R compound/hoosiers/change wheels at the track..........Neva!!!

But I just ordered a full set of Enkei RPF1 18X9.5 45mm OffSet and a fresh load of 265/35/18 Toyo Proxes R1R.

I do NOT have any handling problems with my setup. In fact last time at PBIR a corvette lost it while me chasing on turn 2 (FAIL).

The RP01 are 2 lbs lighter than my current Rays wheels and the 265/35/18 are 1 lbs heavier than my current 245/40/18.........I lose one pound and also gain 1 full inch wide while lowering the sidewall .5 inch too.

 

I have the same wheel!!
R1's are about as close as you can get to a R compound lol! Great choice. Also good choice on the size. You can actually go smaller --into the 245 size. The 245 will make the car more reponsive feeling and I really havent been able to tell a difference between a 275 versus the 245 on my DD car in as far as cornering and braking. weight of my wheel and tire is 41lbs ( thats with lugnuts)
Stickier tires will cause the brakes to heat up faster so compress that zone and start doing your neck excersises

Now a splitter for that reason makes a lot of sense.
Have you considered lowering the pressure in the engine bay itself? I placed a small spoiler on the cross member at the end of the undertray to get that low pressure area and my engine bay temps are down some. Every bit counts I guess. You are right in that this engine coolant is warmer. Cams mods must be working.

 

Juan and or Denny, here is Highway8's Aero thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/gi-functinal-aero-parts-front-splitter-underbelly-pan-200996/ , lots of good info in there, he probably has the most experience with DIY aero, and would be a good person to consult,,,

 

Juan, does this mean you are selling the rays????????

 

Rotr8, I dont know.
The first ones should be there in June some time.
Ask Pettit I guess. Its only a few pieces as they are the first batch, so get in early, ahha

 

Yes I will and specially to non flaky people that DO answer PMs.

 

your PM was answered

 

guys-- i think I am going to stop monitoring the intake charge temperture and start monitoring the a/w coolant temperture?
The sensors for any type of gauge that I have found ( within a reasonable cost) just do not react quickly enough to give me any kind of true indication and I dont want to be distracted by useless data? I am thinking also that my gauge/sensor is reacting more toward the temperture of the uim itself rather than the air going through it?
In my Moroso tank there is a fitting site available and that will tell me that the a/w system is working and thats all I really need to know?

A LONG tuning session will start this upcoming w/e. break in will be complete and my stft are at 0.7 My injectors are due back late this week.

This engine absoulutly places greater demands on the water and oil cooling systems. This w/e ambient was 95-96F and interstate oil temps were at 200F, coolant was at 186F.
This was with a/c on and rpms up to 3.4K speed 70-80mph.
I cant wait to get synthetic oil in it.
It doesnt take long at all for the ect to get to 200F during in town driving but the fans do their jobs well.

 

Any updates?

 

Ok--where is yall's IAT located?
OD

 

I have the OE OBD II sensor and an analog CAMP 2 sensor after the intercooler in my upper intake manifold I think. (or lower intake manifold) I can never remember which one is boost and which is temp.....

 

question is, as I am starting to dive into beginner tuning, does our iat need to be post blower as it was with the int x?
Some good folks have told me that the iat does have an influence on the timing tables and thats a very important area that we shouldnt ignor?
Especially those of us that track and will see the higher charge temps.
It does get complicated
So no pettit guy has a pcm dedicated temp sensor post blower?
Moon are you there--has Cam spoke of this? He may have an algorythem built into the flash?
I dont want to bother him about this until I gather all the info I can.

 

Na, no post blower sensor. Id like to to see some kinda sensor for that myself, just incase your IC pump goes. If I remember correctly the airflow and temp sensor cant be seperated and have the MAF work correctly, we tried.

 

The under-arm of the Pettit upper intake, the bigger pipe thread hole there, the sensor is in the split of the airstream, I am also now using a single methanol nozzle, using "the devil's own" #5 nozzle 5 GPH (315ml/min) and a 90 degree fitting.

I get very fast AIT temp drops when the methanol hits the intake, and yes I have the "full on" setting of the Snow injection brain to not to let the 315ml nozzle go full on.
It is awesome watching the IAT go down as fast as the boost goes up.

 

Don't forget that, as soon as you turn on the methanol, you are no longer actually sampling the temperature of the intake air.

That is incorrect.

You failed.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-iat-sensor-turbo-164751/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-engine-tuning-forum-63/iat-placement-pull-through-system-217147/

 

Thanks guys, I agree that this is something we may want to look at?
Now Corkie Bell has said at our power level and doing exhaust based tuning it would probably be Ok for most, but for track use a sensor would be a wise thing to do.
I personnaly think that a post blower iat is needed? Not so much for the a/f's as for the timing.
Water methanol is a great thing for us ,used appropiatly, but to tell the truth I dont like using it for temp control and I dont like using it all the time. I have several reasons.
Most iat's are too slow in their response to really make a difference, but MM and Brettus has shared that the GM iat is a good threaded faster responding iat to use. It does require a re scaling for its parameters.
Now I am not sure if Cam has developed an algorythem to compensate for the increased iats but I remember him being interested at one point of having post blower temps measured?
Example--yesterday it was 96F ambient here in Middle Ga. Intake air was at 100F, post blower was 142F and thats WITHOUT any boost. I was in traffic with the a/c on, lots of stop and go kind of thing. yes it would cool off once I could get some speed up for a consistant time
but it was still in the low 130's--WITHOUT boost.
I dont like that difference. If I had went into boost at all, the temp sensor I now have, would not have even recorded it correctly due to its lag time.
Funny thing is a/f's never change no matter what the temp is.
I think this has to be fixed on my car before i even attempt boost.

 

Welcome to the world of superchargers. The post-blower temps are always high because the blower is always compressing.
That said, at least the transition isn't big when you open the throttle.

160°F going into the motor is about where you need to worry about charge-temps significantly affecting the detonation threshold (provided you have ignition timing curves that make sense for FI in the first place).

 

True that and now its just a matter of sorting this out.
Nice to hear as i really had not connected that the air will not heat up a great deal more when you first go into boost.
160F? I have never seen that, but that is good to know. I question how fast the sensor can read things so in the pass with the set up I had--i drew the line on boosting at 135F
Boy do I have some tuning work to get done. I am sure I will be posting more about it.
At least my stft's are good at 0.7 ( no boost of course).

 

Yeah thats why I put my extra temp sensor there, for exactly that reason.....

By the way, my after IC temp sesnor usually shows a peak temp of about 10degrees lower than the OBD IAT sensor peak (roughly speaking)

 

It does? How do you do that? You running ice water or something or is that with w/m going?

It is a very wise thing to have a post iat of some sort. I lost the ground to my pump one time and it is surprising how fast that iat can rise and how hot it can get. If I had not had a sensor I would have never known it.
I wish I could find a gauge and sensor that was fast reacting and non heat soaking within a reasonable cost. My old one sensor wire broke and its non repairable. That company went out of business.
I wonder if the GM one could be matched to a gauge?
Meanwhile I just tried to increase my a/w coolers affectivness and I am still driving easy.

You know in thinking about the water meth system and remembering how much of it I normally use during a track w/e ( i have used 4-5 gallons) I am wondering about how much is showing up in the oil? This may be one of the reasons that on my previous engines I had a LOT of the white milky substance? I mean even when you change the oil --all of it is not removed and from a track w/e some w/m dilution may continue to be present?
By the way i only run small nozzles.

Street driving I think it will be Ok without a post blower sensor, but on track with substained boost I really like for that to be there. Tuning would have to be done--of course.
I will check with Cam first---he may have a algo-rythem that he can install? Still there are a lot of variable that cant address and I do admit I have become gun shy
My wife thinks I am crazy as hell. She says "Just get through with it!"
I told her it was like her closet--its never done and always changing.

 

the after intercooler temp is usually hotter than IAT OBD sensor UNTIL things get hot, then the intercooler keeps things chiller than the IAT sensor, by about 10 degrees.

 

do you not have a good cold air supply?
My filter temperture air is only about 5 degress above ambient.

 

now Im getting confused.....

Im reading the air temp from the OBDII sensor (wherever that is) and from my installed CAMP 2 sensor in the upper (or lower) intake manifold.

Where are you getting your ambient temp? and where are you getting the figure to compare it to? 8)

 

Been trying to think of a new mod to support the S/C at the track and get a lil distance on the competition by tossing a few out the window, what do ya think?

 

^ brilliant!