no i must have looked over that one based on the what i used to search. i seen one where nycgps posted and it linked to another but never showed some of it. ill look at mm's.

 

well after looking at it turns out its a blown up version of whats on the bhr website i needed. still dont know why i didnt look at that kinda feel like a dumb ***

 

it does indicate to melt something

 

I performed that mod after 2 oem pumps went bad on my car. There is a cap that needs to be melted in place to keep the increased pressure from blowing it off.

 

yeah the relief vent like i thought it was just hard on the bhr website to see which exactly it was and i didnt want to do the wrong thing was all.

 

thanks all this project is coming to a end then off to tuning

 

well the fuel pumped is swapped, injectors i hope and believe are correctand electrical is done unless i add a EGT gauge.

i think im going to redo the scoop and undertray because i dont like the way it sits with the new c west bumper being lower by alittle.

i only can think of one issue i have read about the greddy profec b spec 2. The way the manual states to hook up the solenoid for a external wastegate is incorrect. pressure source to NC port and COM to wastegate (lower port C on synapse wastegate used to open).


It should be hooked up the way described for internal. pressure source to NO port and COM to wastegate (lower port C on synapse wastegate used to open).

This has been stated quite a few places. Any imput from people running this BC

 

i re did the undertray today. heres the picture before i cut the hole for the intercooler. fully intact it was just heavier than stock. instead of the scoop it will now be open to the ground. I need to find something to seal the edges where the intercooler and tray yet. maybe some outdoor foam or rubber strips. Also will either paint or powder coat black when it warms up.

 

I did a first start up today after I resolved a grounding issue on the bhr coils and got the car unflooded. I have a small leak on the greddy oil pan. I should have used rtv instead of the Honda sealent. also the o ring by the electrical connection I will replace when I pull the pan again. now my second issue. I started the motor let it run then shut down all warmed up. I then started let it run with a few revs to 4k(charge pipe unhooked) then shut down with 4k rev. I then walked to the back of the car to find a slight bit of oil in the exhaust pipe. this may have been because the oil pump was turned off on second start up. is there a way to check if the pressure is too high for the feed?

my set up uses the mazmart oil pressure mod. then on the RB sandwich plate using the 3/8" port it tees straight to the pressure sender. from there it drops and runs to the back of the car. it is a 3/8" Id line (alittle tighter than 1/4" ill have to find out exact specs tomorrow). then it goes to a 10 micron inline filter. then a 4an line to the turbo. the turbo has a. 035 restricted fitting. from there it goes to a 10an drain to the smallest RB racing pump. check valve on the return side. then 3/8" to oil pan return.

 

You mean Mazmart oil pressure mod

Okay, so I have given this some thought. From the turbo to the pump is a -10 AN line?

I am thinking your problem would disappear w=once the oil is heated up but also the pump being off could have played a part as well. Not comparable to your setup but I have seen people have the problem with the wrong size return line on the old Turbo Eclipses.

I also read up a bit and this can also happen if the return line is kinked or has trap (think of the pipe under your sink). But you have a pump and it was not on so that is not your issue.

The only way to know for sure would let it idle and warm up completely but if the pressure is actually too much then you could damage the turbo.

I would address the leaks, hook everything up properly and try again with the oil pump on.

 

fixed can't believe i made that mistake

correct 10an turbo drain scavange line per rb racing specs

.
oil was at 126 degrees so not really heated up but it was running for a bit. btw using 5w30 royal purple. i had to use up the royal purple i had here but will be changing to something different next oil change.

lines were not kinked. there is a slight up hill in the line though im not sure if its enough to act as a trap. ill take a picture if i can not find one. im not sure how i would address the return line right now. the pump not on could have been a huge issue or i though about not on long enough after shutdown to pull the oil away.

yeah i have no interest in rebuilding seals in a new turbo. ive also found pressure reducing valves that would be ableto lower it to ~5psi pre restrictor fitting as a last resort

yeah going to redo the oil pan tomorrow when i can get a new o ring. from there i got majestic turbos number i may give them a call if no one else chimes in with any ideas.

again thanks for any help. btw the exhaust was quieter than i thought it would be too.

 

is this a ball bearing or gernal bearing Turbo?

 

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...imization.html
good read!!

 

ball bearing

 

On remote turbo's, I saw it happen if the scanvenger pump was off.

The oil backs up in the line and starts to leak out the seals. What is your oil pressure to the turbo? I would imagine it would have to be very very high to leak past the seals.

If you have your pump off, I would say that was the most likely problem.

 

^ I think Kane is right. Also, I double checked the extra oil pan I have and the sensor does not appear to have an O ring or washer of any kind. If you have the C clip on correctly it should seal up. I would recheck it. Tomorrow I will try and remove the sensor just to be sure nothing is hidden.

 

cool thanks 9k and kane. at the front of the car i seen pressure reaching close to 90psi. i did not want to rev the car too high based on how stuff is set up currently. but i know for sure the turbo is not seeing any where near that pressure through the bullhead of a TEE, 15' of stainless tubing, then the filter, then restrictor at the turbo.

9k the o ring im thinking of (if its there)you would not be able to see unless the sensor plug was out.

 

I talked to majestic turbo today. After talks with their tech we are on agreement that the oil feed and scanvage lines are good though he doesnt like my inline filter. with further talks he seems to think it could have been a oil/fuel mix from the motor. this could very well be due to ignition issues and flooding, then trying to get the car started for the first time. Also another issue could have been the charge pipe opened up and the pressure differental between the turbine and compressor side for a split second. he told me to run the car and do from their and to call back if i had issues.

 

You have oil in the exhaust because your scavenge pump was off.
I had my scavenge pump wired to come on with the ignition on. you always want to run the pump a little before start, to drain the oil that may have gotten into the turbo while the car was off. and same thing after the engine is shut down: turn off the motor, and run the scavenge pump for like 10-20 sec. Remember, the oil pump is still pumping while the engine is turning after you shut it off, and so with the scavenge pump off, the oil was still going in and with nowhere to go, it leaked through the bearings and into your intake/exhaust.

Also don't worry too much about oil cooking in the bearings of the turbo so far back. the temps at which the turbo runs in the back are hundreds of degrees lower.

I had oil in the exhaust all the time when turning my car on and after 30K or whatnot very abusive miles, when I disassembled the turbo it was in excellent condition.

Have fun post vids of her running.

 

thanks for some more insite. im pulling the pan tomorrow and redoing the seal and maybe a o ring. i didnt want to get started today and not finish before school. ill pry start it again thursday and will do a video this time around. if i still get the oil leaking by the seals after shut down ill just throw another check valve in pre turbo. that would be after all option are exhausted

 

well i wanted to get a 6th gauge in may car but i didnt have a spot open. i also did not want a lotek or a pillar set up because those spots are covered with yellow suede and suede does not form to shapes like that. so i got to thinking i want the gauge easy to see because it will be the boost or A/F. I thought on the steering column would be a great place. I did not want to cover any thing in the gauge cluster that was important i.e. speed,Rpm, dash lights. so here is what i came up with. it does cover part of the odometer when you look at it straight on, but you can still look through the steering wheel and see it. just needs a little sanding and paint after it dries

FRONT

FROM DRIVER SIDE

FROM PASSANGER SIDE

 

Awesome pod dude. I am glad majestic Turbo was helpful, the service there has always been top notch.

 

These are nice .... they come with single gauges too!
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...od-for-the-Rx8

 

^yeah I have one here but the evo-r Micky mouse pod covers it. it will be up for sale soon. I needed another option. so custom it was.

 

heres the final of the gauge pod. now im waiting for 2 more gauges to some in from prosport. ill have to wire them in and drill and tap the exhaust for the egt gauge. after that again for start up and hopefully no problems.