Sorry to interupt but on the topic, How important is it to have the rotor's in the correct position? I rebuilt mine and could never find anything on which was front or rear so I used pics to Identify the position, but can't say for sure if it was right or not. Fingers corssed it was at least a 50/50.

 

The Renesis sorts this out on its own, other 13B's do have a TDC to keep in mind when setting their version of the ESS I forget what its called.

Hit up Racing beat for engine balance instructions they will tell you what they need.

 

Thanks to the DIY section. Now I will have urethane filled mounts.

 

Hey guys

So I started to work on the car to prepare for the new parts. Will take pics soon.

As I was taking the rad out to get all the A/C out, I broke the plastic nipple. Cheap POS. I bought a new high flow rad with 2 slim fans.

I was looking at the rad and the A/C condenser covers the whole thing.
Then I had an idea...

My oil coolers fins are pretty beat. I already am in the process on replacing the lines with -10 an. Has anyone replaced the stock coolers with one big cooler and place it where the A/C condenser was? Then make a vent where the old coolers where, to cool down the front brakes.

Then another idea, the fans can be hooked up to push or pull. I was thinking on having the intake side push air out and have the other side pull air in. Try to pull as much air as I can to the exhaust side to cool it down.

Just some thoughts on what I was thinking. I do anything thats BETTER THEN STOCK. lol

 

You and every second person that pulls out the rad....................


People just don't get it - fans are for stationery/slow speed cooling only .
The last thing you want in there is a fan either side , it will actually lessen the effectiveness of the rad at speed.

 

Hmmm, I do remember a really bad *** dude did do a single oil cooler conversion, I think there is a thread about it somewhere.

FYI, the stock over coolers and lines are more than sufficient for a street driven car that is not tracked.

And Brettus is right as well.

 

I was only thinking this to cool the exhaust side of the engine (heat is not our friend). I would still leave the fan switch if it ever reaches that temp to turn them on. I know it wouldn't be that effective but with the dual core rad, I dont think the fans would be running much anyway. But when they do, I would like to cool the engine down too.

Could you help me find that thread? I cant find anything anywhere.

My lines are rusted to ****. How I maintain my car is, if anything brakes, it gets upgraded. And you know as well as I do, it will stabilize the temps better and make it more reliable. Even for a DD I would want that.

Its not that much to do either. You can buy just the upgraded 10 an oil lines for over $400, Or make the exact lines yourself for $100, - the fittings to the cooler. Then buy a full mount cooler for $150.

For $300 you can upgrade your entire oil system. To cheap not to do.

I was also thinking about replacing all the oil metering pump lines with AN. I don't like the idea of hard plastic lines for oil. Only $100-150 to do.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to be doing all this anyway. Still would be nice to see the others that have done it already.

 

Google Fu

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...cooler-185476/

And yes if your stuff needs to be replaced then I agree. But try and use good quality coolers like Setrab, Behr, Long, Fluidyne, etc.

Don't bother on the OMP lines, the factory ones last a long while, making your own only adds complexity and a lack of flexibility. People have used ss ones on FC's and I have heard nothing but bad things.

 

Where did you get your cooler? I looked for a 28" long cooler on Fluidyne and couldnt find anything close. Found one that is 23" but I think that is to small. Best I could find was a 30 row but only a inch or 2 thick and 13" wide.

 

I still have it if you want it. I had to ditch it when I went turbo, there was no room for it and the inter-cooler. I now have a stock drivers side cooler in the factory location and a secondary aftermarket oil cooler mounted against the AC condenser.

I would have gone back to the stock configuration but I have a secondary radiator mounted where the passer side stock oil cooler was. Right now even with the turbo adding heat to the oil I can't get my oil temps much above 215F even when pushing it hard this summer. I am replacing my center mounted second oil cooler with a nice new BEHR oil cooler though just because it is brand spanking new and I scored it on Ebay for 1/4 of what it should have cost.

 

which behr, dimensions?

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/9624679923/
Fits perfectly on the stock rock guard.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/9627906898/

 

Not to sound like a nuub, but what rock guard?

 

Later model RX-8's come with an AC condenser rock guard stock. The one I am using to mount my cooler to is from an 09' R3.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/4630185297/

 

My late 05 came with one. Swapped for racing beat screen though

 

Update on the 8.

Getting ready for the new setup...




Started the port and polish. The port face is still stock size. This is a pre port.




Getting parts in oder. More in the mail and to buy.

 

More parts to the list.

 

Finished up the urethane motor mounts.

 

What a great idea

 

I would like to get some opinions on the subject of porting.

I been reading that it would be a good idea to round the edges so the seals will have a less chance on catching the corners. Something like this but not as extreme.


What do you guys think would be best for N/A? Been seeing alot of different tips and designs with no dyno charts or after results.

I was thinking on making the ports them selfs smooth and polished. As for the port face, keep the stock design with just rounded edges all around.

Just looking for opinions on the topic.

 

opions , opoins , onions or opinions ?

 

LOL stupid spell check didnt get that one. I didnt even see it .

 

Well since no one wants to chime in. This is what I decided.

Clean up all the ports so everything is smooth and polished.

Even the aux intake port will have some polish. Nothing will be touched where the sleeve has contact. Right at the opening under the port face has casting marks were the sleeve does not have contact. This will get ported to the face with a high polish.

The exhuast port will get a 2mm port on the leading egde. Letting it open 2mm sooner. The rest will still have the stock design.

All ports will get a rounded egde. Like the bottom of a can.