modified OE injectors: http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=rx8modinject

make sure you have some extra parts on hand: http://injector-rehab.com/shop/RX8-Kit.html

 

Thanks, I just hope the numbers are about the same on the yellows I got. If so im deffinatly in the ballpark. I should be fine with this crank pully, the big one is to be seen.

 

that will be somewhat dependent on your fuel pressure

 

the yellows that Cam sells flow at 550 cc --at oem fuel pressure.



Yesterday ( Mothers day) and day after my daughters prom ( she was Prom Queen!) I was "awarded" a couple hrs to work on my car.
Tried to crank it and its being stubbon. Geting only a hit/couple hits at the time. Ran the battery down and now have it recharging to try again tonight after work.
Its funny, i have never had an engine in this car that was difficult to crank the 1st time. They usually fire right up. Of coarse my battery is 4 years ol but still with 12.5 volts at rest. under load I dont know--it seems to turn the starter ok--but the amps may be down?
But, like for the past year-- there is always SOMETHING.
Retry tonight and if it doesnt fire up--start problem solving.
I have triple checked injector wiringsignal wires)

F primary--light green/red
R primary--light green /black

F P2--blue/black
R p2--white/green

F secondary --dark green/red
R secondary- white /green

I KNOW the coils/sparkplugs are right.
All grounds hooked up
all vacuum lines SECURE (lol)
TB working/maf ok
o2 sensor hooked up correctly
Yes there is gas in the tank! (dont ask)
fuel pump activates
did the pedal dance

x fingers for today.

 

****** sweet, that makes 1030cc of juice.

 

I took the 8 for another oil cooler mod test drive. This time the ambient temps were 92~94, not a single cloud and less than 5 mph winds. It was 5 pm and I imagine that the heat from the asphalt was also pretty high. Drove steady for 10 miles at 75 mph, no A/C and IAT at 124~126. Towards the end of the 10 miles the ECT was 194~196 and the oil temp were basically the same 194~196.

I know that this type of driving did not and will not compare with road racing but I can tell that the oil cooler mod is really working. I will definitely get better results come the 29th at Sebring without risking getting a speeding ticket.

Also, going back to Royal Purple 15w-40. The engine now has just over 2k since rebuilt and two changes of semi-synthetic oil. I drained the oil today and frankly I just don’t like the smell of dinosaur oil at all.

I came across this oil test link today and I’m very impress with the Royal Purple synthetic oil results. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

BTW, I was going to put Redline Synthetic but after reading the oil comparo above I decided to go back to Royal Purple. However, the Redline MT-90 I pour in my tranny worked 100% better than the previous 75w90 Royal Purple http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...etic-oils.html

 

Nice dude. But if you are running a tad below 200 during cruising--I think it is going to heat up on the track?

I have used RP motor oil but according to my oil test it sheared too soon and I lost viscosity.
Every engine is different so it may be ok for yours.

Steve Kan is in town Saturday. I am going to see him

 

Good call, tell steve I said hi and to look me up if he's up this way.

 

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE


Today after changing the oil from semi-dinosaur to full synthetic Royal Purple I took the 8 for another drive. Same route, same temps, SAME EVERYTHING as yesterday to include the time of the day. The only change was the oil (new oil filter too but same as the old one Mazda OEM).

ECT 186~188
Oil Temp 175~177

Basically ECT @ 10 degrees cooler and oil temps @ 18 degrees cooler. Woot???

Just by switching from semi-dino to Royal Purple??? Amazing!!!

This is why is best to change things one item (variable) at a time.

Can't wait till Sebring to really put the oil coolers mod and Royal Purple to the test.

 

now that is more like it! And yes full synthetic will run cooler--i also get about a 10 degree difference in oil temps.

 

i posted some pics on my OD engine thread--yall go over there at look at them.
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305164183



https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305163103

 

hey folks, so quick update on the car. i'm chasing boost leaks and wondered if anyone has seen this before:

http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/9805/8au.mp4

in the smoke test (lower pressure 10-15lbs) there's smoke coming out from between the IC and the blower. They're bolted together and sealed with a black goo (that's hanging out on the inside a bit too) but it's not airtight. Is this how Pettit was building them? Or was this taken apart at some point I wonder?

Anyway, I'll machine the surfaces and seal it up again and hopefully resolve my power issues finally.

 

Huhhh??
Make sure the bolts are good and snug also--it does tighten down kinda funny
yall like my cooler set up?
OD

 

I do like your set up but am wondering what cooler it is that is laying down flat?

 

Thats my secondary radiator.
It looks like it but it is really not flat. The rear part of it is a approx 4 inchs off the belly pan using the bottom a/c condensor mounts to anchor it. I had to build the mounts. The front part of the cooler is about 1 inch off the belly pan.
That is the position that has worked the best for me. The cooler design is the same as the larger a/w coolant cooler with a large open fin design. That allows for excellant airflow through the cooler.
If I mount it vertically and I am at speed ( above 40 mph) it overcools the engine. So to compromise I discovered that this position works best for me.

Notice also how I cut the front support beam. I now can direct cool air directly to the inside the engine bay air filter. Plus that airflow helps to cool the engine bay some.

 

When I first got mine up and running I did the throttlebody cleaner test at every joint, if you notice a change in the way your engine is running you have a leak. I had a few, one on my I/C tank wich was a pinhole in the weld, the other one that worried me was on the rear runner. I had to goop up the gaskets and reassemble. I didn't want to do that but it worked.

 

That could explain your MAF readings a bit

 

yeah i'll report back after it's all sealed up!

 

woot, my car is already to go now with new bits all attached.. stay tuned for some pics..... 8)

 

egi comp1 fuse will blow, either immediately when trying to crank, or after a few minutes of the car idling. One day, I managed to crank and let the car run (including revving above 4k a couple times) for a few minutes. I managed to do that 3 times before the fuse finally blew.

I have 0 experience with wiring harnesses.

 

before it is over they will be calling you "Sparky"
You obviously have a short somewhere.
OD

 

yeah.

 

Pictures or it didn't happen.

 

blower is all sealed up now. maybe tomorrow i can play w it a bit and see how it's running. i'll likely need to adjust the tune again..

 

^nice man!