BigBadChris and the little turbo RX8
10-12-2015, 10:49 AM
#302
Engine has been torn down. Ari said he had never seen an engine like this before. Front rotor was in good shape, just a lot of carbon on the rotor itself. The back rotor was not so good. The oil control rings were worn very heavily, and the side housings were etched from wear. Ari said the rear rotor looked much much worse than 30k miles. I asked about oil injectors, he said that wasn't the issue. Likewise the oil squirter inside the e shaft. The oil pan (with less than 10 miles on both it and the oil!) and the oil were filthy with carbon. Black stains everywhere. I am not sure what would cause that.
He is hesitant to immediately rebuild, as we need to be certain that we know what caused the accelerated wear. I can appreciate his caution, I would hate to build a new motor and be right back in this spot.
The six port vs four port debate continues, likewise the auto vs manual. Ari says he can do the work, but has several questions and concerns. He is of the mind that a four port will respond better to turbocharging, given the longer power stroke. He is also quick to point out that when Mazda introduced the turbo 2, there was a high power turbo four port, and a low power NA six port. Likewise, the 20b is only two intakes per rotor. I cannot argue with those points. Instead I look to the number of successful turbo six ports, and the power numbers they produce.
I will be honest, I have many questions and very few answers. I will continue to research the six port swap, and try to track down the needed parts from local junkyards. I cannot say that I am pleased, considering I started this project the day after Memorial Day, and it is now the middle of October. I am beginning to question if I have the resolve to continue this project. I will of course lose a ton of money, since used turbo kits don't exactly hold their value. Likewise, my engine is currently in twenty pieces, so I am several thousand dollars away from a running and driving car.
Time to dig deep and think the long thoughts.
He is hesitant to immediately rebuild, as we need to be certain that we know what caused the accelerated wear. I can appreciate his caution, I would hate to build a new motor and be right back in this spot.
The six port vs four port debate continues, likewise the auto vs manual. Ari says he can do the work, but has several questions and concerns. He is of the mind that a four port will respond better to turbocharging, given the longer power stroke. He is also quick to point out that when Mazda introduced the turbo 2, there was a high power turbo four port, and a low power NA six port. Likewise, the 20b is only two intakes per rotor. I cannot argue with those points. Instead I look to the number of successful turbo six ports, and the power numbers they produce.
I will be honest, I have many questions and very few answers. I will continue to research the six port swap, and try to track down the needed parts from local junkyards. I cannot say that I am pleased, considering I started this project the day after Memorial Day, and it is now the middle of October. I am beginning to question if I have the resolve to continue this project. I will of course lose a ton of money, since used turbo kits don't exactly hold their value. Likewise, my engine is currently in twenty pieces, so I am several thousand dollars away from a running and driving car.
Time to dig deep and think the long thoughts.
That said, this is a colossal waste of money, but I can't talk as I am on my 4th renesis and daily a 2010 S4.
10-12-2015, 10:59 AM
#303
10-12-2015, 11:33 AM
#305
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
chris, i didnt read all of this thread but are you swapping to a 6 port? if so check out my f/s
10-12-2015, 11:48 AM
#306
Thanks for the advice, guys.
Unfortunately the turbo is already done, new charge piping, whole nine yards. I would hate to go back to stock now.
I figure the parts I need will cost 1500 dollars, including transmission. I can't pass that up.
200, I will check your posting
Unfortunately the turbo is already done, new charge piping, whole nine yards. I would hate to go back to stock now.
I figure the parts I need will cost 1500 dollars, including transmission. I can't pass that up.
200, I will check your posting
10-12-2015, 11:52 AM
#307
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
Thanks for the advice, guys.
Unfortunately the turbo is already done, new charge piping, whole nine yards. I would hate to go back to stock now.
I figure the parts I need will cost 1500 dollars, including transmission. I can't pass that up.
200, I will check your posting
Unfortunately the turbo is already done, new charge piping, whole nine yards. I would hate to go back to stock now.
I figure the parts I need will cost 1500 dollars, including transmission. I can't pass that up.
200, I will check your posting
10-12-2015, 12:40 PM
#310
No I was using a 2005 4 port. That is now in pieces. Ari has brand new six port side housings, and we will retain my rotors, rotor housings and engine accessories. We will replace all seals, use some competition bearings, balance, and do some street porting. I have suggested the RB templates, Ari would prefer to freehand. After that, Steve Kan will work some computer magic.
10-12-2015, 01:37 PM
#311
No I was using a 2005 4 port. That is now in pieces. Ari has brand new six port side housings, and we will retain my rotors, rotor housings and engine accessories. We will replace all seals, use some competition bearings, balance, and do some street porting. I have suggested the RB templates, Ari would prefer to freehand. After that, Steve Kan will work some computer magic.
Also there is a minimal amount of material that can be removed from the 4 port, mainly just smoothing out the edges. Most port work with noticeable gains is done to the APV's in the 6 port.
Again I highly advise you to use a 6 port engine, the wiring will be easier as well. If you run the manual trans ECU. The tuner (steve) will need to spend a considerable amount of time making everything work.
Ari is great with RX7's he has minimal experience with RX8's. Several people now have told you to run the 6port. Do the 6 port.
10-12-2015, 02:23 PM
#312
Good afternoon, Shady crew.
Perhaps I am not being clear. It is my intention to build a six port motor. I will use my rotors, rotor housings and accessories. Everything else inside the engine will be new six port parts. I will salvage intake manifolds, fuel rails and wiring harnesses from junkyard cars.
Perhaps I am not being clear. It is my intention to build a six port motor. I will use my rotors, rotor housings and accessories. Everything else inside the engine will be new six port parts. I will salvage intake manifolds, fuel rails and wiring harnesses from junkyard cars.
10-12-2015, 02:42 PM
#314
Good to hear you are swapping to 6 port and MT . It will definitely be a lot of work and make you wonder why you didn't just sell the 4 port and buy a 6. But the results should be good . Can't remember if we have discussed how to make it last but whatever you do ........... don't use OEM apex seals !
10-12-2015, 03:14 PM
#316
Lot's goes into a build though, I think Apex seals get a bad rap,
10-12-2015, 03:26 PM
#318
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yeah, I dunno, most of the builds I have seen with fancy seals seem to grenade much faster than those with stock seals. But that doesn't mean much since what matters most is who is doing the rebuild and determining what should or should not be used, and who is tuning it. He should have had Steve rebuild the engine too.
10-12-2015, 03:53 PM
#319
Yeah, I dunno, most of the builds I have seen with fancy seals seem to grenade much faster than those with stock seals. But that doesn't mean much since what matters most is who is doing the rebuild and determining what should or should not be used, and who is tuning it. He should have had Steve rebuild the engine too.
.
10-12-2015, 04:09 PM
#320
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I'm not saying they cause them to grenade but they sure as hell are not preventing them from grenading. But like I said, there is a lot that goes into an engine rebuild besides seal choice and even the best built engine isn't worth a **** if it isn't tuned right. I have hit 13psi many times, I don't imagine another 2psi would would make a difference but I'm done experimenting so 10 is my limit so I have to back it down when it gets colder to stay there, 
10-12-2015, 04:15 PM
#321
Yeah, I dunno, most of the builds I have seen with fancy seals seem to grenade much faster than those with stock seals. But that doesn't mean much since what matters most is who is doing the rebuild and determining what should or should not be used, and who is tuning it. He should have had Steve rebuild the engine too.
10-12-2015, 04:23 PM
#323
