rear mount turbo project
09-19-2010, 08:05 PM
#26
this weeked i completed the wastegate piping to the driver exhaust tip, put the intake filter and bend on, started the first bends and long run of charge pipe to the front of the car (no pictures of bends just pipe laying in spot). Im torn inbetween 3 turbos. basically similar but i need info from a non salesmen source to put one over the top to buy all will have .63 a/r exhaust housing with t3 inlet 4 bolt 3" outlet and a 4" inlet 2.5" outlet compressor
-Turbonetics 62-1
stage 5 62mm turbine wheel oil cooled ceramic ball bearing on compressor side
(will save running coolent lines)
-garrett dual ball bearing gt35r
(most expensive)
-percision 6152
-Turbonetics 62-1
stage 5 62mm turbine wheel oil cooled ceramic ball bearing on compressor side
(will save running coolent lines)
-garrett dual ball bearing gt35r
(most expensive)
-percision 6152
09-20-2010, 11:24 PM
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Canada, UAE, Philippines.
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
think you need it to be 60ish/50-60ish to bring your spool time down to what you want.
like the 60-1 or gt30 area.
by the way i did the exact same mounting and return pipe.
what did you do when you hit the subframe/oilpan?
i wanted to go up beside the oilpan but i have the raceroots on on and lost the space.
wish my pipe work looked as good as yours. i did the header, midpipe, the 3 glaspacks,
but i had an idiot indian bender do the radius to the turbo and the exhaust tip. it looks horrible
but its under the car so i dont care. when i find someone who has a professional shop ill get it all rebent with stainless.
as for cooling lines i dont think its neccesary for you. the oil should be efficient.
my cheap *** turbo isnt overheated at all. however im not sure if ballbearings require it.
my suggestion try to find one that doesnt require coolant.
secondly i guess you are going blow through? because you can just extand the maf to the back and put it there like i did.
except you need 6 inch front and rear of the maf and some screens.
not sure how you plan to plumb that but in my case i went single exhaust and my intake is at the driver side exahust port
(not exposed and the whole will be fibered closed or nicely screened)
like the 60-1 or gt30 area.
by the way i did the exact same mounting and return pipe.
what did you do when you hit the subframe/oilpan?
i wanted to go up beside the oilpan but i have the raceroots on on and lost the space.
wish my pipe work looked as good as yours. i did the header, midpipe, the 3 glaspacks,
but i had an idiot indian bender do the radius to the turbo and the exhaust tip. it looks horrible
but its under the car so i dont care. when i find someone who has a professional shop ill get it all rebent with stainless.
as for cooling lines i dont think its neccesary for you. the oil should be efficient.
my cheap *** turbo isnt overheated at all. however im not sure if ballbearings require it.
my suggestion try to find one that doesnt require coolant.
secondly i guess you are going blow through? because you can just extand the maf to the back and put it there like i did.
except you need 6 inch front and rear of the maf and some screens.
not sure how you plan to plumb that but in my case i went single exhaust and my intake is at the driver side exahust port
(not exposed and the whole will be fibered closed or nicely screened)
Last edited by Talic; 09-20-2010 at 11:32 PM.
09-21-2010, 07:31 AM
#28
on a ball bearing turbo you have to run oil lines. they make the oil ports smaller just for lubrication and use the water jacket for cooling.
As for the pipe work i am a pipefitter by trade and had access to mandrel bent fittings and tricks to making fittings with just measurements.
I only have the charge line up to the starter at this point im going to look at the rest today and maybe work on that.
I am going to do a blow through and have the synapse BOV with anti-stall if needed. I thought about rinning the maf to the rear but i want to utalize the aem cai i have now. i used the driver exhaust tip for the wastegate dump and the passanger for turbo exit. I have a carbon ms bumper on the way so covering the hole is not a option for me.
As for the pipe work i am a pipefitter by trade and had access to mandrel bent fittings and tricks to making fittings with just measurements.
I only have the charge line up to the starter at this point im going to look at the rest today and maybe work on that.
I am going to do a blow through and have the synapse BOV with anti-stall if needed. I thought about rinning the maf to the rear but i want to utalize the aem cai i have now. i used the driver exhaust tip for the wastegate dump and the passanger for turbo exit. I have a carbon ms bumper on the way so covering the hole is not a option for me.
09-21-2010, 02:37 PM
#29
worked on some more of the intercooler piping today got the cold side done. I may cut pieces to replace my aem intake though. started the hotside.I have one turn into the engine bay and a plan/path to get through to the other end down near the starter. I expect it to take a few days because of how tight 2 spots are. I also want to make the piece removable infront of the spark plugs incase they need pulled.
09-22-2010, 04:23 AM
#31
thanks. I didnt want to block the radiator so i went with a v mount. I do have a vented hood but no om to relocate the battery so between geting the heat out of the engine bay and no room to do a top mount i picked this set up. Im debating on getting the aluminum gtspec underpanel and cutting bigger loovers in it or having one made similar to get air flow, but we will see down th road. Still sorting out the turbo right now
09-22-2010, 10:24 AM
#32
I have seen some people ditch the window washer tank and put the battery there ... I have also seen someone go for a MUCH smaller window washer tank and put a battery there as well ... something to consider if you dont want to run it all the way to the trunk
09-22-2010, 04:38 PM
#34
yeah the window washer bottle is going along with the air pump in its place the aem water/meth bottle, sohn can, smaller washer bottle, and oilcatch can.
I welded most of the aluminum pipe at school today. for the first time welding aluminum they didnt come out too bad but they will work for sure. I may grind them smooth and powder/ceramic coat. Need to order one more aluminum bend to finish the charge pipe and then weld on BOV flange.
Thanks for the compliments i have come along way with this project quickly. I have a few diagrams for bov and wastegate tubing i need to draw up. I believe it will work and be the easiest, but i want to run it by someone else first.
I welded most of the aluminum pipe at school today. for the first time welding aluminum they didnt come out too bad but they will work for sure. I may grind them smooth and powder/ceramic coat. Need to order one more aluminum bend to finish the charge pipe and then weld on BOV flange.
Thanks for the compliments i have come along way with this project quickly. I have a few diagrams for bov and wastegate tubing i need to draw up. I believe it will work and be the easiest, but i want to run it by someone else first.
09-22-2010, 10:39 PM
#35
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Canada, UAE, Philippines.
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i think you worry too much about the intercooler size and the vmount
it looks awsome though, any plans for a scoop for the downside?
perhaps cut somes holes on the lower plastic and make and aluminum sheet cut some c shapes bend them down to draw air in from underneeth.
as for mine im using a 22x8x2.5 and i cant get the damn thing hot, even with being out here the desert.
i just left a 2 inch gap at the bottom between the plastic and the intercooler. no issues with heat or a/c at 42+C with high humidity
oh by the way you will love the pull after 4k i know i do. its nice feeling to have a rotary that as a bit more torque lol
it looks awsome though, any plans for a scoop for the downside?
perhaps cut somes holes on the lower plastic and make and aluminum sheet cut some c shapes bend them down to draw air in from underneeth.
as for mine im using a 22x8x2.5 and i cant get the damn thing hot, even with being out here the desert.
i just left a 2 inch gap at the bottom between the plastic and the intercooler. no issues with heat or a/c at 42+C with high humidity
oh by the way you will love the pull after 4k i know i do. its nice feeling to have a rotary that as a bit more torque lol
Last edited by Talic; 09-22-2010 at 10:43 PM.
09-22-2010, 10:45 PM
#36
yeah i just called gt spec today and looking at getting their aluminum undertray and making it able to draw through very close to the design you described. as for size mine is 24x12x3 so not too much bigger.
I did find a route on the driver side to run 2.5" pipe. Its very tight and the couplers have to be placed so you can tighten them up.
I did find a route on the driver side to run 2.5" pipe. Its very tight and the couplers have to be placed so you can tighten them up.
09-22-2010, 11:07 PM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Canada, UAE, Philippines.
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sent you a pm, hope you can get back to me about it.
the gtspec looks alright, however my idea was inverted from theirs
theirs brings air out mine was bring air in.
but i guess it will work both ways from the airflow coming from the front now can come out the bottom,
or the other way air from out can now flow through the intercooler then into the rad etc
the gtspec looks alright, however my idea was inverted from theirs
theirs brings air out mine was bring air in.
but i guess it will work both ways from the airflow coming from the front now can come out the bottom,
or the other way air from out can now flow through the intercooler then into the rad etc
09-23-2010, 03:54 PM
#40
pictures updated. well i have about one foot of pipe left to run. Im not sure if i have enough fittting to make the bands work but we will see tomorrow. If not i should have some in a few days. I would have worked longer but my back was hurting from a tattoo sesion last night and it was humid out.
09-23-2010, 08:53 PM
#42
no but it would not be hard to figure them out because of the way i was tought at the pipefitter training school to lay out fittings.
The only issue i have is pricing because some of it was free through work and dont have accounts with the companies to order from, everything is higher end so parts alone are around 5k (estimated).
i have many one of a kind things on my car and enjoy that so i may have a hard time having another like it.
Also the time it would take around the hours i usually work it would be hard to pull off in a timely matter without getting board doing it again.
then to deal with the headache of selling through the site.
Its possible but not likely going to happen sorry
The only issue i have is pricing because some of it was free through work and dont have accounts with the companies to order from, everything is higher end so parts alone are around 5k (estimated).
i have many one of a kind things on my car and enjoy that so i may have a hard time having another like it.
Also the time it would take around the hours i usually work it would be hard to pull off in a timely matter without getting board doing it again.
then to deal with the headache of selling through the site.
Its possible but not likely going to happen sorry
09-24-2010, 02:02 PM
#47
yeah it has gone a bit faster than i expected also, but than again running and fitting pipe has been my job and school training for almost 4 years now.
when i started i was worried about finding a route for 2.5" pipe through the engine bay. I took a look and planning for about 2 hours one day holding a small 3" stub all over to see clearances. then finding place to put couplers so i can get to the t bolt clamps and get the pipe in and out when its one piece. I also was not going to just throw it in there and not have it look clean as possible even in such a tight spot.
next it will be on to plumbing the synapse bov and wastegate, and running the oiling system, and prosport boost/wideband gauges. Just have to look at funds as i did not buy before being laid off.
Im debating on wether to upgrade my fuel pump and rework my injectors. I will be running a aem water/meth injection. talic says hes leaning out at 6k so it makes me wonder.
when i started i was worried about finding a route for 2.5" pipe through the engine bay. I took a look and planning for about 2 hours one day holding a small 3" stub all over to see clearances. then finding place to put couplers so i can get to the t bolt clamps and get the pipe in and out when its one piece. I also was not going to just throw it in there and not have it look clean as possible even in such a tight spot.
next it will be on to plumbing the synapse bov and wastegate, and running the oiling system, and prosport boost/wideband gauges. Just have to look at funds as i did not buy before being laid off.
Im debating on wether to upgrade my fuel pump and rework my injectors. I will be running a aem water/meth injection. talic says hes leaning out at 6k so it makes me wonder.
09-24-2010, 02:38 PM
#49
Why not add a dedicated oil and coolant system in the back driven through electric motors? There should be enough room... That should give you much better control over what oil you want for your turbo and allow you to change the turbo oil at different intervals than the engine oil ... you also wouldn't add heat into the already hot running rotary
09-24-2010, 02:42 PM
#50
the route im taking is using a sandwich plate off a remote mount oil filter. then running stainless tubing to a filter then through the turbo. then a scavenge pump to bring it back to a greddy oil pan. then just tie into the supply and return for the radiator. I could see possibly have a deticated set up but the cost of 2 radiators and pumps would far exceed what i believe i need. Plus i dont know if there is room to cram all that back there with added weight.
Last edited by bumblebeerx8; 09-24-2010 at 02:51 PM.