Why are you going to use a cork style gasket? RTV works perfectly and you don't have to dick with longer bolts and the chance of royally screwing something up. The gauge of the wire may work but that is junk amp wire, it's not designed to withstand heat or the elements.

 

A stainless header? I thought you were going FI?

 

If you are removing the A/C get speed source pulley's, don't waste your time with any of the other kits.

 

It is just to give it an extra bump in oil lol. Nothing special. It was cheap enough to try. Its really not dicking around or hard to do. If the fit, they fit. If they dont, they dont. I'm even thinking they will fit stock. They are only 2mm longer.

Your right, the wire is to weak. Will just use it for the cap and amp.

 

Earlier in the thread I decided to go N2O.

 

New, used front rotor. Parts are starting to pile up.

 

Did you spec that rotor?

 

I hope the weight matches! Unless you are going to the get the assembly balanced.

 

Some more parts came in.

SS header.


Block off plate. (thanks 9krpmrx8 for where it was)




I didnt spec it but the person I bought it from said it was with in spec. I am using the Atkins rotary master kit. I'm hoping the apex groves are on the low end. Giving more room for their apex seals to expand.

Yes it will get some sort of balance. Not sure how far of a balance I'm going to get. Everything will be new other then rotors and FW. FW is a used exedy 12lb onepeace. Will be getting that resurfaced.

 

Oh. Well in that case it should be good to go then, I hope that person did not spec it using the Brian Cain method.

 

Do not use that gasket. Get an OEM gasket....

 

Is that a Toyosport Header??

 

see above

 

Everything will be getting specked before the rebuild. The rotor looks good with no signs of major wear.

I dont know the Brain Cain method. There is only one way to check specs and that is to use the right tools and techniques. I will be bringing the parts to my old job or have my brother in law (top engineer) bring me the tools.

This is where I worked at as a cnc operator. - Home | Senior Flexonics - GA Precision | Machining Components

I'm very capable on checking every part of this engine.

 

Do the rotor weights match though?

 

The Brian Cain method was a joke. He is/was a respected rotary engine builder (BDC motorsports) but when he came witness the tear down of one of his FUBAR builds (engine ran for 10 seconds) he had no clue what a step wear gauge was when he saw it, and basically said he has own way of checking stuff. Which from what we gathered after watching him struggle thru the tear down was just the eye ball method of checking things to see if they were within spec.

 

lol Thats pretty funny.

I will be using Mazda's spec sheet and follow the exact procedure, other then the apex grove. That will need to be on the low end. Giving more room for the seals to expand as I will be using harden seals.

I haven't checked yet but you have me worried about it now. The rotor is from a 04 front rotor, The exact rotor I needed.

What can be done if weight doesn't match? I do see how on one side of each point has a flat spot on the corner. My guess is this is where you would remove martial on the heavier rotor. Like a nut hair on each corner to keep it balanced?

 

But do the rotor weights match? Is it the right position rotor for your needs? That is kind of important.

 

I don't know if the weight matches. Don't have a scale for that.

Yes it is the right position rotor. Came out of a 04 MT 6 port front rotor. And that is what I needed.

The stock rotor I have, the bearing has been smushed and dont think it could be pressed out. But I dont think the rotor itself is bad. I just didnt want to deal with trying to get this bearing out. Most likly would end up messing it up anyway. There is like 2mm of bearing left. Reason I just got another one.

 

It is vital that the weights match... Unless you intend on getting the rotating assembly balanced.

The weight will be etched into the face of the rotor.

it will say either R or F followed by the weight deisgnation example

FD (Front rotor D weight)

RD (Rear rotor D weight)

You cannot use two R's or two F's... Front stays front R stays rear.

This is vital man...

 

Now this I did not know. That the weight is etched in. I was exactly going to weight it lol.

Now the rotor I just got says SD? Whats with that?

Just took a look, Bad one says SC and the new one says SD. But This shouldnt be a problem if I get it balanced? I was going to get a balance but didnt know how far I should go. Now at this point, Thinking a full engine balance with FW and UDP. Should only coast $500 or so.

But none of them say F (front) or R (rear). Yes I do still know which one went where.

lol I keep editing it. Found the FD, right above the CR camber. Hard to see.

 

This will be on the face of the rotor, just one face at the top of the face near the apex.

 

D is the weight.

It need to match whatever your car had, so if your stock rotor was a C weight you need a C weight to match it or get it balanced.

Also this means that you cant go buy another rotor to match the one you just purchased. it must match your original rotor weight.

 

Just to make it clear.

I have my original rear rotor RC.
Then the new front rotor that is FD.

Now this will be ok ONLY if I get a balance?

When getting balanced, how do they do this? E-shaft? CW? I just dont like the idea on having different rotors and overcoming the difference through the E-shaft.

Remember this is my first rotary build. Dont know if the process is like a piston engine.

Another question is, Witch rotor weights more, C or D? If D weights more, could I shave down the corner to get a perfect weight match and balance?

This is what corners I'm talking about. 2 on each face opposite from each other? Keeping the balanced right.


I do want to do this right. This info I did not find in my research.

 

Do you even have an engine assembly workbook?