Pettit Super Charger Owners
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,574
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From: Boosted...
Anyway, I decided to move my second ECT sensor from the current location (coolant reservoir intake hose) to the lower radiator hose using an Auto Meter 1-1/4" Radiator Hose Adapter (currently on order). That way I can measure the coolant temperature after the radiator as well as from the OEM sensor.
Also, going to install a RB TYPE II Oil Press & Temp Sensor Adapter (currently on order) to measure the Oil Temps after the coolers instead of from the current location at the oil pan. This will eliminate oil temperature at the oil filter guesstimation.
Also, going to install a RB TYPE II Oil Press & Temp Sensor Adapter (currently on order) to measure the Oil Temps after the coolers instead of from the current location at the oil pan. This will eliminate oil temperature at the oil filter guesstimation.
Londons Yellow Peril
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,340
Likes: 2
From: North London
I think I found part or the reason for my hi temps while road racing.
I noticed that the rear part of the plastic under engine belly pan was sagging in spite of the two oem bolts and two plastic rivets. So bad that the was about an inch between the center part of the plastic and the foam piece that is attached/glued to the bottom part of the radiator. We all know that water and air will take the path of least resistance. I can imagine what was happening while driving at high speed.
So I took a piece of U shape aluminum bar and bolted it across the rear end of the plastic belly pan using the two existing oem bolts. I also ran a zip tide thru the middle of the bottom part of the radiator and thru the center part of the belly pan plastic piece. Now, there is NO sagging at all.
I also increased the aperture of the vent located behind the oil coolers and added a 1/4" mesh material to keep road debris from hitting the back part of the oil coolers.
Next track day June 26 at Sebring.
I noticed that the rear part of the plastic under engine belly pan was sagging in spite of the two oem bolts and two plastic rivets. So bad that the was about an inch between the center part of the plastic and the foam piece that is attached/glued to the bottom part of the radiator. We all know that water and air will take the path of least resistance. I can imagine what was happening while driving at high speed.
So I took a piece of U shape aluminum bar and bolted it across the rear end of the plastic belly pan using the two existing oem bolts. I also ran a zip tide thru the middle of the bottom part of the radiator and thru the center part of the belly pan plastic piece. Now, there is NO sagging at all.
I also increased the aperture of the vent located behind the oil coolers and added a 1/4" mesh material to keep road debris from hitting the back part of the oil coolers.
Next track day June 26 at Sebring.
Juan, do you have a fan on your secondary radiator?
I had to go to a vertical mount on mine with this engine. I dont have a fan on mine. On road/suburban and ambiet over 95F ( been 97-99 here) i can get to 195-200F much quicker than ever before. On interstate I am at 180-185F.
Do I remember correctly that you have two secondary radiators? That small rail one and then the bigger one?
If so I wonder about coolant flow with that much additional plumbing?
Maybe time to consider evans coolant if you are continuing to track in this hot weather?
I had to go to a vertical mount on mine with this engine. I dont have a fan on mine. On road/suburban and ambiet over 95F ( been 97-99 here) i can get to 195-200F much quicker than ever before. On interstate I am at 180-185F.
Do I remember correctly that you have two secondary radiators? That small rail one and then the bigger one?
If so I wonder about coolant flow with that much additional plumbing?
Maybe time to consider evans coolant if you are continuing to track in this hot weather?
Juan, do you have a fan on your secondary radiator?
Yup
Do I remember correctly that you have two secondary radiators? That small rail one and then the bigger one?
Yup
If so I wonder about coolant flow with that much additional plumbing?
It flows
Maybe time to consider evans coolant if you are continuing to track in this hot weather?
Yup
Do I remember correctly that you have two secondary radiators? That small rail one and then the bigger one?
Yup
If so I wonder about coolant flow with that much additional plumbing?
It flows
Maybe time to consider evans coolant if you are continuing to track in this hot weather?
Registered
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,257
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From: Maryland
Making plans to take a vacation to the Florida keys with the old lady before we have the baby. I also have some buisness to take care of in WPB. I think ill leave the 8 with Cam for a week to see if he can put his touch on it. I'm also thinking of letting him do the injector swap and tune her in. I figure if I gotta go why not.
Great and good call.
Have a great relaxing time dude. Hope the little wife/mother is doing ok and I dare you to name yall's baby Zoom-Zoom. Just kidding
Some may think I am chasing Ghosts on this fuel rail cooling and post blower IAT "quest" I am on and thats ok. I probably am. But, I truely think that this may help this kit's solidarily.
With a repositioned IAT you can then install without side affects a true cold air intake, you will not be as dependant on w/m injection, and a better fail safe system will be in place.
Cooling the fuel rail kinda reminds me of the cooling affect that Direct injection can have-- you cant go wrong with it. It may not be a large power benefit but it will help to reduce the chance of detonation. The fuel rail does get to 180F and the fuel stays in the rail for enough time to heat up. With an exhaust based tune the computer will probably compensate for any "mass" change but injecting fuel that is 100F versus 180F has to be better.
Besides yall know I have to have something new to play with.
My undertray spoiler seems to have helped a little with underhood heat--especialy the front part of the engine.
Have a great relaxing time dude. Hope the little wife/mother is doing ok and I dare you to name yall's baby Zoom-Zoom. Just kidding
Some may think I am chasing Ghosts on this fuel rail cooling and post blower IAT "quest" I am on and thats ok. I probably am. But, I truely think that this may help this kit's solidarily.
With a repositioned IAT you can then install without side affects a true cold air intake, you will not be as dependant on w/m injection, and a better fail safe system will be in place.
Cooling the fuel rail kinda reminds me of the cooling affect that Direct injection can have-- you cant go wrong with it. It may not be a large power benefit but it will help to reduce the chance of detonation. The fuel rail does get to 180F and the fuel stays in the rail for enough time to heat up. With an exhaust based tune the computer will probably compensate for any "mass" change but injecting fuel that is 100F versus 180F has to be better.
Besides yall know I have to have something new to play with.
My undertray spoiler seems to have helped a little with underhood heat--especialy the front part of the engine.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,574
Likes: 2
From: Boosted...
Great and good call.
Have a great relaxing time dude. Hope the little wife/mother is doing ok and I dare you to name yall's baby Zoom-Zoom. Just kidding
Some may think I am chasing Ghosts on this fuel rail cooling and post blower IAT "quest" I am on and thats ok. I probably am. But, I truely think that this may help this kit's solidarily.
With a repositioned IAT you can then install without side affects a true cold air intake, you will not be as dependant on w/m injection, and a better fail safe system will be in place.
Cooling the fuel rail kinda reminds me of the cooling affect that Direct injection can have-- you cant go wrong with it. It may not be a large power benefit but it will help to reduce the chance of detonation. The fuel rail does get to 180F and the fuel stays in the rail for enough time to heat up. With an exhaust based tune the computer will probably compensate for any "mass" change but injecting fuel that is 100F versus 180F has to be better.
Besides yall know I have to have something new to play with.
My undertray spoiler seems to have helped a little with underhood heat--especialy the front part of the engine.
Have a great relaxing time dude. Hope the little wife/mother is doing ok and I dare you to name yall's baby Zoom-Zoom. Just kidding
Some may think I am chasing Ghosts on this fuel rail cooling and post blower IAT "quest" I am on and thats ok. I probably am. But, I truely think that this may help this kit's solidarily.
With a repositioned IAT you can then install without side affects a true cold air intake, you will not be as dependant on w/m injection, and a better fail safe system will be in place.
Cooling the fuel rail kinda reminds me of the cooling affect that Direct injection can have-- you cant go wrong with it. It may not be a large power benefit but it will help to reduce the chance of detonation. The fuel rail does get to 180F and the fuel stays in the rail for enough time to heat up. With an exhaust based tune the computer will probably compensate for any "mass" change but injecting fuel that is 100F versus 180F has to be better.
Besides yall know I have to have something new to play with.
My undertray spoiler seems to have helped a little with underhood heat--especialy the front part of the engine.
Moon---no clue. wiring?
Well--nix on the a/w intercooler /fuel rail cooling. If we only had one fuel rail it probably would work. But it ended up to complicated and some smart folks told me it would be of very limited benefit. I will insulate it though.
I am going to try and find something to make phenolic gaskets between the s/c--lim---uim. I think there is a lot of shared heat soak going on?
Found the holey grail of cooler placment for my car this w/e!!
Temps in Ga around the 100F mark.
There is room to mount the oem pettit twin coolers IN FRONT of the crash bar. That way you can have an almost vertical mount directly in front where there is massive airflow. I did drill out the little things in the oem grill too. I had a reduction on the a/w COOLANT temps of 20F by doing this---thats huge!
I also was then able to remount my secondary radiator vertically inbetween those coolers and the oem radiator. Plenty of room inbetween them all and excellant airflow.
82F ambient on my way to work this morning
intercooler coolant temps of 88degrees. in town with a lot of stop and go it got up to only 96F!
ECT dead on 180F Oil at 185F, temps rose while going up a 5 story parking deck (1st gear climb)to ect 192F, a/w intercooler 98F.
On the road I went into boost (only about 2-3 lbs) through the gears and intercooler temps rose of coarse but they cooled right back down as soon as I would back off!
I am happy with this. Very happy.
Well--nix on the a/w intercooler /fuel rail cooling. If we only had one fuel rail it probably would work. But it ended up to complicated and some smart folks told me it would be of very limited benefit. I will insulate it though.
I am going to try and find something to make phenolic gaskets between the s/c--lim---uim. I think there is a lot of shared heat soak going on?
Found the holey grail of cooler placment for my car this w/e!!
Temps in Ga around the 100F mark.
There is room to mount the oem pettit twin coolers IN FRONT of the crash bar. That way you can have an almost vertical mount directly in front where there is massive airflow. I did drill out the little things in the oem grill too. I had a reduction on the a/w COOLANT temps of 20F by doing this---thats huge!
I also was then able to remount my secondary radiator vertically inbetween those coolers and the oem radiator. Plenty of room inbetween them all and excellant airflow.
82F ambient on my way to work this morning
intercooler coolant temps of 88degrees. in town with a lot of stop and go it got up to only 96F!
ECT dead on 180F Oil at 185F, temps rose while going up a 5 story parking deck (1st gear climb)to ect 192F, a/w intercooler 98F.
On the road I went into boost (only about 2-3 lbs) through the gears and intercooler temps rose of coarse but they cooled right back down as soon as I would back off!
I am happy with this. Very happy.
Well--just found out about something concerning the IAT.
It seems that the MAF hot wire is dependant on the IAT in its power requirement to keep its hot wire at a fixed temperature above ambient. So if we dont have the real intake temp present post boost then the maf reading that is sent to the pcm will never be right.
Whereas the a/f's may end up being ok because of the feedback( open loop) , the load tables will never be right and the timing will not be where it is suppose to be?
It seems that the MAF hot wire is dependant on the IAT in its power requirement to keep its hot wire at a fixed temperature above ambient. So if we dont have the real intake temp present post boost then the maf reading that is sent to the pcm will never be right.
Whereas the a/f's may end up being ok because of the feedback( open loop) , the load tables will never be right and the timing will not be where it is suppose to be?
Well--just found out about something concerning the IAT.
It seems that the MAF hot wire is dependant on the IAT in its power requirement to keep its hot wire at a fixed temperature above ambient. So if we dont have the real intake temp present post boost then the maf reading that is sent to the pcm will never be right.
It seems that the MAF hot wire is dependant on the IAT in its power requirement to keep its hot wire at a fixed temperature above ambient. So if we dont have the real intake temp present post boost then the maf reading that is sent to the pcm will never be right.
This is incorrect. What led you to this conclusion?
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,574
Likes: 2
From: Boosted...
Well--just found out about something concerning the IAT.
It seems that the MAF hot wire is dependant on the IAT in its power requirement to keep its hot wire at a fixed temperature above ambient. So if we dont have the real intake temp present post boost then the maf reading that is sent to the pcm will never be right.
Whereas the a/f's may end up being ok because of the feedback( open loop) , the load tables will never be right and the timing will not be where it is suppose to be?
It seems that the MAF hot wire is dependant on the IAT in its power requirement to keep its hot wire at a fixed temperature above ambient. So if we dont have the real intake temp present post boost then the maf reading that is sent to the pcm will never be right.
Whereas the a/f's may end up being ok because of the feedback( open loop) , the load tables will never be right and the timing will not be where it is suppose to be?
LOL, just move the entire MAF to the boost side, put it in the UIM....
I was reading a manual on tuning the maf system I got through Summit Racing.
The way it was explained in the book was that the maf hotwire had to be maintained at a set pont above ambient. One of the IAT's function was to identify the correct ambiet air the maf was being exposed too and adjust that voltage in order to maintain the delta.
My interpretation ? .. if the hotwire is only 5 F degrees above ambient then the air it is exposed too will not affect it in the same way as if it was 10F degrees hotter?
That made sense to me, but this is not correct?
Rote if there wasnt so much turbulance going on, that may be an option!?
I need to stop, I am talking about this on another thread too.
My apologies.
I may just have to leave this stuff to the experts and just check my tires air pressures
The way it was explained in the book was that the maf hotwire had to be maintained at a set pont above ambient. One of the IAT's function was to identify the correct ambiet air the maf was being exposed too and adjust that voltage in order to maintain the delta.
My interpretation ? .. if the hotwire is only 5 F degrees above ambient then the air it is exposed too will not affect it in the same way as if it was 10F degrees hotter?
That made sense to me, but this is not correct?
Rote if there wasnt so much turbulance going on, that may be an option!?
I need to stop, I am talking about this on another thread too.
My apologies.
I may just have to leave this stuff to the experts and just check my tires air pressures
Last edited by olddragger; Jun 8, 2011 at 04:06 PM.
Thread Starter
FI by Pettit-BHR-Cobb AP
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,026
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From: Sin City, Nevada
.................................................. .................
Found the holey grail of cooler placment for my car this w/e!!
Temps in Ga around the 100F mark.
There is room to mount the oem pettit twin coolers IN FRONT of the crash bar. That way you can have an almost vertical mount directly in front where there is massive airflow. I did drill out the little things in the oem grill too. I had a reduction on the a/w COOLANT temps of 20F by doing this---thats huge!
I also was then able to remount my secondary radiator vertically inbetween those coolers and the oem radiator. Plenty of room inbetween them all and excellant airflow.
82F ambient on my way to work this morning
intercooler coolant temps of 88degrees. in town with a lot of stop and go it got up to only 96F!
ECT dead on 180F Oil at 185F, temps rose while going up a 5 story parking deck (1st gear climb)to ect 192F, a/w intercooler 98F.
On the road I went into boost (only about 2-3 lbs) through the gears and intercooler temps rose of coarse but they cooled right back down as soon as I would back off!
I am happy with this. Very happy.
Found the holey grail of cooler placment for my car this w/e!!
Temps in Ga around the 100F mark.
There is room to mount the oem pettit twin coolers IN FRONT of the crash bar. That way you can have an almost vertical mount directly in front where there is massive airflow. I did drill out the little things in the oem grill too. I had a reduction on the a/w COOLANT temps of 20F by doing this---thats huge!
I also was then able to remount my secondary radiator vertically inbetween those coolers and the oem radiator. Plenty of room inbetween them all and excellant airflow.
82F ambient on my way to work this morning
intercooler coolant temps of 88degrees. in town with a lot of stop and go it got up to only 96F!
ECT dead on 180F Oil at 185F, temps rose while going up a 5 story parking deck (1st gear climb)to ect 192F, a/w intercooler 98F.
On the road I went into boost (only about 2-3 lbs) through the gears and intercooler temps rose of coarse but they cooled right back down as soon as I would back off!
I am happy with this. Very happy.
