to make room for the sandwich plate.

More to come this week

 

Let me know how you make out with the sohn.

As I said I've been toying with an OMP off and on. Soon I'll have time to focus solely on it to make it work. A buddy said he may have it figured out but like I said he's always busy and this is a back burner kind of thing.

Are you going to run the IC piping inside instead of through the wheel wells? Eventually I will do this, just have to figure out how to route em.

Will you make up your mind? 6 port or 4 port, pick one.
JDM 5spd is much stronger honestly.

Link for the turbo oil reg?

Do you have gmail chats? Aka hangouts?

Travis

 

The Freelance piece is not a regulator, just an adjustable restrictor of sorts.

 

Travis, here ya go

Turbo Oil Regulator - Freelance Motorsports LLC

9k, isn't an adjustable restirctor better than a dumb restrictor?

 

Thanks chris.

Travis

 

Man ..... your saga is beginning to take on epic proportions !