tdiddy's turbo thread
At first I tried the screens from the OEM airbox but they are larger than 3.5". So I used some nylon door screen material. When I was at SSX I talked to Jeff about it and he said that was what he was using. I have some screen material here that I can use to make a new MAF pipe if it turns out to be necessary.
Jeff is actually in North Carolina right now doing some stuff....
I would suggest flashing your car back to stock but that isn't an option since you have larger injectors....hmmm
There are all kinds of methods for hunting for a vacuum leak. Soapy water in a misting bottle is the best and cheapest. A professional shop can vent some special UV smoke into your motor (doesn't hurt it) and then the tech will wear goggles and he can see the smoke clearly. That is expensive.
Venting your catch can to atmosphere won't cause a vacuum leak. I run a breather filter without problems. It's just a crankcase vent.
I highly doubt the relationship between the stock O2 sensor and the wastegate is the problem, but if in doubt, just put the stock O2 sensor in the downpipe and see what happens. Can't hurt to try.
I would suggest flashing your car back to stock but that isn't an option since you have larger injectors....hmmm
There are all kinds of methods for hunting for a vacuum leak. Soapy water in a misting bottle is the best and cheapest. A professional shop can vent some special UV smoke into your motor (doesn't hurt it) and then the tech will wear goggles and he can see the smoke clearly. That is expensive.
Venting your catch can to atmosphere won't cause a vacuum leak. I run a breather filter without problems. It's just a crankcase vent.
I highly doubt the relationship between the stock O2 sensor and the wastegate is the problem, but if in doubt, just put the stock O2 sensor in the downpipe and see what happens. Can't hurt to try.
A small fuel leak you mean?
I was thinking; cap the air intake and with the engine off; start testing the connections.
You could do the same thing to the fuel system if you wanted to; would just require some creativity.
I was thinking; cap the air intake and with the engine off; start testing the connections.
You could do the same thing to the fuel system if you wanted to; would just require some creativity.
Not a fuel leak, a leaky injector o-ring or gasket is more what I was thinking.
There is a vacuum line running from the UIM all the way to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel pump. I have been wondering if the leak might not be in there somewhere.
There is a vacuum line running from the UIM all the way to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel pump. I have been wondering if the leak might not be in there somewhere.
I made a cap from ABS plumbing caps with a valve from a tire on one cap...and pump it up with an air hose.....and use soap and water to find the leak.
If it's a big one...you will hear it right away
If it's a big one...you will hear it right away
I have a boost leak tester that I tried to pressurize the UIM with but It wouldn't hold any pressure. I figured it was leaking out the exhaust but I didn't have time to plug off the exhaust to see. Its on my list of things to do.
I was thinking along the lines of potentially getting fresh air across the wideband that the PCM is tuning off of if it is near a connector. I doubt it, but its a good one to rule out early.
If you have 2 sensors in different places and you are seeing the same fluctuations chances are that is out of the question.
Tommy, if you want to try the fogging method thing I have a couple friends that smoke and I have a desk fan, lmk...
I was thinking along the lines of potentially getting fresh air across the wideband that the PCM is tuning off of if it is near a connector. I doubt it, but its a good one to rule out early.
If you have 2 sensors in different places and you are seeing the same fluctuations chances are that is out of the question.
Tommy, if you want to try the fogging method thing I have a couple friends that smoke and I have a desk fan, lmk...
If you have 2 sensors in different places and you are seeing the same fluctuations chances are that is out of the question.
Tommy, if you want to try the fogging method thing I have a couple friends that smoke and I have a desk fan, lmk...

This is one of the few times I wish I knew more smokers.
If your UIM won't hold any pressure, can you try turning the crank with a socket until the rotors line up to seal off the engine?
Oh, one really big thing I found when installing my injectors.
There is that solenoid on the very top of the engine, you know, those two bolts that you need to remove in order to swing it out of the way so you can remove the upper fuel rail? Well it turns out that metal gasket looks like it will go on either way, but if it doesn't. If you installed the gasket in the wrong orientation it can lock that valve open and cause a vacuum leak at the gasket location since the bottom won't be sealed. I'll post a pic in a second.
Oh, one really big thing I found when installing my injectors.
There is that solenoid on the very top of the engine, you know, those two bolts that you need to remove in order to swing it out of the way so you can remove the upper fuel rail? Well it turns out that metal gasket looks like it will go on either way, but if it doesn't. If you installed the gasket in the wrong orientation it can lock that valve open and cause a vacuum leak at the gasket location since the bottom won't be sealed. I'll post a pic in a second.
I am going to try turning the crank until the rotors seal to see If I can pressurize the UIM. If I can't get that to work I am going to remove the midpipe and seal off the exhaust. Hopefully I can get it to pressurize so that I can use the laundry detergent/spray bottle technique.
I'll check the solenoid but I didn't remove the 2 bolts. I removed the locking clip on the solenoid arm.
I'll check the solenoid but I didn't remove the 2 bolts. I removed the locking clip on the solenoid arm.




