BigBadChris and the little turbo RX8
Engine has been torn down. Ari said he had never seen an engine like this before. Front rotor was in good shape, just a lot of carbon on the rotor itself. The back rotor was not so good. The oil control rings were worn very heavily, and the side housings were etched from wear. Ari said the rear rotor looked much much worse than 30k miles. I asked about oil injectors, he said that wasn't the issue. Likewise the oil squirter inside the e shaft. The oil pan (with less than 10 miles on both it and the oil!) and the oil were filthy with carbon. Black stains everywhere. I am not sure what would cause that.
He is hesitant to immediately rebuild, as we need to be certain that we know what caused the accelerated wear. I can appreciate his caution, I would hate to build a new motor and be right back in this spot.
The six port vs four port debate continues, likewise the auto vs manual. Ari says he can do the work, but has several questions and concerns. He is of the mind that a four port will respond better to turbocharging, given the longer power stroke. He is also quick to point out that when Mazda introduced the turbo 2, there was a high power turbo four port, and a low power NA six port. Likewise, the 20b is only two intakes per rotor. I cannot argue with those points. Instead I look to the number of successful turbo six ports, and the power numbers they produce.
I will be honest, I have many questions and very few answers. I will continue to research the six port swap, and try to track down the needed parts from local junkyards. I cannot say that I am pleased, considering I started this project the day after Memorial Day, and it is now the middle of October. I am beginning to question if I have the resolve to continue this project. I will of course lose a ton of money, since used turbo kits don't exactly hold their value. Likewise, my engine is currently in twenty pieces, so I am several thousand dollars away from a running and driving car.
Time to dig deep and think the long thoughts.
He is hesitant to immediately rebuild, as we need to be certain that we know what caused the accelerated wear. I can appreciate his caution, I would hate to build a new motor and be right back in this spot.
The six port vs four port debate continues, likewise the auto vs manual. Ari says he can do the work, but has several questions and concerns. He is of the mind that a four port will respond better to turbocharging, given the longer power stroke. He is also quick to point out that when Mazda introduced the turbo 2, there was a high power turbo four port, and a low power NA six port. Likewise, the 20b is only two intakes per rotor. I cannot argue with those points. Instead I look to the number of successful turbo six ports, and the power numbers they produce.
I will be honest, I have many questions and very few answers. I will continue to research the six port swap, and try to track down the needed parts from local junkyards. I cannot say that I am pleased, considering I started this project the day after Memorial Day, and it is now the middle of October. I am beginning to question if I have the resolve to continue this project. I will of course lose a ton of money, since used turbo kits don't exactly hold their value. Likewise, my engine is currently in twenty pieces, so I am several thousand dollars away from a running and driving car.
Time to dig deep and think the long thoughts.
That said, this is a colossal waste of money, but I can't talk as I am on my 4th renesis and daily a 2010 S4.
i say just do the 6MT conversion and hold off on the turbo. You'll net 75WHP right out of the gate which is about the same place a GReddy would get you on a 4 port anyway.
I agree, I was pretty happy with a strong 6 port. Though after boost and the S4, I doubt that will remain true. We shall find out in a week or so.
Thanks for the advice, guys.
Unfortunately the turbo is already done, new charge piping, whole nine yards. I would hate to go back to stock now.
I figure the parts I need will cost 1500 dollars, including transmission. I can't pass that up.
200, I will check your posting
Unfortunately the turbo is already done, new charge piping, whole nine yards. I would hate to go back to stock now.
I figure the parts I need will cost 1500 dollars, including transmission. I can't pass that up.
200, I will check your posting
Thanks for the advice, guys.
Unfortunately the turbo is already done, new charge piping, whole nine yards. I would hate to go back to stock now.
I figure the parts I need will cost 1500 dollars, including transmission. I can't pass that up.
200, I will check your posting
Unfortunately the turbo is already done, new charge piping, whole nine yards. I would hate to go back to stock now.
I figure the parts I need will cost 1500 dollars, including transmission. I can't pass that up.
200, I will check your posting
Don't need to get the flash. Have located ECU and ABS brain box and immobilizer from the same six port six speed car. And Ari has a Mazda IDS computer. So we can reprogram keys
No I was using a 2005 4 port. That is now in pieces. Ari has brand new six port side housings, and we will retain my rotors, rotor housings and engine accessories. We will replace all seals, use some competition bearings, balance, and do some street porting. I have suggested the RB templates, Ari would prefer to freehand. After that, Steve Kan will work some computer magic.
No I was using a 2005 4 port. That is now in pieces. Ari has brand new six port side housings, and we will retain my rotors, rotor housings and engine accessories. We will replace all seals, use some competition bearings, balance, and do some street porting. I have suggested the RB templates, Ari would prefer to freehand. After that, Steve Kan will work some computer magic.
Also there is a minimal amount of material that can be removed from the 4 port, mainly just smoothing out the edges. Most port work with noticeable gains is done to the APV's in the 6 port.
Again I highly advise you to use a 6 port engine, the wiring will be easier as well. If you run the manual trans ECU. The tuner (steve) will need to spend a considerable amount of time making everything work.
Ari is great with RX7's he has minimal experience with RX8's. Several people now have told you to run the 6port. Do the 6 port.
Good afternoon, Shady crew.
Perhaps I am not being clear. It is my intention to build a six port motor. I will use my rotors, rotor housings and accessories. Everything else inside the engine will be new six port parts. I will salvage intake manifolds, fuel rails and wiring harnesses from junkyard cars.
Perhaps I am not being clear. It is my intention to build a six port motor. I will use my rotors, rotor housings and accessories. Everything else inside the engine will be new six port parts. I will salvage intake manifolds, fuel rails and wiring harnesses from junkyard cars.
Good to hear you are swapping to 6 port and MT . It will definitely be a lot of work and make you wonder why you didn't just sell the 4 port and buy a 6. But the results should be good . Can't remember if we have discussed how to make it last but whatever you do ........... don't use OEM apex seals !
Thank you, Brett. I have been on the fence, but I did the math last night, and since most of the engine parts are already off (including transmission) it was just too tempting to pass up. In for a penny, in for a pound
I've been boosted on OEM apex seals for over four years 
Lot's goes into a build though, I think Apex seals get a bad rap, 
Lot's goes into a build though, I think Apex seals get a bad rap,
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Oct 12, 2015 at 03:16 PM.
I know this , plus i know of many others that I have tuned that have been ok on OEM as well . All of them have stayed pretty conservative with boost 10 PSI ish max.
Chris is thinking more boost than that ....................
Chris is thinking more boost than that ....................
Yeah, I dunno, most of the builds I have seen with fancy seals seem to grenade much faster than those with stock seals. But that doesn't mean much since what matters most is who is doing the rebuild and determining what should or should not be used, and who is tuning it. He should have had Steve rebuild the engine too.
Yeah, I dunno, most of the builds I have seen with fancy seals seem to grenade much faster than those with stock seals. But that doesn't mean much since what matters most is who is doing the rebuild and determining what should or should not be used, and who is tuning it. He should have had Steve rebuild the engine too.
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I'm not saying they cause them to grenade but they sure as hell are not preventing them from grenading. But like I said, there is a lot that goes into an engine rebuild besides seal choice and even the best built engine isn't worth a **** if it isn't tuned right. I have hit 13psi many times, I don't imagine another 2psi would would make a difference but I'm done experimenting so 10 is my limit so I have to back it down when it gets colder to stay there,
Yeah, I dunno, most of the builds I have seen with fancy seals seem to grenade much faster than those with stock seals. But that doesn't mean much since what matters most is who is doing the rebuild and determining what should or should not be used, and who is tuning it. He should have had Steve rebuild the engine too.
I know I can't get up to your level overnight, but I would certainly like to experience truly big power from a small package (that's what she said!)
"good shape" is subjective. But you are knee deep in **** already with this build so why start being detail oriented now.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Oct 12, 2015 at 04:28 PM.
I had fancy NRS seals and have friends with goopy and RA..... all did not last at all. I'll stick with OEM and my target is 13psi. But that will be on my next engine so only time will tell.
