After stealing everyones ideas and hard work, "Thank you very much" this is what I came up with for cooling her down I hope. The small top cooler is the 3/8 line off the thermostat back to the coolant tank, the lower cooler uses the heater core lines. After opening up the entire grill this should allow plenty of air.

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Nice

 

how do you expect the top cooler to work? there is no where for the air to pass through it, unless you've cut a hole behind it?

 

Actually the small cooler is mounted 1.5 in off the crash bar. Is it full air pass thru? no, will it cool? oh yes, the bar will act as a heat sink and I drilled 4 7/8 holes in it to draw heat off. It is such a small flow thru that hose, if I get 2 degree drop, I win. I had the cooler laying around and it seemed a shame not to use it in any small way. Just to walk up after a healthy run and feel the heat radiating off of it is a good sign. I put the lower cooler to vent out the bottom of the undertray. Putting a cooler in front to pass hot air thru the main radiator is robbing peter to pay paul. So to speak. Us po folk gotta work together.

Like I said, everyones hard work has led me to these ideas, many thanks and more to come from this crowd I'm sure.

 

Bring that top cooler down and trim the top section the nose a little so you can help airflow over the top section. You can also bend the center of that scoop a inch or 2. Warning though, make sure the front doesn't get light at speed. Should work goodthough

 

Thats what I did to my crush bar, excellent idea. You can trim the lower half of the crush bar away entirely

 

I've been thinking about the problems of over cooling and long warmups. Kart shops sell in line thermostats that are slick adjustable and affordable. Look around for billet ones. Im willing to bet that solves those issues.

 

summit racing has an inline thermostat housing. uses a regular thermostat.

 

The kart ones arnt as big hose wise. Wouldn't need any reducer

 

that makes a lot of sense. And it wouldnt take up as much space.
here is a nice 160F one I found.
http://pwcmuscle.com/images/rs1013_50_tk.jpg

 

Started to button up the front bumper and I dinna like the slight weight addition of the cooler would have on those lil screws holding the undertray up, so I did this.
It's an adjustable heavy door stop that has a bolt to hold doors open. Used a 6" peice of aluminum stock under the tray. Frakking rock solid now and it supports the weight, not those lil screws in the bumper.
Necessity is the mother of invention. hehe


[IMG][/IMG]

 

OMG dirty rain drops on the scoop, what will I tell the forum.

 

Ecu just locked up my car like your Denny

 

Oh **** moon--i wouldnt wish that on my worst enemy.
Mine is still not fixed. Dealer says it needs a new computer and after exhaustive tests by me--i think he is right.
I opened the ecu box and it looks pristine. It is going to the dealer again this week--i finally good a used ecm .
I hope that is not your problem .

Galen--dude that looks good--but what has happened to me is that the undertray is going to hit something sooner or later. If you have something rigid holding it it is going to bend. You have to make something that will give going upward but will not go down.
I used a buckle --kinda like racers use for their front air dams--it will compress but it will not extend.
Thats a neat set up.
OD

 

good point OD.

Did anyone have any thoughts about the battery relocate / engine bay temps.

I am attempting to make mine happen this week, prior to a track day at Snetterton..
I just ordered a battery box for the boot (trunk!)....

 

So, what have I been missing? I'm almost able to get back under the car and put the trans and diff braces on and replace the 02 sensors. How's home life, Moon? Denny, you still you still using Experimental Strength 'Just for Men'?

 

Wess, were the he'll have you been? Im sitting at the dealer waiting to hear if my ECU is bricked.

 

What's this with the ECU's? Defective?

where have I been? Look at my avatar. Better yet, here: http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/g...vatarsmall.jpg

 

GAAH One step forward, two steps back.
Unless you have full contact racing down in your neck of the woods.

 

It was my bad, 1 coil fell into the belt because my dumb *** forgot to put the nut on. Im scratching my head cause the guy said the halo was fried from that but it happened to be broken in 2. The ecu was locked though. Hmm on the halo.

 

artificial discs? or vertebrae?

 

He's been hitting on nurses, lol.

Ok, still bugging me. Did the dealer mechanic break my ignition halo in half because he used a screwdriver to try and pry it off or can low power coil wire short have acualy caused it to fail?

 

low power coil wire will not cause a halo to fail--no damn way.
Thats why we have fuses etc.
OD

 

He did say a fuse was blown but I think he might have thought it was the halo and after prying with a screwdriver broke it not wanting to admit he fucked up. Im going in tommorow to fix the wire he wanted to charge me 2.5 hours to fix, ill bring it up.

 

Ok, would doing an improper reset procedure fry a ignition halo? I seen the mechanic disconnect the battery with the key on then reconnecting it with the key still on.