You still have a lot to learn

 

i dont agree with all of this but some i do. mostly the part about spraying at any rpm. its unwise to spray below 4200-4500rpm, ask easy1e.

charles r hill is the man when it comes to n02 on a renny and i think he installed wcs kit. i followed that build along with advice from him personaly and info/help from 9krpm. thanks again guys.

i thought at some point wcs did retard some timing.

 

His principals are fine, his applicational theory is flawed.


Considering we all are talking about the same car, and engine.

Tune is the only thing that matters

 

ive been running a zex kit for years and half of it was before i got a cobb+tuned

 

Agreed, NO2 alone you don't need a tune unless your spraying enough to need timing adjusted.

Was more referencing an FI NO2 setup, as was the OP

 

ok sry, i was confused

 

We already talked about turbo and n2o a few pages back.

I was talking about n2o only here.

I would try it on a piston motor but not on my first rotary build. A lot more would be needed to even have that kind of setup with this engine. Even on the low end of 10 psi and a 50 shot would kill this engine.

It is something I always wanted to do but its not piratical for this engine. Maybe it will happen with my next project.

 

I can cut to the chase and tell you that there are no real viable "live" tuning options available for the car. If my opinion is worth anything (having tuned FI RX8's including nitrous) is you should investigate your engine management setup before even purchasing any FI parts and go from there. Currently, there are no aftermarket ignition adjustment modules or add-ons that would supplement a larger nitrous shot. This leaves only engine management as the device which would adjust your timing.

The only engine management that could utilize proper triggers for timing reduction would be a stand-alone unit. Perfectly possible to accomplish but much more expense, more complexity, more room for mistakes resulting in a big boom.

Don't get me wrong, nitrous provides a lot of awesome benefits that FI does not. It is cheap compared to the results it produces and the overall setup/install is pretty straight forward provided you don't make mistakes on the fuel side and burn the car to the ground. BHR offers a couple nice parts to help such as a fuel line adapter and a nice throttle body spacer for nozzles.

Trust me, not adjusting timing for shots between a 55 and a 75 opens you up to problems. My factory engine and being stranded on the side of a California highway before Sevenstock is proof of that. You get yourself into a situation where you have fuel quality issues spraying a 65 or 75 shot and you have a recipe for a blown engine.

The aspect of spraying nitrous to spool up a turbo isn't done on our cars. You need a MASSIVE turbo to justify this use and any setup on an RX8 requiring this simply shows the builder's inability to properly fit the turbo to the engine.

In the end, it comes down to the goals of your build and what you want out of the car. Without the ability to adjust timing on the fly, nitrous provides only a modest increase over the engine's capability. If you're building a drag racing car, this is a great way to go. If you're building a street car dyno queen, this is a great way to go. If you want a track/street car with better drivability, then FI will make you much much happier.

The engine build aspects can happen independent of everything else, but I would seriously consider your method of engine management prior to making any final decisions on power adders.

 

Never said it was a good idea, only that it has been done.

 

As do we all.

I only know what I researched and experienced. Gone through only a few hundred pounds of N2O. I will learn more with a few hundred pounds more.

Thats why I said it depends on the car, engine and tune. I have no clue what the 8 is like. I got it with a busted up engine and drove it around the block. Never even got to see what it does from a dig . Sad I know.

In time I will update with what I feel is safe at what rpm. Its the same thing people were saying about my other Mazda. Boy did I prove them wrong. But with the 8, it just might not like it.


Live tuning is not a must but would be nice to have. A stand alone is something I'm going to stay away from. To much of a hassle for me.

My guess (I'm assuming here) is that CODD lets you run a base map. Have data logging and make a base map off of that data? I have done this with a eprom chip. Have one screen show the data and another screen with the software for the map. I made many different maps to achieve what I wanted. I hope CODD is the same way with out the eprom.

 

jay i think you mean cobb access port. yes thats how its done. you log on the base map than mod the tune through their software and load new map.

shelldude has been tuning with adaptronic and likes it a lot. hes turboed and he was tuning his car while driving to dgrr. lol

 

lol, yes I mean cobb...

This is good. It will be easier then what I have done in the past. The eprom was always a pita. Popping chips in and out.

To the people that were wondering how I'm going to mount the side plate to the engine stand, this is how.

2 head bolts from my last mazda and 2 sockets lol. 1 bolt that is for that plate. Took about 5 minutes to figure out and its not going anywhere.

 

Hey guys,

I'm in the process on figuring out a return line with a AFPR.

I'm seeing these high flow rails. Says it fits 10.5mm to 11mm injectors.
What is the stock injector size in mm? I cant find it anywere.

The only other rail I found was OBX, they dont say the size so I am assuming it fits stock.
Everything will be ran with -6an.

 

KG parts sells a rail, the OBX is the only other rail I know of. The stock injectors are denso, I have no clue on the size. A return style fuel setup is not so easy, search for the topic here, it has been done successfully but it's expensive.

 

^ Thats above my paygrade, I am buying an Audi.

 

I have done custom fuel systems before. It is not cheap but well worth it.

Ill check out the KG rail. Its weird some rails give a size and some dont but none say it will fit stock injectors.

Reason I ask what the stock injector size is...

 

This was on my build list, but after a lot of research I deemed the OE fuel system is more than adequate for any NA engine and a pump and injector upgrade is all that's needed for FI applications. The cost are high and the benefits just are not there.

Invest the money in something else that will actually make a difference.

 

Hey guys,

I been buying parts for the build and still need housings. I was going to do the Cermet coating but cant find a place to do it.

So I'm just going to buy new housings, What is the cheapest place to buy them from?

 

Atkins rotary.

 

Here are some pics of parts I have gotten.

6 puk 6 spring clutch kit.


Longer oil pan bolts


Front and rear links.


10ft of 4g wire for batt relocation.


New black lugs, only had 4 on each side.


Waiting on, in the mail. Will take pics once they come.
New, used front rotor. Look through the thread and you will see what the old one looks like.

Stainless Preformance header. Does anyone know where to buy a block off plate?

Thats it for now. Next will be the housings. If I cant find a place to Cermet coat them in 1 week, I will buy new ones. Wish I could get the coating though.

 

I still don't understand this thread

 

I wouldn't use that wire for a battery relocation. You need a weather proof 2AWG. Why do you need longer oil pan bolts? You can get the block off plate from Racing Beat.

 

All I see are a lot of random add ons, that wouldn't go on the car anyways being purchased when the fact still remains you have a motor to build.

Save the money for the re-rebuild when this is over.

 

So he can crack his housings ?

 

I was thinking the wire was to small. Was actually looking at 0G. The specs said it can handle the amps though. Still might get the 0G and use the 4G for the cap and amp. Not worried about the weather proof as it is not going to see much rain.

The bolts are not that much longer. I'm going to be using a cork style gasket which is kinda thick. Wanted to make sure I have more then a thread or two holding it up. It was cheap enough to give it a try.

Right now money is not the issue. As for the short block, I wanted to get the Cermet Coating for the housings. I'm giving myself a week or two to find a place that will do it. If I cant I will just buy new housings. I needed a new rotor and that is in the mail. Once I get it, I will get all the bearings pressed. And bla bla bla for the rest.

Most of the random parts are parts that I need before the engine goes in anyways. Next I'm going to buy parts for the return system (with connections for N2O), Replace oil lines with AN lines. Found a 5 rib pulley set I wanted to get. I decided to take out the A/C so I need to figure that out too.

I like to have everything I need and then put it all together. But as for the short block, the housings are holding me back. I really want to try that coating.

I'm not that stupid. If they dont fit, they dont fit. I'm not going to force fit them.